A Late-Spring Tuscan Evening

There&rsquo;s a particular kind of dinner that isn&rsquo;t about the food, exactly: it&rsquo;s about deciding the evening is going to be nice and then making it true, one pan at a time. This was one of those. Dinner for two, prepared with love, eaten at the counter by candlelight while the garden&rsquo;s first real tomatoes finally earned their keep. The reviews were rave. The wine, I&rsquo;ll…