Off the Map with Italy's Best Truffle Hunter

Turns out there's nothing all that luxurious about a real white truffle hunt. Three hours before sunrise, I was standing on a pitch-dark street corner in a tiny village in central Italy, and I was freaking out. I'd been in Emilia-Romagna for a week, sampling cheese, drinking wine, and drooling over slices of exquisite salumi. Because it was October, always hovering on the edge of these experiences…