In May, The New York Times declared the handbag is over. In the 60s, Diana Vreeland largely ignored them (she felt they disrupted the fantasy that is fashion); Carine Roitfeld was known to eschew them in favor of carrying her phone. And we know how Freud felt about them.
While I agree with Vanessa Friedman that the more powerful the person, the less the need for a bag, I don’t equate walking around just holding your phone as chic. If anything, I think you end up looking at it more, which is antithetical to how we want to spend summer: engaged in the present, writhing with charisma, the air buzzy with connection and possibility. What I do think is chic is a wildly impractical bag that holds nothing.
Besides holding things, bags are a useful communication tool. They add contrast or polish or intrigue to an outfit. A blue suede clutch for daytime, a beaded bag (ohhh this one if you can stand the wait) with roomy jeans, an oversized tote at night that signals they should be happy you even showed up.
So, today, bags for environments we will certainly find ourselves in this summer, plus a spotlight on a truly original accessories designer (and friend), the lovely Esha Soni.
WHAT’S IN HER BAG
ESHA SONI: THE OOD TREATMENT
I first met Esha Soni at the bar of New York’s La Mercerie, the design world’s canteen that is fittingly attached to Roman & Williams’ expansive home store. We’d been introduced by a mutual friend, and Esha was curious about selling her line on goop.
The collection didn’t look like anything else I’d seen: the combination of luxurious calf hair, sculptural Elsa Peretti-like hardware and organic shapes felt modern and unique, as I’d soon learn, not unlike Esha herself.
Esha is what some call a “working actor,” in that she’s been an accessories designer for years, just without top billing. Instead, she spent years toiling behind the scenes for designers like Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, honing her craft. (And she’s Indian! You know I love a chic Indian).
Today, Esha gets her very own Objects of Desire treatment.
If you are in the Hamptons this weekend, Esha is hosting a trunk show at goop Sag Harbor on June 13th & 14th.
On starting her own line…
I have always had a distinct point of view, coupled with an inherent entrepreneurial spirit. Growing up in India and watching my mother build a jewelry brand with both passion and grit gave me the confidence to trust my instincts and my perspective from an early age.
So, the idea of building my own brand never felt daunting.. it always felt inevitable.
What mattered to me was taking the time to truly understand the industry first. I worked hard and was fortunate to be part of some of the most iconic American fashion stories.
On her inspirations and references when she first started…
I began conceptualizing and designing Esha Soni in late 2019. I remember being in a deep state of creative flow, fully trusting my instincts and intuition. I found myself deeply drawn to biomorphic forms: organic, asymmetrical shapes with a softness and roundness to them. I looked to artists and sculptors such as Jules Olitski, Jean Arp, and Victor Pasmore for inspiration.
On those Elsa Peretti comparisons…
It’s interesting now because I’m often compared to Elsa Peretti. While I never directly referenced her work at the time, I can clearly see the parallels in retrospect. I wanted to create a juxtaposition between these organic, asymmetrical hardware elements and very clean, modern, sculptural silhouettes. We went through several rounds of development with our artisans in Italy to perfect the shapes and proportions of the bags. I loved that early process of building the brand-the exploration, the experimentation, and the gradual refinement of an idea into something tangible.
On Isabel Marant presenting her with the U.S. Fashion Trust Accessories Award…
When the U.S. Fashion Trust reached out to invite me to L.A to present my collection, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. The entire experience felt surreal from the very beginning. The award ceremony itself was extraordinary - a red carpet event filled with Hollywood actors, celebrities, designers, and industry leaders. Macy Gray performed live that evening.
I had been a huge fan of Isabel Marant since my college days, so knowing she was one of the judges already felt incredibly special. She also happened to be presenting the inaugural accessories award. When she announced my name as the winner, I was completely stunned. I remember sitting there with my head in my hands, my legs trembling as I walked up to the stage. She hugged me and whispered in my ear, “This was the easiest decision we made.”
On what’s next…
If anything, the [award] encouraged me to go deeper into our design language- continuing to refine our sculptural forms, materiality, and attention to detail while building the brand in a thoughtful and sustainable way.
I think the biggest evolution has been in the confidence to trust my own instincts even more -to lean fully into the world we are creating and allow the brand to grow organically and authentically over time.
On her first wholesale accounts…
Our first wholesale account was actually The Conservatory. Its founder, Brian Bolke (Ed Note: I love Brian!), has an incredibly discerning eye and is known for discovering and championing emerging brands with a distinct point of view. Vanessa Barboni Hallik** who is a friend, introduced Brian to my work, and he immediately connected with the collection. Soon after, the bags were carried in his Dallas store, which was a very meaningful early validation for the brand.
Michael Kors, whom I worked with for nearly a decade and who has been very supportive of my work, later introduced the collection to Linda Fargo at Bergdorf Goodman. This was shortly after I had won the U.S. Fashion Trust award. Linda and Yumi Shin both responded very positively to the collection and placed an order. I was also selected as one of Bergdorf Goodman’s Radar Designers for 2025, which was another exciting milestone for the brand.
On her perfect afternoon…
A perfect afternoon can be so many things. It could be a summer afternoon on the beach, with my kids and my best friends, chilled beer, listening to music and eating lobster rolls from a cooler. Or a snowy afternoon with a fire going, watching a movie with my kids.. Cozy.. maybe a glass of red in hand. Or a vibrant afternoon in Mumbai with my family wandering through shops, eating delicious food and taking in all the sensory delights Mumbai has to offer.
On growing up in India…
Growing up in India shaped me in ways that go far beyond aesthetics. It instilled in me a strong sense of discipline, resilience, and an understanding that meaningful things require patience and hard work. It also gave me an innate confidence to be entrepreneurial - to trust my instincts, take risks, and build something of my own.
In terms of design influences, I wouldn’t say my work references India in an overt or literal way. The influence is much more intuitive and emotional. Perhaps it comes through in my attraction to jewelry-like elements, sculptural metal hardware, and an appreciation for objects that feel tactile, expressive, and beautifully crafted. But overall, I think the influence is less about visual motifs and more about a certain richness of sensibility...an appreciation for detail, materiality, and artistry that has always surrounded me.
On her beach house turned permanent home…
Since 2020, I’ve been living in my former “summer” home in Montauk year-round. The house has a very serene, beachy feeling, lots of white walls and white floors, layered with natural wood elements and textures that make it feel warm and grounded.
I love collecting objects during my travels, so many pieces in my home carry memories and stories attached to them. Fresh flowers are also a big part of how I live- especially in the summer.
I also have many of the ceramic vessels I prototyped throughout the house, particularly in vibrant yellows and blues, which bring a sense of playfulness and color into the space.
On the designers she admires…
Jonathan Anderson, Phoebe Philo, Dries Van Noten, Sophie Buhai, Ashlyn Park
On the five objects of desire she has in her home…
An antique brass telescope my father hand carried all the from India.
All of my jewelry gifted to me by my mother: uncut diamonds, rubies, turquoise, emeralds, a treasure trove of Indian craftsmanship
A Lindsey Adelman lighting piece, from her branching bubble collection
My Accessories Award 2025 from the US Fashion Trust
A giant (and most perfect) Conch shell I carried from me from Turks and Caicos. And really all of my shell collection… I love collecting unique shaped shells from all the beaches I travel to- little treasures from the ocean.
On her five fantasy objects of desire…
An Original Jules Olitski
Déméter by Jean Arp (the Bronze version)
A Simone Bodmer Turner chain (or sculpture- I love all her work)
Two Forms | Henri Moore
An Amoako Boafo painting- I love the starkness of his work and use of color
On the Esha Soni bags she carries the most…
During the day I always carry My Slope (in Ebony during the winter and Saddle in the summer). I will also grab The Arc 2.0 when I don’t want a crossbody and just want an easy hand held ‘basket like shape’ in the Slate color.
In the evenings I mostly grab my Orb and recently I have been wear testing our newest piece (launching soon) The Orb 2.0, with the chain clutch. I love this bag so much for the evening and the chain is gorgeous. It’s a box chain that can easily be removed if I just want a clutch.
** Hallik is the founder of another of the elegant sustainable brand Another Tomorrow. I used to consult for her and can attest she’s the best.
AND A FEW OTHER BAGS WE LOVE…
A minaudiere with tassels for an occassion (or every day with jeans)
My most used bag, in a chic steel grey color
FROM THE ARCHIVES: THE OOD TREATMENT
Danielle Sherman of Sherman Field
Stephanie Danan of CO by Stephanie Danan
Stylist Jessica Raiter
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