This Landlocked Country Has a Navy, and the Reason Will Surprise You

Bolivia’s unlikely maritime force is a powerful symbol of loss, pride, and national identity.On a cool November morning, deep-blue waters stretched in front of me, while pillowy white clouds drifted across the sky. As we hiked up on the vehicle-free Isla del Sol along Lake Titicaca’s shoreline, passing fields of potatoes and wild herbs, local women selling handwoven ponchos and posing fluffy…