Spring is here in Denver! The trees are getting green and flowers are starting to bloom. It’s also the season for renewal, and I’m taking that to heart by looking for ways to refresh my content in this newsletter and on Instagram. I want to keep my content valuable to you as possible, so I’d love your thoughts on what’s working and what should come next.
I need your help with two questions:
New vs. old? Should I stick to the latest restaurant openings, or would you also like to know about spots that have been around a while but are still doing great things?
What’s missing? What types of stories are you most interested in seeing me tackle? I’m also looking for the chefs and restaurants you think need more attention.
How to weigh in:
You can also hit reply to this email or drop into the comments and tell me your thoughts. I read every response and would love to hear your specific story ideas.
Once I get a good handle of where everyone’s heads are at, I will share the results – I can’t wait to hear from you. ❤️
Okey dokey – Let’s dive into this month’s report!
Here’s what’s in today’s newsletter:
5 new Denver-area and Colorado restaurants & bars you should know about
3 links that made me laugh, cry, or say whaaaat?
One final craving (a little bird that tasted like the garden and the sea)
I keep a list of all the new and upcoming restaurant openings in and around the Denver area and every few weeks I filter through them to find the ones you actually need to know about. Here’s my curated list of interesting spots that started welcoming guests in March:
The grand opening of the All Inn Hotel is a milestone for owner Brian Toerber’s decade-long restoration project of the Colfax property. Originally opened in 1959 as the Fountain Inn, the building had fallen into deep disrepair by the time Toerber purchased it in 2016. But as of last month, the boutique hotel is officially open for business, and features FiNO, a Mediterranean restaurant on the ground floor.
Owned and operated by Steven Waters – founder of Take Care Brands Hospitality and LoDo cocktail bar Run for the Roses – FiNO is a swinging Mediterranean concept with an opening menu crafted by consulting chef Sheamus Feeley. During a preview night, the selection focused on small plates, pastas, and seafood; however, Waters noted this represents only 60% of the intended final menu. Moving forward, they plan to hire a full-time executive chef to lead the kitchens at both FiNO and All Is Well, the hotel’s lobby bar and lounge.
Vibe: Before its newest reincarnation, the space lived many lives: a steakhouse, a Mexican joint, and most recently, the gritty dance hall Rockbar, which shuttered in 2012. While those other versions left their own legacies, FiNO’s slick setup has more in common with the restaurant’s first life as the Gold Room, an elegant establishment that promised “luxurious relaxation” to the customers visiting in 1959. While the white tablecloths and waitstaff stuffed into white tuxes have been swapped for a more casual look of burl wood patterned tabletops and a uniform of fitted black tees and pants, some direct traces to the past remain – most notably the original Palos Verde stone feature wall that’s broken up by narrow windows on the south wall. While the Gold Room relied on dark wood and pale yellow upholstery, Abigail Plantier of Maximalist – also a partner in the hotel – tapped into the sleeker side of 1950s and 60s design. For the booths, tables, and chairs, she drew on organic, simple forms reminiscent of Arne Jacobsen or George Nelson with the pieces get a fresh spin with a jewel-toned palette of ruby, pale lapis, and jade green in touch-me textures like smooth vinyl, soft mohairs, and nubby wools. The bar and lounge area at the front of the restaurant are particularly nice places to grab a quick drink or snack and soak up the atmosphere.
What’s on the menu: Expect broadly appealing flavors that run through dishes like a charred cabbage served with capers and lemon over a cauliflower purée. My dinner companion loved the endive Caesar and I was partial to the mafaldine al limone, which ate like a zesty adult version of buttered and Parmesan cheesed noodles. The Vodka O’s was a quirky nod to the canned pasta favored by children and your dirtbag college boyfriend, complete with mid-sized meatballs and pasta rings coated in a classic spicy tomato sauce. The toasts, all served on GetRight’s bread, are good for sharing. You can take your pick from a very fresh tasting Spanish-inspired tomato toast (add on a serving of jamón ibérico) or Dungeness crab avocado version if it’s on the menu that day. To drink, a festive selection of sours, palomas, and margaritas, as well as non-alcoholic versions of the pineapple sour and the Medi marg await.
It hasn’t even been a whole year since chef Manny Barella and pitmaster Patrick Klaiber launched Riot BBQ in the old AJ’s space, but they are already at it again with a second restaurant called Chicken Riot. This new spot devoted to BBQ chicken is located on a commercial strip in the Cherry Creek neighborhood, and opened for business on Mar 26. A small 20 seat shop, it’s mainly set up as a take out and delivery operation for folks to pick up plates, sandwiches, and salads to eat at home. Due to the minimal space, the chicken is first cooked over oak at Riot BBQ, where a low and slow cooking method results in a moist and tender chicken that has a hint of smokiness. It’s then brought over to the new chicken shop where it’s finished off in fast-cooking ovens before serving.
The streamlined menu focused on pollo (in all its various forms) plus appetizing sides making it feel like a Mexican version of Boston Market. I could definitely see this place earning a spot on the weekly takeout rotation of folks living in the neighborhood and as a payday splurge spot for folks on a budget.
Vibe: The space is giving straight man decor, but it’s not without its charms. A cheerful array of vintage-looking chicken-themed signs hang along a feature wall that’s been painted Taylor Swift lipstick red. On the opposite side, rusty farm tools have been mounted in the Old McDonald version of a gallery wall. Otherwise, it’s a pretty utilitarian space, with refrigerated cases filled with bottled and canned drinks, and a display shelf neatly arranged with jars and bottles of Riot BBQ brisket tallow and hot sauce for purchase. The main seating area is comprised of two wheeled butcher block tables pushed together at the center of the room, and bar-height seating extends in an L shape from the windows to one side of the restaurant. The outside wrapper on the windows sports cartoon chickens, each wielding a riotous weapon – which I’m told was created with the help of AI tools.
What’s on the menu: A lot of the featured flavors are inspired by the cooking of Barella’s mom and grandma and memories of growing up in Northern Mexico. There are only a handful of entrees on the menu, the star of which is a smoked half chicken (either pibil or citrus marinated) plate with two sides for $19. The sauces that accompany the chicken are fantastic. A deviled egg chicken salad sandwich served on a Reunion Bread croissant and a chicken Caesar salad called the “Rich White Chick” were a hit with my dining companion, and the most portable item is the “Mexican Protein Bar” – a smoked turkey tamale – the only non-chicken main on the menu.
Want to get a better feel for the place? Check out my IG carousel on Chicken Riot.
If you find yourself in downtown Denver searching for a quick, healthy lunch or a reliable dinner spot, you’ll want to keep this new opening on your radar. Located right in the heart of Union Station, this Korean and sushi fast-casual concept is already seeing a brisk lunch crowd, though it’s still trying to find its footing as an evening destination for locals. It’s a nice addition to the neighborhood, offering a fresh alternative for those who want something nourishing without the long wait of a traditional sit-down meal.
Vibe: The interior is modern and surprisingly elegant for a fast-casual space, anchored by beautiful fish-shaped lamps that appear to swim across the ceiling. If the weather is cooperating, the covered outdoor patio is the place to be; it’s perfect for soaking up the downtown atmosphere and watching the city life roll by while you eat.
What’s on the menu: Chef and owner Jackie Cho uses her Korean-American heritage as the foundation for the menu, focusing on hearty Korean BBQ bento boxes and bibimbap loaded with fresh vegetables. While the bulgogi rice bowl is the signature hot dish, Cho also offers grab-and-go sushi options that cater to the busy downtown pace. Pro tip: the sushi is made in small batches throughout the day, so if you have your heart set on a specific roll or sushi bowl, be sure to pre-order through their website to avoid being limited to the pre-made selections in the case.
The Austin-born breakfast concept officially made its debut on March 24, planting its third and newest location right here in Denver. Founded over a decade ago by Ryan Harms, Paperboy finally made it across the Texas border thanks to a nudge from longtime business partner and local resident Robert Brown. In the kitchen is Executive Chef Pat Jackson, who cut his teeth working for the company in Austin, but now lives in Denver. The space has already become a magnet for the brunch-loving set in Highlands; on a Monday morning visit, the dining room was brimming with everyone from couples on brunch dates to young families with kids eagerly diving into stacks of pancakes. If you get there during a crush, there will probably be a wait, so plan ahead and make a reservation if you can.
Vibe: Spanning over 3,000 square feet, the interior has a bit of retro ‘70s swagger (wood paneling) and modern cheer, anchored by the brand’s signature palette of blue and butter yellow. A full wall of windows floods the room with natural light, making the geometric and abstract artwork pop. For those who are flying solo (or who just want to take a spin on the classic diner stools) there is bar seating up front, while dog owners can take advantage of the outdoor patio on the side of the restaurant.
What’s on the menu: It’s a large collection of brunch classics that are taken up a notch or two. The ricotta toast is a feast for the eyes, piled high with strawberry and rhubarb and accented by cardamom, white balsamic, and a crunch of honeycomb brittle. It’s a nice option if you’re not a pancake or cinnamon toast person. On the savory side, the marinated flank steak paired with chimichurri and a mountain of crispy potato wedges is a winner, as is the Texas hash, which features a rich pecan mole that beautifully complements the pork and sweet potato. Paperboy has become known for their cheddar hashbrown – a golden-fried potato cake with the impressive height of two stacked hockey pucks that turns heads when it’s walked through the dining room. To wash it all down, they offer a full coffee program featuring Austin’s Superthing Coffee alongside a clever zero-proof cocktail list – try the Strawberry Patch for something light and fruity, or the Lost & Found for a woodsy, snappy ginger kick.
Honestly, if you haven’t made the drive down to Parker to try Poulette by now, I’m not sure we can be friends. That said, their new location on Main Street opened on March 11 and serves as the perfect excuse to finally make the trip. They’ve officially traded in that cramped strip mall storefront on Hess Road – where Alen Ramos and Carolyn Nugent first started their business back in 2020 – for a bright, airy space that kicks off a new chapter for their brand of fine pastries.
Vibe: The larger footprint takes Poulette from a simple grab-and-go counter into a proper cafe, finished with classic black-and-white bistro tables and matching penny tile. The entire look was inspired by the cafes found in Paris and other European cities, where you can take a load off and luxuriate in enjoying your pastries fresh from the case. While the old spot had over a dozen ceramic chickens that gave that space a bit of a country barnyard feel, here the flock has been paired down to a handful of Nugent’s favorite birds that are displayed on a shelf behind the counter alongside some of the staff’s favorite cookbooks.
What’s on the menu: You can still find all the exceptional viennoiseries fans have come to love, from their signature XL macarons and intricate tarts to impeccably laminated croissants. Now armed with a larger space and their dream equipment, they’ve been able to increase production to better meet demand. That said, you still should get there early – lines still frequently stretch out the door, and the most popular items tend to sell out well before closing. Since Poulette keeps their drink menu simple with just bottled cold brew and water, they encourage you to pop over to Marvin’s Place, the coffee shop next door, to grab a cup to bring back. The two spots have a great neighborly dynamic, so you’re just as welcome to take your pastries over to Marvin’s to enjoy them there, too.
Can the Indies Save Food Writing? Beyond Beurre Blanc
Independent Minnesota restaurant critic Kristie Kimball interviewed a number of her favorite writers on Substack to better understand what draws food writers to the platform. I encourage you to read the whole longform article, but the main themes are 1) starting your own pub allows you to develop your niche and do coverage that no one else is doing, 2) not being tied to a bigger brand means you get to develop (and keep) own voice and style in the copy – something real people like because they get to know YOU, not some amorphous “brand”, 3) while some things are lost by not having an editor, creativity, experimentation, mistakes and weird sh*t flourishes on platforms like Substack, which ultimately make things more interesting (and fun!), 4) going at it on your own is 10x the work and HARD. It often means self-funding in the beginning and working without a financial or legal safety net, 5) if you like reading the sometimes weird and wacky work of independent writers, support them by subscribing, donating, or sharing their work with others.
The High-Alcohol Drink Taking Over Gen Z. New York Times
Somehow a 15 percent ABV drink brand called BuzzBallz has a chokehold on the pre-teen to college-age market. Although the company says they are careful to market to the over 21s, that has not stopped the youths from wanting to throw BBallz-fueled ragers. You can see why kids would be drawn to BuzzBallz: they’re pre-mixed cocktails with vodka, rum, or wine bases that come packaged in colorful, palm-sized orbs that look a lot like Christmas ornaments. And the flavors? Well, they sound a lot like dirty soda syrups: Chili Mango, Berry Cherry Limeade, and Watermelon Smash. Their affordability (they can cost as little as $4 a can) is a major factor in why they’ve become a go-to for young legal (and underage) drinkers.
Have you seen this beaded glassware at restaurants? Of course you have. Washington Post
If you eat out enough, you probably have come across the Zwiesel Foressa Jupiter glass. Loved for its stocky shape, durable construction, and availability in a kaleidoscope of colors, over the last decade it’s become a ubiquitous presence on restaurant tables across the US. Originally inspired by a glass found at a European flea market, restaurants love it because the raised beaded design means fingerprints don’t readily show on the outside. Sales of the glass took off during the pandemic when people were stuck at home and wanted to bring restaurant ambience to their dining rooms and kitchens.
After business at his acclaimed Pasadena restaurant, Bar Chelou, suffered in the wake of the 2024 Eaton Fire, Douglas Rankin was ready for a fresh start in Denver. His move began with a search for work, and his outreach on a job listing at Hop Alley caught owner Tommy Lee’s attention immediately. The two got to talking, which eventually birthed Petit Chelou – a residency at Hop Alley’s chef’s counter where Rankin pilots a creative, multi-course tasting menu inspired by an eclectic range of ingredients.
The food is as fresh and exciting. During a recent visit, I failed to pace myself and was already stuffed by the time the final savory course arrived. It was a crispy little quail paired with a rich vin jaune sauce and a fennel pollen furikake that tasted like the garden and the sea combined. It was so good that I had the rest packed to-go, allowing me to enjoy those complex flavors all over again the next day.
ICYMI: Last month, I covered the S-tier chef duo who launched their first restaurant, a Western-inspired bakery for the girlies, and a Japanese restaurant known for fire-kissed food makes its way to Denver.✨Read it here✨
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