Hanoi

First walk out in Hanoi, after the 5 pm lunch, and the sun is already gone, or what was left of it. Following the motorbike noise, like a river flowing through a canyon, we drift towards the lake. An impressive red light ahead: the Ngoc Son Temple bridge shines with its mirrored reflection on Hoan Kiem Lake. Close by, the music is loud and the ladies are moving in a blend of senior dance and Tai Chi. On this trip, the capital was last but, as they say, not least.

There’s definitely a touch of modernity and some kind of appeal to the wealthy. The French Quarter and the almost empty Trang Tien Plaza are good examples of that. On the opposite side, the Temple of Literature offers impressive artefacts and a rich history.

The old quarter has or had its charm. There are still some interesting streets where life goes by. At night though, there’s a big contrast between the often quiet and lonely streets and the most lively ones with loud music and dozens of touts. From foot massage, bun-cha or booze, sometimes it’s almost tempting and, easier, to walk in the middle of the road avoiding bikes. To be honest, walking in the road is pretty common as the sidewalk is for top priority, motorbikes or the frequent fake North Face bag.

Funny fact, Hanoi was the place in Vietnam where I took the fewest photos. Of all the days, the morning stroll by Dong Xuan Market was clearly a favourite. Yep, I love markets, can’t help it, always a go-to anywhere I travel. This one transports you a bit in time, as most business is done right on the street, often on the floor. No prepared food here, just raw ingredients ready to go to someone’s home, and belly. And speaking of bellies, Hanoi gave me a banh mi redemption. We were a bit traumatised by the one we had in HCMC, but this one was yummy.

The lake, always the lake. Ho Tay doesn’t have the same appeal as the smaller and cosier Hoan Kiem. The latter is a magnet for people of all ages : kids and elders, couples in love, and crazy runners in this heat and humidity. Maybe it’s their sweat that helps feed the lake. I hope not, as the fish some catch wouldn’t taste that good.

Our last morning was spent at Hoa Lo Prison, the famous “Hanoi Hilton.” There’s no doubt the narrative has been enhanced by the regime, highlighting the torture and execution of several Vietnamese Communist Party members in this place. It’s hard to forget the harsh legacy that colonialism and war left on Vietnam and its people. For me, the best part was hearing an American guy commenting, something along this line, to someone else : “I think we all should see this to avoid repeating the same mistakes.”

Closing the original Robin Williams words, goooooood evening Vietnam! See you next time.

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