A few years ago, I was looking to move out of the first Japantown in Saigon. Thao invited me to Pham Viet Chanh neighborhood, promising free views of giraffes (and other tall animals) from the Saigon Zoo across the canal.
These days, if you visit the zoo, you can see a large, dark animal across the canal for free. Pham Viet Chanh has become my home.
The neighborhood has a range of food options - Japanese, Korean, Indian, Mexican, and Vietnamese cuisines. Locals also refer to this place as the second Japanese town of Saigon. Here is a map.
Update: August 2024, places come and go, so the map is not up to date. But the neighbourhood continues to offer good food and drinks and friendly people. One I tried staying in District 2 for a bit, but quickly came back as I missed the wake up coffe at Kha cafe, the friendly banter of the folks at Ward 19 cafe, the late night skewers just before Pham Viet Chanh splits in Alley 80 and my other neighbours.
Mowe has become my new hideout. I could listen to the records all day and watch them go round and round.
When Trang visits, we go to an Indian restaurant. There is a new one one one of the alleys called Mom’s Kitchen. But we didn’t find any Mom, only a young girl with beautiful handwriting. I am tempted to order more food just to see her write more words.
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