A few months ago, I flew to New Zealand to compete in a TPG Points Battle, where Brian Kelly challenged my colleague Tanner and me to plan the most epic trip using 150,000 Chase Ultimate Rewards points. I spent most of my time in New Zealand on its adventure-packed South Island, where I kayaked in Milford Sound with dolphins, rode an ATV and rappelled down a waterfall outside of Queenstown.
Thankfully, I was able to bookend all that adrenaline-filled activity with a few extra days on the North Island, where my international flights connected in Auckland. I’m glad I extended my trip, because Auckland and its surroundings shouldn’t be treated as a mere stopover.
Here’s how I spent my time in New Zealand’s largest city, plus a few must-experience day trips on the North Island.
Auckland is fairly walkable, especially within its Central Business District. For neighborhoods and destinations farther out, Ubers are easy to find. (And thanks to an exchange rate that favors the American dollar, it’s not that expensive either.)
When Auckland’s new City Rail Link opens within the next month or so, it’ll be much easier to move around the city and its surrounding suburbs. Until then, the bus system is fairly reliable.
As a New Yorker who relies on public transit every day, I found the buses easy to navigate via the AT Mobile app and used Apple Pay to tap on and off at each stop.
After traveling for more than 20 hours from New York, my main goal upon arrival was to get caffeinated. Thankfully, New Zealand has a great coffee scene.
That first morning, I took a long walk through the CBD to Maeve Coffee Roasters, a minimalist coffee shop that roasts its own beans and has an omakase-style bar for multicourse coffee tastings. If you’re ready to venture out of the CBD ASAP and are hungry for a full brunch menu, I also loved the airy warehouse-like space at Ozone Coffee in Grey Lynn. (Get the field mushroom toast served with pickled onion, aged gouda and crème fraîche.)
If it’s your first time in Auckland, essential sightseeing includes learning about New Zealand history at the Auckland Museum, ascending to the top of the Sky Tower and climbing Maungawhau/Mount Eden, a (dormant) volcanic peak with fantastic 360-degree views of the city.
Since this was my second trip to New Zealand, I spent most of my time in Auckland bopping around shops and cafes in the cute neighborhoods just west of the CBD, such as Westmere, Grey Lynn and Ponsonby. Here are a few highlights from each:
Westmere: I took the bus to Westmere mainly for the pastries at BeaBea’s Bakery (get the marmite leek croissant if it’s available!). I ended up wandering down to the Weona Reserve to go birdwatching along the park’s extensive network of boardwalks along the waterfront. I spotted a New Zealand Fantail, a bevy of black swans and a lone white-faced heron.
Grey Lynn: In addition to my aforementioned brunch at Ozone Coffee, I enjoyed wandering the shops on Richmond Street. My favorite was Dalston, which carries a variety of women’s clothing brands, including its own line of New Zealand-made knitwear.
Ponsonby: If you only have one free afternoon to go shopping, spend a few hours on Ponsonby Road, the neighborhood’s main artery. I found great second-hand designer finds at Tatty’s from New Zealand brands like Karen Walker and Kate Sylvester, and cool and colorful dresses at Ruby. If you’re hungry, stop into one of the many restaurants and cafes within Ponsonby Central.
Outside of popping into second-hand stores, coffee shops and bakeries, my other main interests are drinking wine in beautiful outdoor settings and “Lord of the Rings.” (I watch the full trilogy at least once a year.)
Though the world was in peak LOTR mania the first time I went to New Zealand in 2003, the Hobbiton movie set wasn’t yet a fully established tourist attraction. I knew I had to visit this time around.
Since Hobbiton is located about a two-hour drive south of Auckland, and I hadn’t rented a car, I booked a tour through Viator. The all-day tour included transit in a spacious air-conditioned van, pickup and drop-off in the CBD, entrance fees to Hobbiton and the nearby Waitomo Glowworm Caves, snacks and bottled water, plus entertaining and informative commentary from our driver/guide.
While seeing the natural phenomenon of the glow worms light up the cave ceilings in an ethereal blue was impressive, my nerdy heart couldn’t get enough of how beautiful and detailed the Hobbiton sets were. Plus, in 2023, they finally opened up two hobbit holes, so I got to see how tiny hobbit beds are, scan the bookshelves in the library and examine the jars of preserves in the pantry.
OK, on to the “drinking wine in gorgeous outdoor settings” part of my trip. Waiheke Island is just a 40-minute ferry from Auckland and is home to world-renowned wineries. It may be one of the most beautiful places I’ve laid eyes on — and I grew up only an hour from California’s Napa Valley. To avoid drinking and driving, book a food-and-wine tour with Ananda Tours as I did.
We stopped at Mudbrick Vineyard to taste its bright chardonnay and a peppery syrah first, then swung by Allpress Olive Groves for an olive-oil tasting and a lunch of local fish and wood-fired pizza at its relatively new bistro. (Be sure to bring home a bottle or two of wine and olive oil as souvenirs — it’s totally worth checking a bag!) To cap off the afternoon of alfresco dining and drinking, we slurped fresh Te Matuku oysters at Ki Maha restaurant on Onetangi Beach, mere miles from where they were plucked from the sea.
Thankfully, I was able to do all that exploration while keeping my home base in Auckland’s CBD. Most major brands have properties in Auckland, but these are the two hotels where I chose to maximize my points and miles.
How to book: With World of Hyatt points (from 20,000 points per night), or through American Express’ Fine Hotels + Resorts or through The Edit by Chase Travel℠.
Location: Wynard Quarter of the CBD
Why here? World of Hyatt loyalists will get a great deal at this Category 6 property that has spacious rooms, walk-in closets and bathtubs.
How to book: With IHG One Rewards points (from 36,000 points per night), or through American Express’ Fine Hotels + Resorts or The Edit by Chase Travel℠.
Location: CBD directly across from the ferry terminal
Why here? Rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows, and you can’t get closer to the shops and restaurants in the Commercial Bay complex, including Ahi, which serves Michelin-star New Zealand cuisine made with hyperlocal ingredients.
Instead of treating Auckland as a quick layover on your way to and from the South Island, I hope I’ve convinced you to extend your trip to New Zealand and stay awhile. Whether you’re a LOTR fan, a wine connoisseur or simply enjoy wandering charming neighborhoods, there’s so much to experience in this waterfront city.
Let us know in the comments if there are any travel spots you want to hear about next!
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