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Notes from the Road

The Muddy Backwater of the Travel Blogosphere

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Lipari and the Colonel’s Lemon

A lemon shaped like nothing in any Sicilian market, and the colonel who bred its ancestor. Part III of The Citrus Kingdom crosses by ferry to Lipari in the Aeolian Islands, where a backyard of misshapen citrus leads to a Garibaldi revolutionary who set down his rifle and picked up a grafting knife.

Cefalù and the Sour Orange

The fruit nobody ever bought is the one that held up the entire Sicilian citrus trade. Part II of The Citrus Kingdom follows the sour orange from Norman Cefal to a failed graft in a Florentine garden, and on to the strangest wrong answer Charles Darwin ever gave.

Palermo and the Citrus Kingdom

How a weirdo fruit from the far end of the known world made Palermo the capital of a citrus kingdom. Part I of The Citrus Kingdom follows the citron from monsoon Asia to a hidden Arab courtyard in Palermo, one careful handoff at a time.

From Travel Palette to Studio Watercolor Palette

After twenty-five years of field sketching from a waterproof travel tin, I finally built a permanent studio watercolor palette: sixty pigments organized across two porcelain palettes, mapped, labeled, and laminated.

Sicily Map: Handpainted Watercolor Map

A hand-painted watercolor map of Sicily, first created in 2014 and updated in 2026 for the Citrus Kingdom articles, depicting Mount Etna, the island's coastlines, and its hill towns.

Aeolian Islands Map

A hand-drawn map of the seven volcanic islands of the Tyrrhenian Sea north of Sicily: Lipari, Vulcano, Stromboli, Salina, Filicudi, Alicudi, and Panarea.

Chili Peppers of the World: An Illustrated Guide

An illustrated guide to 176 chili peppers from around the world, exploring their origins, history, cultivation, and remarkable diversity.

Handmade Hawaiian Islands Maps

Two hand-painted maps of Hawaiʻi: the full 1,500-mile archipelago and the eight main Hawaiian Islands.

Desert Southwest Sketch Journal

Sketches of a disappearing roadside—motels, signs, and the fading visual language of the American desert.

The Pupfish Wars of Death Valley

Lake Manly rises again, reviving the fight over water, extinction, and a one-inch fish that has survived in Devils Hole for ten thousand years.

The Evidence at Río Guayabo

Along a quiet river in Costa Rica, insects, parasites, and hidden lives reveal the living systems beneath everything we take for granted.

Wildfires Are Getting Worse. Patrick Moore Says Otherwise.

Patrick Moore claims wildfires aren't getting worse because of climate change. A forensic rebuttal shows how heat, drought, and atmospheric drying are driving larger, more destructive fires.

A Drop of Water and Lago Angostura

At Lago Angostura in Costa Rica, a single drop of water reveals the hidden infrastructure of life — from microbes and plankton to the ecosystems that sustain the living world.

Bob, About That Hellbender

A viral hellbender video raises a larger question: what happens when handling sensitive wildlife becomes social media content — and who decides when admiration becomes harm?

Alien Face in the Rain: Part III of Turrialba Volcano

In the mist below Turrialba, life beneath the forest floor proves more foundational than stone and steel. Part III of Turrialba Volcano and the Infrastructure of Everything.

Minneapolis ICE Memorials: Renée Good & Alex Pretti

A photo gallery documenting the memorials and vigils in Minneapolis after the fatal shootings of Renée Nicole Good and Alex Pretti by federal immigration enforcement agents.

Chris Dorsey's Polar Bear Argument is Reheated Denial

A systematic rebuttal of Chris Dorsey's polar bear claims, featuring interviews with Arctic sea-ice scientist Dr. Julienne Stroeve and National Geographic photographer Kiliii Yuyan, grounded in long-term population science.

The Fungus Beetle and the Fungus

Above and below ground on Costa Rica's Turrialba Volcano, a fungus beetle and a Costa Rican Red Leg Tarantula reveal the hidden networks of decay, communication, and connection that hold the forest together.

Turrialba Volcano and the Infrastructure of Everything

On Costa Rica's Turrialba Volcano, cloud forests, mixed flocks, and unseen ecological systems reveal the living infrastructure that makes a habitable world possible.

Hurricanes and the Art of Denial: Debunking Miltimore

A detailed rebuttal of Jon Miltimore's hurricane claims, explaining why raw storm counts mislead and how climate change is making hurricanes more destructive even as their frequency stays flat.

Time in the Tunis Medina

In the Tunis Medina, walking with my family becomes a way of learning how ideas of power survive across generations — written into the geometry of streets that have resisted every attempt to make them legible.

Zaghouan to the Tunis Medina

A journey from Tunisia's Zaghouan highlands to the Tunis Medina, tracing Berber ridge villages, Roman aqueducts, and salt lakes alive with flamingos — a landscape that shapes the lives within it.

Sibovia pileata and the Honeydew Launch

A tiny jewel of a leafhopper captured ejecting a droplet of honeydew at high speed — revealing a hidden world of micro-ballistics happening millions of times per second across the planet.

Sidi Bou Said and Fantastical Seaside Villages

In Tunisia's most fantastical seaside village, a walk through the blue and white alleys of Sidi Bou Said becomes a meditation on what makes a place truly beautiful — and why imitation never equals integrity.

Portland ICE Protests: Costumes and Courage

In Portland, protest became art. Notes from the Road documents a city's creative defiance as hundreds stood against Trump's ICE — blending humor, costume, and courage in one of the most photographed protest movements in America.

Patrick Moore's Nuclear Radiation Propaganda Destroyed

Patrick Moore claims nuclear radiation is harmless, even healthy. Notes from the Road dismantles his pseudoscientific defense of nuclear energy and exposes the distortions of radiation health science driving it.

Trump-Inspired Violence and Why He'll Never Win the Nobel Peace Prize

Some believe Donald Trump could win the Nobel Peace Prize, but his record of inciting violence and division at home tells a different story. Notes from the Road maintains the most exhaustive documented record of Trump-inspired violence.

Tunisia Map | Handpainted Map of Tunisia

A handpainted watercolor map of Tunisia showing the country's deceptive geography — from the green northern hills and Roman ruins to the vast, empty reaches of the Sahara.

The Ġbejna Journals in Gozo

In M'dina and Gozo's fields, bejna completes an 8,000-year Maltese journey through history.

Following the Ġbejna Trail Across Malta

From Neolithic seafarers to modern refugees, the hidden history of Malta is written in cheese.

Malta Map: Watercolor Map of Malta, Gozo & Comino

A watercolor map of the Maltese Islands—Malta, Gozo, and Comino—showing the archipelago and its major towns, painted to accompany my travel stories.

Edge of the Bisti Badlands

A night hike in Bisti/De-Na-Zin reveals one of Earth's best windows into the Cretaceous—an exposed fossil delta where the Western Interior Sea once flowed.

Ganghwa Island: Treaties in the Tidelands

Ganghwa Island's tidal flats host the endangered Black-faced Spoonbill—and an overlooked case for cooperation amid rising nationalism and isolationism.

Reading Paria Canyon

Paria Canyon glows with color and silence. A walk through its narrows becomes a reflection on reading, memory, and the spread of conspiratorial thinking.

Korea Sketch Journal

Drawings, field notes, and sketches from my time traveling through cities, coastlines, and countryside in Korea.

Bakers Bay Club's Inaction Deepens Ecological Crisis at Fowl Cays Coral Reef

A barge and tugboat have crushed a protected coral reef—and Bakers Bay Club refuses to act. Fowl Cays bleeds while the billionaires stall and their subcontractors sue each other.

Euljiro: Memory Origin Space

Industrial alleys, tomcats, weird economies and the machines of memory in Seoul's Euljiro neighborhood

Yuccas of the World

A guide to yucca species from around the globe, brought to life with charming hand-drawn sketches for plant enthusiasts and nature lovers.

Paddling Kealakekua Bay

Paddling across Kealakekua Bay on the Big Island of Hawaii to visit Captain Cook's memorial and snorkel the pristine reef beneath it.

Venice and Adriatic Sketch Journal

My sketches and illustrations of Venice and the Venetian cities of the Adriatic include notes and sketches from Venice, Croatia and Slovenia.

Slubberdegullions of the Santa Marta Mountains

As we ascend the Santa Marta Mountains in Northern Colombia, I offer my defense of colorful words and language.

Debunking the Anti-Climate Change Patrick Moore Book

Notes from the Road investigates each chapter in Patrick Moore's latest book, asking whether readers have been bamboozled by pseudoscience?

Liquid Architecture of the Venetian Adriatic

In Venice, Istrian Croatia and Slovenia, I imagine the challenge of building cities as elegant as those of the Venetian Empire in tomorrow's world.

San José del Cabo Estuary

While exploring Baja Sur's magical freshwater wetlands, I find the telltale signs of development and tourism spilling into the fragile ecosystem.

Waves of Sand in Rainbow Country

While hiking in the Vermilion Cliffs, I dive deep into the ancient geological epochs that created these beautiful rainbows of stone. Includes an interview with provocateur Matt Livingston Omega.

Hot Sauces of the World

A complete guide to all the world's hot sauce types, with hand-drawn sketches.

Bruce Haedrich EV Article Fails on Facts and Logic

Notes from the Road urges author Bruce Haedrich to abandon his indefensible thesis on EV batteries.

Firelight in the Dark Divide

A backpacking trip to the solitary wilderness in southwestern Washington feeds my love of campfires.

Ancient Improvisation in Paros

On the Greek Island of Paros, I explore whether a musical improvisation master might have built up a following in the ancient Mediterranean.

Alley Cats of the World

My gallery of alley cats photographed from around the world.