Why Hospitality Details Matter – Plus 4 Culture Hits I've Booked For Summer

I spent much of yesterday bouncing between events and meetings in London. I even finally saw one of the St James’s Park pelicans proudly strutting through a throng of tourists as I headed back to Victoria. But what’s also stayed with me – aside from the fact that Corner Shop is now selling freshly-pressed watermelon juice – is a series of tiny moments of life-enhancing hospitality…

As I wrote last month, one of my favourite things about the exquisite Hôtel du Couvent in Nice was the way it smelled. Designed by London perfumer Azzi Glasser, the hotel’s three signature scents recreate the smell of an old countryside church (minus the mustiness) to echo the property’s history as a former convent. I’ve used the sunshine-yellow tube of hand cream – which combines vetiver, amber and armoise – countless times since my return and it transports me back to Nice instantly.

I had the same heightened sense of atmosphere the moment I walked into the St Clement in London yesterday. I was there to celebrate the official launch of Café Clement, the hotel’s restaurant and terrace that stretches across the riverside frontage of 180 The Thames. Nick Jones, the founder of Soho House who’s also the man behind this behemoth, nipped over to tell us it’s a restaurant that’s been designed so guests will want to pop in once or twice a week. Among the faultless pastries and an exemplary croque madame (the head chef is a River Cafe alumni), what struck me most about the parts of the hotel I saw was the scent Perfumer H has created just for them. It emanates from the candles in the lobby, the soap and hand lotion in the loos, and from the room spray in the bedrooms (which launch in September, alongside Florence Knight’s new restaurant Lunette). It made me want to stick around.

The bedrooms’ bathrooms take beauty – and generosity – one step further. The vanity cupboards above each sink are filled with products not just to use, but to take home with you – YLW night cream, Akt deodorant balm, Hershesons hair cream... I also loved the communal Laro mouthwash in the public loos, an extra I spotted at Dover Street Counter recently. It takes ‘freshening up’ to another level – especially after a couple of black coffees – and feels classier than chomping a post-breakfast chewing gum.

I can think of plenty of other seemingly small details that made a difference to hotel stays that had already impressed. The mini flower-shaped Cédric Grolet birthday cake that arrived with my morning coffee on a birthday spent at The Berkeley (yes, I ate it in bed). A hot bath that had been run while I was at dinner at Aman-i-Khas in Rajasthan. The ice-cold bottle of homemade lemonade waiting for me – along with my luggage – when I walked into my bedroom at The Rooster on 30ºC Antiparos.

I caught up with travel writer Gina Jackson at Café Clement and we ended up chatting about her brilliant, ‘bratty’ – her word! – recent piece on luxury hotel pet peeves (mine is tiny, starchy dressing gowns). I can already see that St Clement won’t run into any of the issues that plague Gina’s list (even the smallest bedroom category – which isn’t small at all – has a deep bath, a dedicated cupboard to stash two large suitcases, plus a chest at the end of the bed filled with hand weights and stretch bands). There are lots of other things to love. Its downstairs bar Bobbi’s is open until 3am (cc: Late Filing). The bar also hands out branded matchboxes that actually work. That might sound like a niche compliment, but it’s not – I thought ill of a particular expensive London restaurant every time I went to light a candle at home using a match from its branded box and it never caught. I’ve finally chucked them in the bin. But it’s a reminder that sometimes half-arsed details can follow a guest home…

Another place with a crystal ball is Soho Italian newcomer Osteria Vibrato. One of its poured-from-a-height martinis landed on the table the moment my bum hit the chair. Then – after splitting an aged-parmesan risotto and whole dover sole – a plate of amaretto biscuits, just out the oven, arrived before we even knew we wanted them. But the real moment of genius came from Harry, our white-suited, piano-playing waiter/sommelier, when he produced a Tide Pen once he spotted red caponata splashes on my dining companion’s white shorts (for once, I remained mess free). Apparently, the restaurant’s communal stain-removing pen is on hand to take the edge off any in-the-moment drips or spills. Smart.

After a handful of months across India, South Africa, France and Greece, I’m looking forward to spending (most of) the next few months at home. Here are four things I’ve got bookmarked for a happy summer…

Hepworth in Colour, Courtauld

I love Barbara Hepworth and even planned a Yorkshire trip two years ago just so I could visit her dedicated museum in Wakefield (well worth a detour if you’re heading north – pair it with the Yorkshire Sculpture Park for the ultimate art-filled day out). Until 6th September, the Courtauld at Somerset House is hosting an exhibition exploring Hepworth’s use of colour. There are 30 drawings and 20 sculptures on show, but I’m most looking forward to getting up close with the collection of wood and stone creations she carved in the 1940s, with bright blues and yellows painted into hollows and onto curves. The Courtauld always pulls together a great edit of exhibition merch, ceramics and prints in its gift shop, so I’m also slightly fearing for my bank balance.

COURTAULD.AC.UK

Frida: The Making of an Icon, Tate Modern

I’m going to a preview of the forthcoming Frida Kahlo retrospective at Tate Modern next week (it opens on 25th June). Alongside some of her key works, there’ll be segments dedicated to her jewellery, photographs and memorabilia from over the decades. As well as trying to squeeze in a look at Tracey Emin’s A Second Life, I’ll be testing out the excellent-sounding new set lunch created in honour of the exhibition. Designed by Kol’s Santiago Lastra, the three-course Mexican tribute includes heritage tomato ceviche tostada, a short rib tamale and watermelon ice-cream atop crisp buñuelos. Exquisito.

TATE.ORG.UK

Summer at Charleston, Sussex

I feel like this year’s summer events at Charleston have been curated especially for me. Running at Charleston Farmhouse – the colourful former home of painters Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant – from 23rd July to 26th September, the programme includes a talk with Tilda Swinton, a conversation between Nick and Susie Cave, plus a deep dive into Call Me By Your Name between its author André Aciman and the artist Sarah Maxwell. Naturally, I need to go to all three.

CHARLESTON.ORG.UK

James Turrell: As Seen Below, Aarhus

I was meant to be in the Danish city of Aarhus this weekend for the opening of James Turrell’s newest – and biggest in a museum – Skyspace, but life got in the way. I adore Turrell’s works. I’ve seen his Skyspaces and light installations everywhere from Naoshima island in Japan to Pittsburgh (and – incidentally – at Yorkshire Sculpture Park). While I’m sad to be missing the summer solstice-related activations around this weekend’s launch, I know the twilight sessions – where the artwork’s exterior lid will lift, letting the sky’s changing colours dance across the space – will be worth the wait. On that note, I hope everyone enjoys the longest day of the year on Sunday. I’ll be celebrating with a 9.24am swim in Brighton.

AROS.DK

Coming soon on Crisp Packet: June’s Tastemaker, some actual crisps-related content, plus kitchen staples & new ingredients I’m enjoying cooking with right now.