Unlike “It” bags, which rapidly become bestsellers after being spotted on a runway, jewels rarely achieve must-have-it-right-now status. It’s a level of success that can’t be manufactured.
In other words, tossing an item on a bunch of heavy hitters on Instagram simultaneously, a maneuver many have tried, won’t do it. Flooding the feed might raise awareness of a design, but a true “It” jewel has to grow in popularity somewhat organically. Perhaps a celebrity or two wears it repeatedly, which is code to all that they own it. Or there is some substantial editorial coverage. A general consensus builds over years.
Sometimes designs climb to the heights, fade and then hit again with a new generation or different audience. Cartier’s Love and Just un Clou bracelets designed by Aldo Cipullo, were launched in 1969 and 1971 respectively, became wildly popular, kind of disappeared and then hit the same heights of success again, if not greater, in the 2010s with the relaunch of Just un Clou. Owning these jewels and flaunting them on Instagram was considered an early social media luxury flex.
These icons have something in common with today’s “It” jewels. They came from one designer’s heartfelt ideas and they were born in a period when jewelry shifted down from a high etiquette mode to laid back, easy-to-wear with everything styles. People still look for this quality in their frequent flying jewels.
Find out the stories behind the “It” jewels that are on top of wish lists now. And since the 2020s have become an era of dupes and fascinating corporate responses to drama, I have added that element into the story as well.
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