There are often interesting new developments related to the brands or watches I have written about. These may include new model releases, follow-up news, or even auction results. Individually, they may not justify a full newsletter. However, bringing the most notable updates together in a single write-up can be both interesting and informative.
So, here it is. We will revisit the original article first, followed by the updates.
Surprising Auction Result for the Giverny “Blue Train”
Original article (July 28, 2025): The Giverny “Blue Train” 36mm Steel Case from Auffret Paris
The Giverny “Blue Train”, a new watch by the Paris-based independent watchmaker Théo Auffret, was announced in April 2025 with little fanfare. There was no coverage from the watch media at the time. After the watch was selected as one of the top 20 semi-finalists in the 2025-26 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, I decided to write a piece featuring this exquisite creation by Théo Auffret.
It is a time-only watch in the traditional French watchmaking style for which Théo is known, including the beautiful and iconic charbonnage finishing. This 36mm model is produced in very small numbers because of the extensive hand-made work involved. At the same time, the small team also needs to focus on other models. The list price was 70,000 euros.
Fast forward to the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction on May 9-10, 2026, where 225 lots were offered for sale. Included in this carefully curated selection was Lot 101, a stainless-steel prototype of the Giverny “Blue Train.” The estimate was CHF 60,000 to CHF 120,000.
By the time the hammer dropped, the winning bid had reached CHF 450,000. Including fees, the total came to CHF 571,500, or about $723,900. This staggering result was nearly nine times the retail price. A portion of the proceeds will go to charity, which was a nice gesture by the seller.
With this remarkable auction result, the creations of Théo Auffret will no doubt become even more sought-after. I had the opportunity to visit Théo Auffret’s old workshop on the outskirts of Paris and meet some of the team members. I am very happy for them, as this result reflects the recognition their hard work has earned from the collecting community.
Lastly, there are gorgeous photos by my friend James (@waitlisted) of a different Giverny “Blue Train” prototype acquired by a lucky collector earlier this year. Take a look here and here.
Vasu’s NYC Worldtimer
1st article (Oct 30, 2024): The RGM Model 25 “Birds of America” - Bespoke Miniature Painting on Mother-of-Pearl
2nd article (March 29, 2025): A Pair of Exquisite American-Themed Watches from RGM
I greatly enjoyed the “Birds of America” project with Mr. Roland Murphy, founder of RGM Watch Company. First, I selected one drawing from the 435 beautiful prints published by John Audubon more than 200 years ago. Roland then worked on the dial design based on this artwork before passing it to Isabelle Villa, a leading miniature painting artist based in France. Isabelle spent two weeks completing the painting on a mother-of-pearl dial under a microscope.
The finished watch took my breath away with its extraordinary level of detail and precision, perfectly capturing Audubon’s original artwork. I received many compliments on this very special piece, truly a work of art on the wrist.
Earlier this month, I attended the 40th birthday party of Vasu, known on Instagram as NYCWatchGuy, whom I had previously met at several watch events. To celebrate this major milestone, Vasu decided to create a métier d’art watch based on his own design. He ultimately chose ANDERSEN Genève to help bring his vision to life: a worldtimer featuring an image of his beloved New York City.
After customizing the city names and finalizing various specifications such as the 24-hour ring made of blue-and-black aventurine, Vasu focused on designing the central image. He wanted something that balanced an Art Deco vibe with a sense of realism. It was not meant to be an exact photograph, as he wanted to capture the New York landmarks he loved, even if they are not physically located together. Using the most advanced design tools available to him, he went through hundreds of iterations.
Once he was finally satisfied with the design, he sent it to ANDERSEN Genève for approval. The artwork then moved to the next stage, where none other than Isabelle Villa was entrusted with recreating Vasu’s image by hand on Tahitian mother-of-pearl.
The project was put on a very tight schedule, almost a mission impossible. Work began in January this year, with a target completion date of May 12. Soon after the start of the birthday party on that date, Pierre-Alexandre, CEO of ANDERSEN Genève, personally delivered the finished birthday watch.
Vasu soon shared an unboxing video, and it was indeed a stunning métier d’art creation. Iconic New York landmarks, including the Empire State Building, One World Trade Center, the Chrysler Building, and the Brooklyn Bridge, were vividly depicted by Isabelle. The sky and water also changed color as the light shifted across the dial. It was a marvelous collaboration between Vasu, Isabelle, and the ANDERSEN Genève team.
On Vasu’s Instagram post announcing the new watch acquisition, Isabelle left a comment: “Quel plaisir de voir l’ouverture et la découverte!”, which translates to “What a pleasure to see such openness and a spirit of discovery!”
The watch-collecting hobby shortens the distance between people. I am very happy that Vasu and I each own a timepiece featuring a miniature painting on mother-of-pearl by the same highly talented artist.
Prolific Tudor Corporate Collaborations
Original article (Jan 9, 2025): Fun and Collectible Watches from Tudor’s Extensive Collaborations with Watch Enthusiast Groups
This write-up has become one of the most-read articles in this newsletter, with Google Search serving as the top traffic source. The Apple collaboration and Google collaboration featured in the article have also performed very well at auction this year, achieving $22,551 and $11,500, respectively.
Tudor now appears to be the leading brand when it comes to collaboration pieces with watch-collecting groups inside major corporations. Unlike some other brands, Tudor allows dial customizations in addition to engravings on the caseback. In Silicon Valley, more employee groups from tech companies such as Netflix, OpenAI, Uber, and Salesforce are following the path established by Meta and Google.
For the latest Meta collaborations with Tudor, there were actually two models included: the Black Bay Chrono with a white “Panda” dial, and the Black Bay 54 with a black dial. The blue Meta logo is prominently displayed on each dial. Here are some photos shared by owners on Instagram.
For additional Tudor collaboration pieces, check out the Instagram account @tudorwatch_limited.
The Elusive Rolex 1908 Beauties
Original Article (August 17, 2025): Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Yellow Gold with White Dial and Settimo Bracelet Reference 52508-0008
After posting this hands-on review of the Rolex 1908 with a yellow gold bracelet nine months ago, I have not seen another example in person. I also do not recall seeing one appear in any watch chat groups.
The same was true for the other ice blue 1908 model with a guilloché dial, at least until recently. Apparently, these pieces are being produced in very limited quantities. On Chrono24, asking prices for both these 1908 models have been consistently above retail.
A watch friend recently received the call for this elusive platinum 1908, which allowed us to see it in person at a meetup. There has always been debate about whether the guilloché dial on this model is executed by hand or by machine.
Upon close examination, the dial looked absolutely stunning and almost too perfect. I guess that the guilloché is produced using traditional rose engine machines, but with computerized controls. In other words, the patterns are still generated by a real rose engine, even if they are not guided entirely by human hands.
I ended up taking many photos of the watch, as I had no idea when I might see another one again, haha.
The Petermann Bédat 1826 LE for The Hour Glass Japan in 36mm
Original Article (October 19, 2025): Petermann Bédat’s Time Only Reference 1825
In October 2025, Gaël and Florian, the founders of Petermann Bédat, embarked on a multi-city tour in the US to unveil their new Reference 1825. This three-hand, time-only 38 mm watch was their third creation, following the Reference 1967 dead-beat seconds watch and the Reference 2941 monopusher split-seconds chronograph. I met them at an event in Palo Alto and had the chance to experience the novelty firsthand in its green dial and rose gold configuration, which led to this article.
On May 22, 2026, the duo traveled to Tokyo to launch a pair of follow-up models to the original 1825, created specifically for The Hour Glass Japan. The new editions are powered by the same caliber 233, but housed in a smaller 36 mm case. One version features a black grand feu enamel dial in a white gold case and is limited to five pieces. The other pairs a white grand feu enamel dial with a rose gold case, also limited to five pieces. This new series carries the reference 1826.
I actually got a preview of these two watches last month in Geneva, and I loved both the appearance and the wrist presence. The 36 mm case size will likely appeal to many watch enthusiasts. The only problem is that there are just 10 pieces in total, and they are available only for the Japanese market.
The Reference 1825 will only be produced for four years. The next 1825 38 mm model after the green dial is expected to feature a blue dial with a platinum case. Will the positive response to the 1826 influence the design of this upcoming edition? We will have to wait and see.
First Auction of Pascal Coyon Series 2
Original Article: Pascal Coyon Chronometer Series 2 in Rose Gold Case
Pascal Coyon is a French independent watchmaker known for his focus on strong chronometric performance and a high level of hand finishing. The deeper I went down the rabbit hole of independent watch collecting, the more I realized how fortunate I was to discover him early and place an order for a Pascal Coyon Series 2.
Collectors love unique pieces and personal customization. However, for many brands, the privilege of creating a unique piece is reserved for VIP clients with extensive purchase histories.
With Pascal Coyon, every watch is made to order and offers opportunities for customization. For my watch, I was able to choose the style of hands, the color of the movement plating, and the dial color. I also requested a red “30” in the subdial to mark a personal milestone.
As a result, each new Pascal Coyon creation that becomes public tends to have its own distinct personality and design. Recently, a Pascal Coyon Series 2 appeared at auction for the first time at Marteau: The Echo, held from March 12 to 19, 2026. This example featured a sector-style two-tone salmon dial paired with a white gold case. The final result reached CHF 51,000, or about $65,000, setting a new auction record for Pascal Coyon.
Incidentally, another Pascal Coyon Series 2 is scheduled to appear at Marteau: The Heat Wave this coming June. This watch is housed in a stainless steel case, which is extremely rare for Pascal Coyon. In addition, this exceptional example features applied Eastern Arabic numerals set against a deep blue dial with three distinct tones and rich textural depth.
De Bethune DB27 V2 Night Hawk for EsperLuxe
1st article (Dec 13, 2020): De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk V2 in Salmon Dial
2nd article (June 6, 2021): A Visual Chronicle of De Bethune DB-27 Titan Hawk 2012 - 2021
3rd article (Dec 21, 2022): De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk JPS
A relatively short review of the De Bethune DB27 V2 listed above was actually the very first article posted on this newsletter back in December 2020. At the time, DB27 was considered the entry-level model from De Bethune, priced at around $35,000. It blended elements of the brand’s more classical designs with its avant-garde creations, making it an ideal first De Bethune for collectors entering the brand.
The De Bethune DB27 was first launched in 2012, followed by the V2 version in 2018. The salmon dial edition was created exclusively for the American market, first with a five-piece release in 2020, followed by another five pieces in 2022.
Over the years, I have often wondered whether a DB27 V3 launch might happen soon. Apparently not yet, as another special V2 edition was unveiled in early May 2026. Named the “Night Hawk,” this 10-piece limited edition was created in collaboration with EsperLuxe, a well-known independent dealer.
This latest DB27 adopts a deep blue color theme and introduces the titanium flame-blued “Starry Night” feature to the model line for the first time. The model name was also changed for this edition. While previous versions were generally known as the “Titan Hawk,” this new collaboration carries the specific name “Night Hawk.” The list price is $70,000.
I’m still looking forward to a V3 launch, perhaps in a smaller case size. If that happens, I will definitely write a review.
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