The happiest times for me in the last few months have been the times when I’ve been burdened with the least stuff. I wrote about this in “Spending More to Own Less” back in February and my mind hasn’t changed in the slightest. The only thing that’s changed is the weather.
As I packed for a two day shoot in Minnesota - on the tail of a two day shoot in South Carolina, I felt a deep sense of satisfaction watching my suitcase fill up.
Usually running out of space in the suitcase leads to a sense of impending dread, but not when you’re packing like a GODDAMN GENIUS.
Rules
If you want to build the perfect travel capsule, you have to think a little conservatively. You’ll need core pieces that seamlessly blend together into a handful of versatile, banger fits. You won’t win any fashion awards or get street-styled, but you’ll be presentable, handsome, and if you’re in a small town; on the receiving end of that all-time best compliment, “Are you famous?”
You must also account for the activities you have planned, the climate, etc etc. For the purposes of this article, we’ll assume you’re someplace at least a little bit hot and you’re mainly walking around and having good meals and stuff. (If you’re bungee jumping or something, maybe read someone else’s substack.)
The Boring Stuff
Let’s chip away the boring stuff first. That first step to packing can be the hardest, so eliminate this bit and you’re off to the races. Underwear, socks, and tees.
I’m partial to the Ralph Lauren boxer briefs when traveling, they’re a little tech-y and sporty and super comfortable. There’s an orderly feeling to having matching pieces.
As for socks, I mainly have Uniqlo socks (best deal ever) for wear with loafers and boots, although I like to have one or two nice pairs of Anonymousism textured or retro sporty socks, because they also work really well in case you’re doing shorts at some point.
Tees: you know I have a predilection for fancy tees. Merz B. Schwanen will be represented, as will Pool House New York, but for the most part, I’ll throw in various vintage white and graphic tees to serve as the base. A pack of tanks is a must!
A pair of Todd Snyder boxers can be nice for sleeping in as well. They look cute, feel great, and can be a back-up pair if you run through the others. Sweatshorts are great for lounging in hotel AC.
The Leather Dilemma
The most crucial part of packing is choosing your belt. Whether you go black or brown on the belt will dictate which color leather shoes you bring.
The choice of black or brown accents will dictate the rest of the colors you bring. Start here and work your way outward.
They’re not boring, they’re versatile. (Keep in mind the holy trinity of menswear colors: blues, olives, and ecru.)
Since learning from a menswear luminary to always pack a cashmere sweater, I’ve been sure to bring my navy blue EOT v-neck sweater on every trip. In hot weather travel, it’ll mainly only be used on the plane, but it can layer into just about any outfit, just in case. And the best part, if you only wear it on the flight there and back, it takes up much less space in the suitcase than your favorite hoodie.
(Honorable mention - Todd Snyder cotton v-neck sweater - amazing fit.)
Again, this depends highly on your destination, but it’s nice to have something to wear in case of a light shower or if things cool off.
A vintage Polo Ralph Lauren Harrington jacket is just the ticket. Light cotton, roomy, not too long - these are abundant secondhand (and still sold new). There are so many colors on the market, but ideally pick one that pairs (just in case) with your sweater. A cashmere and cotton layer should be more than enough.
Want something a little sportier? A Baracuta Jacket is also iconic. The G-9 is the classic silhouette and has that Steve Mcqueen factor going. Also available in a ton of colors, pick something neutral - khaki, olive, or navy blue - again, depending on your sweater. The G-4 also looks good, depends on your preference.
Anticipating a bit more weather? The Barbour Transport is a great addition to the team. The cropped fit works with most bottoms and packs down surprisingly small. Cuts the wind and obviously, the rain.
Denim jackets are obviously always your friend. My go-to is a Lee rider jacket, but my collab denim Shirt-Jac with Uomo Copenhagen is also ideal for this - especially as it can do double duty as a shirt for dinner one evening.
Assuming you’re not vacationing on the surface of the sun, you probably have room for at least two long pants. (Ideally one pair is comfy enough to wear on the flight.)
Merz B Schwanen is known primarily for their tees, but I’ve been very impressed by their five-pocket twill pants. They look like jeans, but are substantially lighter, and have a great wide-all-over fit that would theoretically work in-flight. The ecru version would pair nicely with everything so far mentioned.
Uomo Cotton Trousers - It was super important to me to have more cotton options this go with the collab. The Olive gray twill has a surprisingly interesting texture - and with its generous pleats - feels Armani coded in the right way. Works well with both black and brown, depending on which direction you lean, and can be dressed up with a collared shirt or worn casually
Light wash vintage Levi’s. Some of you freaks (me) might be tempted to bring your raw denim project with you on vacation, but don’t. Not only will the weather probably be unsuitable, but the dark indigo tone is actually harder for color-pairings. The washed out look, be it trim 501s or roomy 555s, will go better with other shades of blue (and also just about anything).
“What about shorts,” one of you is whining. Okay. Unless I’m in the tropics, shorts are a last resort. Inseam needs vary depending on your locale, but around 5-7” is a good place to be. Something dressier with pleats is best for nicer Euro travel. Copious pockets is a must for long days on your feet. And maybe one nylon option if things get bleak. (All should pair with your shirting options ideally.
Vintage BSA shorts - I’ve sung their praises online, but they’re really so good. With both belt loops and an elasticated waist they’re very handy. They do have some poly in the blend, but that’s typical of workwear styles from the period.
Uomo Cotton Shorts - these are my platonic ideal of a Euro summer travel short. They come long, but I find my ideal inseam is around seven inches. Big and pleated, there are three cotton versions and one linen.
Fuck Off It’s Hot Shorts - we all hit our breaking point. I’ll be in Italy soon and the heatwave is crazy there right now. Patagonia Baggies, threadbare jorts, nylon Gramiccis - you probably already have your fave. Bring just in case.
This is always the hardest part and hinges entirely on where you’ll be and what you’ll be doing. (Remember to coordinate with whichever leather choice you made.)
Lugged boat shoe or camp moc. The greatest hack in summer footwear. Boat shoe cues make it feel summery, sole gives it tread, and you can pick how formal they read depending on leather choice. Timberland makes a great one and JM Weston makes a really great one. Kleman now offers a similar style.
Summer loafer. Try something a little different, a deconstructed Venetian Loafer from Morjas or the suede traveler loafer from Grant Stone. Ideally one you can put some serious steps in - nothing too narrow or rigid. ( I don’t like loafers with shorts, but you do you.)
Canvas sneaker. Big canvas is pushing hard this summer for you to get back into the oldest form of sneaker. Sperry is reviving its plimsoll styles and Chuck 70s are just as good as ever. Great because they can squish down pretty small in your suitcase and get better the more you beat em up.
Sandal? I hate sandals, but sometimes we have to make peace with our enemies in the face of overwhelming odds. No chance I’d wear a fisherman sandal in LA, but in Italy? The fisherman sandal from Vinny’s is the best I’ve seen. And there’s always the Chamula huaraches - I feel like I was early on this wave, for the record.
This is the most important part of the equation. A rotation of breezy, flow-y shirts you can wear with a tank and any of your pants rotation. This one is tricky, but we can figure it out together.
I’m a sucker for vintage. Where else can you get that big-all-over fit just right? But when you do this, you NEED to keep an eye out for materials. Any polyester in a shirt’s blend will make you feel like you’re in a microwave when things get hot. Cotton, linen, bamboo, tencel - these are what you want to look for.
Vintage Giorgio Armani - This will be a hunt, but if you’re watching some bad TV and need have a little brain-power to spare, look on ebay. Double check measurements and fabric blends in the fine print and look for fun stripes and versatile colors. Prices range from cheap to exorbitant, but I’m confident you’ll find something.
Vintage RL linen - Ralph Lauren has just about every style and material you can think of. If you want to save some money, check your favorite secondhand sites for something in a style and size of your choosing. Happy hunting.
Gitman Vintage - Gitman is a great American brand with a heavy turnover rate on ebay. Add linen to your search and you’ll find dozens of options in a variety of patterns.
Polos by Polo (USA-made) - I personally have an aversion to polos, but people are obsessed these days. Even the most fashionable among us seem to have joined the polo train. Made in USA options are abundant on ebay and in a variety of weights and colors. The price is right to boot.
Good luck out there and stay cool! Watch the latest Youtube video if you haven’t already.
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