From summer 2019-2024ish, the camp collar short sleeve button up had dudes in a vice grip. Untucked, open with an undershirt, probably with some big print, maybe a hit of embroidery, we all remember those days. Since then, the moodboards have been washed over with The Talented Mr Ripley stills and paparazzi shots of JFK Jr. Big, flowy poplin or oxford-cloth dress shirts, 1/4 of the sleeve rolled up, it’s a good look. But I fear we’ve thrown the baby out with the bath water.
The short-sleeve collared button up first came from tennis players and golfers seeking more mobility and breathability from their garb. The solution was hacking the sleeves off above the elbow. The idea spread quickly - NASA engineers, mechanics, the Boy Scouts all adopted this functional and cool-wearing style of shirt.
When a certain style of garment becomes as permissible as the short-sleeve camp-collar did, we have a tendency to associate the entire garment itself with that trend. It’s understandable, to this day most clothing companies are making their short sleeve shirts with a camp collar, no wonder people have a hard time imagining anything else. But personally, I love a short-sleeved shirt, hell I still rock a camp collar! Iron the collar up, or button it fully, and it just looks like any old short sleeve. Style it differently than the H&M mannequins and it’s got a whole different feel than what you’d expect.
Today I’m going run through a few dozen brands and keywords worth searching for on the 2nd hand market before my round-up of 46 vintage short sleeves, and dozens of brands to look out for. .
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