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At Large: Maria Shollenbarger

Intelligence, counsel and opinions from the long-time travel editor of the FT's HTSI magazine.

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Why I'm (still) bullish on Genoa.

La Superba's been having a bit of a rough patch. But don't all good cities, sometimes?

Is Sumba going off...?

The Indo island feels well and truly on the up. And NIHI is - for now - still the GOAT

Portugal, Puglia, Mendocino, Marrakech: the midsummer inventory

Places that made impressions; places I'm eyeing — and booking

Revisiting a Chianti GOAT

Come for the wine, stay for the happy-monk vibes: Badia a Coltibuono still has it.

Palermo: One history, two sleeps

With — warning — a long-ish backstory, and my new favourite hotel bar in Italy.

A conversation with: Pepi Marchetti Franchi

Meet the woman who really does hold the keys to the Secret-Italy kingdom.

Carmel-by-the-Sea pt. 3 - out and about

Hikes, walks, beaches and stuff in and around town

The Carmel-by-the-Sea edit, pt. 2

...where to EAT and DRINK — with a couple of rogue incursions into Carmel Valley and down the Big Sur (whence your bucket-list breakfast).

The Carmel-by-the-Sea edit, pt. 1

The Monterey Peninsula's 'destination' village is my town (ish); here's how I like to do it.

Club Singolina: A hymn to the single hotel room

....and the salutary effects of humbler spaces in big old 2026