I just went to Cape Town for my third visit, a city that I thought I wouldn’t visit again, in fact, I vowed not to. I know, I know, people are obsessed with Cape Town. Between the beauty of the mountains, coastline and the gorgeous vineyards outside of the city, people simply cannot get enough. It will show up on favorites lists and people often refer to it as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. And it is stunning, and I feel like Rio de Janeiro and Cape Town are twins, should you be looking for another similar landscape. City, mountain, ocean! While I see its beauty, I also see its flaws.
As a visibly black African, I have been on the receiving end of some very shitty treatment in Cape Town, both from white South Africans and non-white. I have been treated rudely more times than I care to recall. That was back in 2017. It was bad enough that I told someone working for the tourism board that I would never come back to Cape Town on my own dime. Beyond my treatment, many of my black South African friends refer to it as the Republic of Cape Town. It is a city that is very clearly geared towards the enjoyment of white South Africans and foreigners, and while everyone mingles together, it is very easy to see the disparities. Black and colored South Africans travel upwards of one to two hours to get to hospitality jobs in the city, they live in surrounding townships and cities that are often hidden to those that don’t care to see the reality.
The remnants of apartheid are crystal clear here and, also, it wasn’t that long ago. To love Cape Town necessitates the erasure of memory, the erasure of the Khoekoe and San people, who were indigenous to the area, that were murdered and had their land stolen for these vineyards to thrive. It necessitates suspending reality to think it place completely normal that you are surrounded by European people, south of the Sahara Desert. I can acknowledge the beauty of Cape Town. The mountains set against the backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean. A bustling waterfront with delicious restaurants, bars and galleries. I love the short drive from the city, through the mountains and into the valley where Stellenbosch and Franschhoek sit. As I sipped on my Cap Classic (sparkling wine) watching the sunset, I was/am conflicted.
While this time was certainly much better than the last, (maybe it’s the blond hair), I still found it difficult to revel in the city given the disparity. And it should be noted, I went for a drink at One&Only, one of the most expensive hotels in the city, and my car door wasn’t opened, nor was I greeted by the two people, in uniform, standing at the front door. Outside of that, I was treated very well by staff in all of the places I went, with people often going above and beyond with the service and kindness.
My experience was markedly different since I last visited so I am glad that I gave it another chance AND it is still a a complicated place for me to visit.
Please note: As this was my third visit to Cape Town, I didn’t do the usual touristy thing, such as Robben Island, hiking table mountain, hanging out with penguins on Boulder beach, etc. If it is your first visit to Cape Town, be sure to add all of that and more to your itinerary.
Lodging: I stayed at the Taj, a “five star” hotel, I recommend it, IF you are looking for a four star hotel, but it does not deliver on the fifth star. The room was spacious and clean. The bed was comfy and the shower was hot and had great water pressure. The gym is small and the food isn’t that good. The breakfast was great and you should eat every other meal outside of any hotel you stay at. The front desk staff was great!! If I reframed my mind that I was staying at a four star hotel it would’ve been fine, but it is not a five star hotel experience, so if you want a four star experience I would recommend it. Location is also great!
You MUST visit Zeitz MOCAA an architectural feat, as it was built inside of old grain silos. The collection and exhibitions require at least two hours of your time and you won’t regret it. Located in V&A, it is easy to make it part of your visit to the waterfront.
One&Only - Located in V&A waterfront, the main bar is great place to grab cocktails and enjoy beautiful views. The cocktails were delicious!
fable - Located in the CBD, the drinks are delicious and inventive, and the burger was truly a standout!
The Bungalow - I went here for drinks and ended up having sushi as well. The cocktail was so good, the sushi was just ok, but it was definitely a vibe on a Sunday afternoon.
12 Apostles - This is a beautiful place for sunset drinks. I didn’t make a reservation, but since I was just one person, the hostess very kindly turned a table for four that had three guests, into a table for the three of them and a table for me! I had a glass of Cap Classique and enjoyed sunset.
With the help of recommendations from Demetria Lucas and logistical planning by Google’s Gemini (my first time ever using AI), I was able to plan a half day trip to Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. The food and wine were specatacular and this is a plug and play list.
I picked my friend up at the airport and we left around 12pm. We arrived at our first stop, Delaire Graff just before 1pm for an outstanding lunch with stunning views. Be sure to make a lunch reservation in the main restaurant. I had the asparagus risotto. So good. No notes. My friend had the fish of the day and it was fresh, moist and perfectly cooked. The bread service came with focaccia and a little muhamara - a Syrian red pepper dip, it was good, but the recipe in my forthcoming cookbook is better! I had a glass of the Sauvignon Blanc, but as we ran out of time, we didn’t do any tastings, or see the full breadth of the art collection, which is recommended. We did have some ice cream that was being sold outside and while I didn’t buy any, I tasted the vanilla bean and it was quite possibly the best vanilla ice cream that I’ve ever tasted.
Next up was Tokara Wine Estate, which was just across the street. It goes without say that every vineyard has great views. I was feeling a bit full so only did a tasting of two wines and the olive oils. I ended up buying two bottles of the 2024 Chardonnay. I love a Chardonnay that is aged in new French Oak. I also enjoyed the lighter oaked Chardonnay.
Next we went about 20 minutes up the road to Klein Goederust, which is one of two fully black owned vineyards in South Africa. The owner’s mother was a farm laborer in the valley and eventually became a wine expert. She was adamant that she would be the last one in her family to be a laborer and that came to fruition, with her son ultimately buying the property in 2019. We did the full tasting which allowed us to taste everything they had on offer: Cap Classique (sparkling), Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Dessert Wine. I enjoyed all of them and left with five bottles: 1 Shiraz, 2 Cap Classique and 2 Chenin Blancs. They are opening villas soon and I’d love to go back and stay. My stomach was feeling funny so I didn’t try any of the food.
We were scheduled to go to Dieu Donne, which was also close, but it was getting late and my stomach was giving out on me.
We ended our day at Mont Rochelle which is Richard Branson’s property. We made it in time to enjoy a beautiful sunset. My friend had more fish, which he enjoyed and I sipped on mint tea hoping my stomach would act right, spoiler alert, it didn’t and I had a horrific night.
All in all, I highly recommend you start a day in the wine valley earlier than we did. I think leaving Cape Town around 9 am is the best time to start and you could easily get five vineyards in without feeling rushed. I honestly could’ve done two days in a row if I was a better planner. If I were to return, I would sleep in the valley.
We hired a driver for $150 USD which was perfect. If you want his info, let me know! Food, wine and tastings are so affordable. I really wish Dakar was as cheap as Cape Town and Johannesburg!
Have you been to Cape Town? Where are you from and what was your experience like? Feel free to share recommendations as well!
Be well. Travel well. Live well. Until next time: catch me if you can!
- Jessica
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