RECIPE: Patatas Bravas

Sometimes you have to show up and admit that after years of trying to love the original of something, you just don’t, and you've ended up making your own version instead. Gah. I’ve said it.

There are two dishes I’m always slightly reluctant to order in Spain. Which is awkward, because clearly people absolutely adore them. One is flamenquín. A deep-fried roulade of pork, ham and cheese. On paper, everything I should love. In reality, I’ve never enjoyed more than the first bite of one.

The second? Patatas bravas. I know. Trust me, I know.

I love what the Spanish do with potatoes. I’d never mess with papas aliñás or patatas a lo pobre. I think we can all agree that potatoes are one of Spain’s great achievements. Every region seems to have found a different way to coax something wonderful out of a spud. You know my feelings on tortilla! (My recipe here)

Which is why patatas bravas should be up there for me! Fried potatoes? Yep. A spicy sauce? Yep. Alioli? Spoon it into my mouth. And yet.

There is something about taking a perfectly crisp potato and tossing it in a wet sauce that has never made sense to me. This is a personal take, obviously. Curry and chips, poutine, and countless other potato-sauce pairings have millions of fans. I love saucy stuff, just not on chips. I love the sauces in this recipe spooned on top of fudgy potatoes with crisped up skins. I also want a little texture in my tomato sauce in contrast to the silky alioli.

If I’m being completely honest, though, I think the real problem is that I’ve eaten a lot of mediocre patatas bravas. I’ve had great ones, of course, but I rarely order them anymore for fear of disappointment. You know how a tiramisu in an Italian restaurant can just as easily be the best or the worst you’ve ever had and there’s no telling which it might be?

So here’s a recipe I’ve been tinkering with ever since I was teaching Spanish classes over Zoom during lockdown. It’s not the authentic stock, bay leaf, paprika, flour thickened sauce from the North. I’m team tomato. A spicy tomato sauce that’s just vinegary enough to keep things zippy, but still has a little sweetness to round everything out. A splash of ketchup brightens the whole thing up. You can skip the charred chillies if that feels like too much effort or you don’t have the means to. The harissa, however, is non-negotiable. If you haven't tried Lamiri's yet, this is your sign. It's outrageously good, with a natural smokiness that comes from roasting the chillies in traditional log ovens. (You can buy it on ocado now)

The alioli is, without exaggeration, the best garlic mayonnaise you’ll ever make. Rich and glossy, sharpened with garlic and a squeeze of lemon. If you own a stick blender, it takes less than 30 seconds to make.

Boil potatoes, cool them, crush them lightly and roast in a cast-iron pan/tray until every edge goes crisp and golden. This is a lot easier than peeling, chopping and deep frying potatoes and dare I say it, I prefer them. You can, of course, deep-fry and keep at least one element of the recipe authentic.

Serves 6-8 as a side, with leftover sauce (freeze half for another time)

• 2 red chillies (optional, plus more for garnish if you like)

• 50ml extra virgin olive oil

• 1 large onion, sliced

• 3 cloves garlic, bashed and skin removed

• 1 x 400g can chopped tomatoes/passata (I like Mutti)

• 1.5 tsp harissa paste (I love Lamiri)

• 1 flat tsp smoked paprika

• 2 tbsp tomato ketchup (or 3/4 tsp sugar)

1. Burn the chillies (optional)

   If you have a gas hob, hold the chillies directly over the flame with a pair of long tongs, until blackened all over. They’ll blister first before the skin begins to char.

   Transfer them to a bowl, cover with a plate and leave to steam for 10 minutes. This loosens the skin and makes them much easier to peel. Once cool enough to handle, scrape away the charred skin and remove the seeds.

   

2. Meanwhile, place a large frying pan on a medium heat and add the oil, sliced onion, garlic and a big pinch of flaky salt. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently until the onions are jammy and sweet and taking on some colour.

3. Add the tomatoes and stir well. Pour 150ml water into the empty tin, give it a swirl to catch any remaining tomato, then add it to the pan along with the harissa, paprika and charred chillies.

   Cook for 10 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the ketchup and have a taste. If the sauce feels balanced and rounded, take it off the heat and blitz until smooth.

   If it’s still tasting a little sharp or astringent, cook for another 10 minutes, adding a splash of water if needed. Once the acidity has mellowed and the flavours have come together, blend into a smooth sauce. If it needs loosening, add a tbsp of water and blitz again.

   

• 1 big clove of garlic

• 60ml extra virgin olive oil

• 130ml sunflower oil

• pinch of flaky salt

• 1 large egg

• 1 tsp lemon juice

Method

1. Remove skin from garlic and cut in half lengthways, now remove the germ.

2. It’s important to use a mug or container that’s only slightly wider than the head of your stick blender. Add all of the ingredients, then place the blender right at the bottom with the blade touching the base.

3. Switch it on and don’t move it for 15–20 seconds. As the mayonnaise begins to form, slowly and steadily lift the blender through the mixture until everything is emulsified, pale and thick.

   Resist the temptation to rush this part. Let the mayonnaise build from the bottom up and it should come together beautifully every time.

   

4. Check for seasoning, you may want to add a touch more salt or lemon juice. Keep in the fridge.

The trick is to pre boil your potatoes until they’re actually very soft, to the point you could butter them and eat them as is. Then let them cool. You can then forget about them until you’re ready to pass them through your hottest oven or pizza oven.

• 500g waxy/firm potatoes, these are Pink fir (Yukon gold or Desirée would be great)

• 100ml olive oil

1. In a large pan of cold water, add the potatoes and 1tbsp salt. Bring to the boil and cook until you easily insert a knife.

2. Drain and let cool.

3. Use a jar or glass to gently crush them and then douse in olive oil and a pinch of flaky sea salt and roast in a 220c oven until the edges get crisp and crunchy.

To serve you can just dollop the sauces over the top and call it a day or you could add more charred peppers or even thinly sliced chives… for the eyes.

The other half of the brava sauce will freeze really well or you can use it in all manner of dishes.

Hope you find time to bring this not so authentic but really delicious side to your table this Summer x