Welcome to the first-ever Style Toast travel guide, written by Samaya Salamun of Ethereal by Samaya.
Travel is the heart of Ethereal, a collection of beautiful things that come from seeing the world. A recipe from her favorite meal of the trip, a piece from the best boutique she could find, a napkin from the hotel bar that changed her life, or the perfect centerpiece picked up in a flyover destination.
As a luxury travel advisor with plenty of stamps in her passport, I trust her taste and, more importantly, her recommendations.
For our first edition, we’re exploring coastal places that are equal parts opulence and grit.
Bon voyage.
I have been trying to put words around what makes a destination feel “surf luxe.”
It is not necessarily a five-star resort on the beach or a town filled with expensive boutiques. It is more about the balance: a place where surf culture sets the pace, but you can also stay somewhere beautiful, eat very well, & still feel surrounded by nature and local charm.
These are four places where that balance feels natural.
Sumba is probably the dreamiest version of surf luxe. It is much quieter and wilder than Bali, with empty beaches, traditional villages, and horses running along the sand.
A lot of the hotel development here has also been tied to supporting the local community. Claude Graves, for example, founded the Sumba Foundation while developing the resort that would eventually become Nihi, helping fund local projects alongside the growth of tourism on the island.
Nihi Sumba: The hotel Sumba is most known for and really a destination on its own. Surfing, horseback riding, waterfalls, village visits, and the famous spa safari. Dreamy.
Cap Karoso: A more modern option with beautiful design and a big focus on food.
The Sanubari: More private and understated, with villas set along a quiet stretch of beach.
Sumba is not really a restaurant destination. Most meals happen at the hotels, often using local produce and seafood caught nearby. Food is a big part of the stay at Cap Karoso, while Nihi works meals into the day with beach lunches, private dinners, and experiences around the island.
This trip would focus more on Sumba itself: surfing, horseback riding, local villages, ikat weaving, waterfalls, and seeing a part of Indonesia that still feels very untouched.
Nosara is probably the clearest example of surf luxe. The roads around Playa Guiones are still dusty, howler monkeys are your alarm clocks, and the day revolves around the beach, the town, and where you want to watch the sunset.
Silvestre Nosara: Beautiful residences by Playa Guiones. This is a great option if you want more space and the feeling of staying in a house, while still having hotel amenities.
Lagarta Lodge: A little more removed from town, with amazing views over the ocean and the biological reserve.
Tierra Magnifica: Tucked into the hills with some of the best views in Nosara. This one feels quieter and more intimate.
Esh Hotel & Spa: Probably the most design-forward option, with private plunge pools, a spa, and a beautiful restaurant onsite.
The Harmony Hotel: A Nosara classic near Playa Guiones, with garden rooms, yoga classes, a juice bar, and a spa.
La Luna is a classic for sunset. The food is so so, but it is right on the beach and stunning at sunset. Coyol is tucked in the mountains and one I would book for a nicer night, with incredible views and great cocktails. Sunrise Café was one of our favorite breakfast and lunch spots - the Coco Cloud matcha was a group favorite, and Organico (the Erewhon of Costa Rica) is a must for fresh juice & snacks. We ordered sushi from Satori one night and it was so fresh.
Beyond surfing, take a yoga class or sound bath at Bodhi Tree, shop around Guiones, spend the day by the pool, or go horseback riding on the beach. Go without a plan.
Things just feel different when you are in Hawaii. Everything & everyone moves at a different pace.
Hanalei is one of the most stunning places I have ever been. Everything is so green, the mountains sit directly behind the town, and waterfalls appear across them whenever it rains. The town itself is small, with surf shops, cafés, galleries, and food trucks along the main road. A perfect day would include papaya w a lime, coconut water, & poke.
1 Hotel Hanalei Bay: The most known luxury property right in Hanalei. Peaceful & modern - it would be a great choice for anyone wanting the true surfluxe experience.
Rent a house in Hanalei: Probably my pick for a longer trip. Having a kitchen, lanai, and extra space just makes sense for the North Shore.
Bar Acuda is the dinner reservation to make first, and AMA is perfect for ramen on a rainy night. Hanalei Bread Company is an easy breakfast stop, and Wishing Well is always worth it for shave ice or coffee. Welina Terrace at 1 Hotel is also beautiful for sushi and sunset drinks overlooking the bay.
Most days should revolve around Hanalei Bay. Surf, swim, paddleboard, kayak the river, or drive farther toward Hāʻena. The weather changes constantly, so I would not plan too much. Let the day take you! End the day at Hanalei Pier at least once.
Rincón is much more casual than the others, which is part of why I love it. It feels like a real surf town, with small hotels (you won’t find any 5-stars here), villas, food trucks, local bars, and cool beaches.
Rent a villa: Probably the best option if you are going with a group.
The English Rose: Really cool local spot in the mountains. They have a great breakfast place here as well.
Tres Sirenas: A small beachfront inn with only a few rooms and the ocean right in front of you.
Casa Verde: A laid-back surf hotel near Sandy Beach.
The English Rose is a favorite for breakfast in the hills, Jack’s Shack (my favorite) is perfect after surfing, and Carta Buena is an easy stop for juices or lunch. There are also so many small roadside spots and food trucks that you will find just by driving around, which is part of the fun.
María’s and Domes are two of the best-known surf beaches, but beginners should definitely go with an instructor who knows the reefs and currents. There are a few local surf schools you can take lessons with. I always recommend renting a car here and visiting the famous Gozalandia Waterfalls which are only 30-ish minutes away.
All four of these feel completely different, but they have the same thing in common: beautiful places to stay, really good food, and days that still revolve around the ocean and the nature around it.
A huge thank you to Samaya for putting together such a swell assortment. You can find more from Ethereal by Samaya on Instagram, or follow along with her travels on Substack.
Until the next escape.
Stay toasted, xx.
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