Why catarratto is the Quincy Jones of white wine grapes

It is often the key secret ingredient in a lot of white wines, but the unsung hero of Sicily’s vineyards is taking its place in the sun Depending on where you buy and drink wine, catarratto will be very familiar or very obscure. There was a time in the 2010s when I’d have put good money on it being the house white in half of Hackney’s restaurants, and if you’ve ever picked up a sub-£15 natural…