TRAVEL TROUBLESHOOT 07

It’s been a while since I did one of these! I’ve been trying to answer as many of your questions in real time in the paid subscriber chat, but wanted to bring some of them here too: a few exchanges we’ve already covered in there that might be useful to others, plus some I haven’t gotten to yet.

So! Let’s get right into it…

Going to Cartagena for the first time with my husband and two other couples. What do I need to know?!

I grew up traveling to Cartagena with my family, so this is a fun one for me. I’d recommend staying in the old city, but make a point of wandering into the Getsemaní neighborhood, a five-to-ten-minute walk outside the old city, which has a grittier, more local energy and is worth the detour if you want to swerve the crowds.

I’ve stayed in many hotels around the old city over the years, but Casa San Augustin is the standout. I’ve saved Amarla Boutique Hotel, Casa Pestagua, and Casa Del Arzobispada for next time I visit. Have lunch at La Cevichería for casual seafood and La Cocina de Pepina in Getsemaní if you want something traditional and delicious. For daytime snacks, seek out the Palenqueras, the women who sell tropical fruits throughout the city, traditionally dressed in bright, layered skirts with baskets of fruit balanced on their heads. Cool down with an artisinal popcicle at La Paleteria. Cocktails at El Barón, dinner at Restaurante Donjuán and La Vitrola (an institution). For shopping, Casa Chiqui is one of my favorite shops in the world, or go buy something from my favorite Colombian designer Silvia Tcherassi. And obviously, you’re in Colombia… go dancing! For that, I recommend Donde Fidel. Also Casa Quiebra-canto in Getsemaní. I think Café Havana has become too touristy by now but it was always a fun time.

The beaches in Cartagena proper aren’t nice. For the kind of beach day you’re dreaming about, take a boat to Barú, a narrow peninsula with calm, clear water, and to the Islas del Rosario, a scattered archipelago with coral reefs and that same dreamy turqoise water. You can book a private boat day with Arrecife Boats or Botegena and they’ll customize the day based on your mood.

You can also spend a couple of nights on the islands, which I recommend. There are more and more hotels developing on Barú, but for now they’re all still pretty elemental, like Hotel Playa Manglares Barú (where I’d personally choose to stay in Barú). I’ve heard about Las Islas and Sabai Beach Hotel, which look nice. And if you prefer a more modern stay, you’ve got Sofitel Barú Calablanca Beach Resort.

I personally love the private island villa experience that the Islas del Rosario are known for, and it’s definitely the way to go if you’re traveling with a group. These villas are located on private islands, giving you exclusive use of the entire property. They are serviced like a luxury hotel, with staff, transportation, and meals all arranged for you. Many of them are super affordable, believe it or not. My favorite, Isla Rosa, (pictured) is sadly no longer operating, but all of these places share the same vibe, I promise! My top choice would be Cala Mambo, which my friend Victoria de la Fuente recently visited. (Anyone planning travel with kids should subscribe to her Substack, Zillion Trillion, and convince her to start a dedicated series on the topic.) Also check out Isla India and Isla Pirata. Keep in mind: many of these places will allow you to rent out the villa just for the day if you wish to return to the city at night. Some places, like Isla Amores, are offering day passes for just 550,000 COP per person, which is ~$145.

The crown jewel of the Islas del Rosario these days is Isla Matamba, an island retreat which takes the same high-design, villa-style island concept seen elsewhere in the archipelago and adapts it into a more flexible hybrid hotel model. Unlike a fully private villa rental, Isla Matamba operates more like a small boutique hotel, where you book by the room and share the island with other guests, while still enjoying a carefully curated, low-capacity experience with communal beachfront spaces. The result is a middle ground between a private island buyout and a traditional resort: intimate, social in a controlled way, and still feeling distinctly exclusive.

Looking for some recommendations for this summer. We want to do two weeks in either Spain or France with a mix of beach + mountain. Ideally very little driving. Were thinking Basque Country or Ile de Ré and then cross the country to the Alps, but not sure where it would be nice in the summer?

Basque Country over Île de Ré, for sure. It already gives you beach and mountains in one place (the Pyrenees are right there), so you’re not just using it as a beach stop before a long haul across the country to the alps. I’d base yourself in San Sebastián for the first week; it’s walkable, the food is incredible, and the nearby villages like Hondarribia are worth a day trip (30 min bus or 25 min uber/taxi). Then for the Alps half, Annecy would be good from there. Pretty lake, great town, some of the best wine and since you want to keep driving minimal, the train connection is straightforward: San Sebastián to Paris, Paris to Annecy. If you want to actually be in the Alps rather than at the foot of them, Chamonix is perfect, and skews more outdoorsy/hiking if that’s what you’re going for. If you’re open to renting a car and doing some driving then there are definitely more options available to you but this would be my route without a car! And it’s a good one !!

Follow up: Would you say Annecy over somewhere like Megeve? I know not 100% accessible by train but a good enough connection.

Mègeve would be amazing! Just not as close (4.5 hour train from Paris) which is why I didn’t mention it, plus if you’re there for more than 2 days, I’d suggest renting a car to get around to places you can’t easily reach from the village. It would be my top choice if that doesn’t bother you! I’d base at Les Fermes de Marie for a million reasons, but mostly for the magical summer table (Wednesday lunch and Friday evenings in the summer months). From the Côte 2000 car park, a one-hour walk along an easy forest path deposits you in the middle of this alpine pasture where a wooden chalet is waiting for you with rosé and a long lunch spread across the terrace that starts with a heavenly buffet then bbq! (Ask the hotel about it when/if you book!)

I’m starting to explore ideas for a 2 week trip in August with our baby that will be about 8 months. I’m thinking Lisbon + Comporta/Troia + Algarve and would love to hear your recommendations. I saw you mention Na Praia but can’t seem to find anything about it otherwise. Would love to know more about that as well.

Suggested reading:
This Hotel is Putting an Under-the-Radar Portugal Region on the Map, VOGUE
8 Days Up, Down, and Around Costa Brava and the Empordà Countryside, The Strategist

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