By now you know how the game is played. I wind up with a lot of clothing.
I buy it. It gets gifted. But not all of it is created equal. You may see certain pieces represented on my socials, but this way I can give you a front row seat to which pieces are actually rocking my socks and which are less thrilling.
I cannot tell you how pleased I am to have discovered these two Levi’s references. As a guy with big legs, it’s an endless struggle to find a vintage pair of made-in-USA Levi’s that fit me in the waist and are still roomy enough in the leg to look intentional.
The history is pretty fuzzy on both of these, but my best guess is they’re in the 550 family of roomier cuts. Like the 550, there is a bit of taper in both pairs, but not so much as to be unflattering. The 554 seems to have a higher waist, a bit more taper, and a less interesting denim. The 555, based on my example pair, is a bit more of a mid-rise, less tapered, and has a more classic Levi’s denim texture. Both stack nicely on a pair of loafers.
There are plenty of washed-out pairs that look so much better than modern, faux-distressed jeans that brands sell now. They’re zip-fly, comfy all over, but as always, check your measurements when you buy.
Got my Levi’s 554 on ebay for $27.74
Got my Levi’s 555 on ebay for $36.61
While having my feet measured for an upcoming Youtube episode, I learned I have wide feet. It was great to finally learn this, but also a bit of a problem, because… I have a lot of shoes that are actually a touch too narrow. I started the replacement process with my loafers and found three I really, really like.
When you search for “wide loafers,” you’re going to see some criminally ugly shoes staring back at you.
The Sebago Dan was an exception and looked dead on the money. Classic beef-roll style with a not-too dainty toe, I bought a half size down from my usual narrow size and was very pleased with the result. Kinda crazy that loafers don’t have to hurt.
Sebago Dan $275
If you’re a Paraboot stan or a goodyear-welted stan, it can be easy to be snooty about Kleman. Their stuff isn’t the same quality of construction, but I’ve found them to hold up pretty damn well and be comfy right out of the gate. This isn’t designated as a wide shoe, but I’ve found all Klemans to be friendlier to wider feet.
In person, the upper and the lug sole feel quite balanced and in fact, they resemble a much more expensive cousin: the JM Weston loafer. Still made in France!
I’ve been on the hunt for good suede penny loafers for ages and was recently burned by a pair of Aldens (disappointing quality and shape - I immediately sold them).
As I was mourning their loss, Jeremy Kirkland swooped in. On a recent episode of Blamo! he interviewed Wyatt Gilmore of Grant Stone and I decided to give the brand a chance. Best of all, they have a wide option! I am very pleased by the look and feel of these loafers and with that comfy wide fit, I keep grabbing them as I run out the door.
Traveler Loafer Bourbon Suede $395
Have everything you really already need? Just get some fancy socks.
You probably already have good shorts for summer and worn-in shoes - the only thing that really needs a seasonal refresh is your socks. I like crew socks crumpled down around the ankles. Specifically something in a thick gauge and/or slub yarn. They can run around $40 a pop, so the majority of your sock drawer will probably still be Uniqlo or Nike, but these are just a fun (and worthwhile) treat that adds some joie de vivre to the warmer weather looks.
“Always pack a cashmere sweater and a swimsuit,” a menswear luminary said to another guy while ignoring me. And even though he wasn’t talking to me, his words stuck. I’ve been trying to find my ideal cashmere sweater ever since.
I reached out to my old TikTok compatriot, Ethan Glenn, and he kindly sent me one of his brand's cashmere sweaters. I chose navy and got a size large, although my friend Jon is about the same height as me (if slightly trimmer) and took a size small for a slimmer fit. I like mine large, but if you want it to hit on your waist just right, maybe size down.
The navy goes with everything, it’s a great classic v-neck and it’s just baggy enough to be comfy. Even though I have a million sweaters, it’s the one I keep reaching for.
Every Other Thursday Cashmere Sweater - $234
All I wanted this summer was to find a short I liked as much as the vintage Polo Tyler shorts I’ve recommended in the past. I think I’ve come very close with the Gramicci G-Short. It’s quite rare that I like an elasticated waist on a pair of chino style shorts, but Gramicci makes it work - that cool built-in belt helps. They are a bit long, but you know the deal. You can hem em, chop em, whatever.
But as we’ve discussed before, when you’re really on the go, a longer short can be really nice. I also tried the Ridge short, which has fatigue style pockets, but didn’t like the length of the fly - and also felt the gathered waist didn’t look as good in a lighter color. Swapping those out for a second pair of G-shorts in brown.
G-Short $70
Lee Archives is a bit of a mystery, but the best I can tell - it is the name given to the Japanese licensee of the Lee brand. The most comprehensive and accessible collection of Lee Archives products is at Son of a Stag. Unlike the US and EU premium Lee offerings - these are insanely accurate and dialed in.
The 1950s zip version is the closest thing on the market to the OG jeans that James Dean wore in all his most famous jeans-movies, but everything they make is really cool. The funny thing about hyper-accurate Levi’s repros is they just end up looking kind of bla, but hyper-accurate Lees stand out just enough to differentiate themselves from the sea of Japanese raw denim options.
Maybe it’s those curved pockets and lefthand twill denim, but all these jeans are delightful. They don’t seem to have imminent plans to restock, so I’m not sure when these will come up again. They occasionally surface on resale sites like ebay, but they’re rare.
1952 ‘Riders’ 101Z Regular Straight Jean - $370
Life is about balance. Your wardrobe shouldn’t be all fancy new stuff.
I’d been looking for the perfect worn-in light cotton shirt and found this Gap joint at a flea market for $25. It has the perfect ombre check you see in much fancier modern flannels and very seldom in vintage cotton shirts. (Mainly you see this in wool - at least when it’s true vintage.)
Keep your eyes peeled. Just because it isn’t made in USA or a more established brand doesn’t mean it isn’t worth a try. Just look for good wear and a decent pattern.
Vintage Gap Shirts - ~$16-$30
Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve probably noticed a trend of freaky little sunglasses. This trend feels like it comes to us from the world of dirtbag runners - exemplified in certain Oakley frames that I see online, but never in the real world.
I’d been reticent to engage with the trend until I binged the Pierce Brosnan Bond films and found him consistently sporting freaky little glasses. Turns out classic wardrobe + freaky glasses is a match made in heaven - and that’s where Polo comes in.
To be completely honest, I’ve never been a fan of the Ralph Lauren eyewear until they sent me this model. These hug your face just so and add a pop of fun and character to a classic fit. I love when Ralph Lauren snipes a trend and does it so damn well. I cannot stop wearing them - and my coolest friends keep texting me pics of them copping their own.
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