I Ought to Ask For Waves More Often

In my last blah blah, I was reporting on the lack of chest to head high surf this June/July of ‘26. Then, the very next day after writing that, some fun chest to head high surf just magically appeared! And then for the next week or two thereafter we had a fairly decent run of fun-sized summer surf! Who knew that complaining via printed word could yield results from Poseidon/Neptune or the Diosa del Mar! Go figure!! Apparently I ought to complain in print more often!

Anyhow yeah, fun waves the very next day and perfect for the 5’8” Ci G-Skate. Actually ended up at two different spots, both at about waist to chest high with some occasional head high sets. Thank God, it’s been a while. Session one at spot 2486 was decent-sized, but most of the sets were shutting down. The swell angle was not agreeable to the bottom contours at that spot, so despite the size, it really wasn’t all that good. So after a one hour session there, I got out and hopped in the car to head over to spot number 72846. Pulling up in the lot, heading over the dune, wow! Glassy, fun, uncrowded chest high surf, perfect for a fish or longboard.

I first paddled out on my 5’8”, caught a few good ones, and sunk my fins into a nice bottom turn/top-turn combo on one wave, flaying the top straight off and throwing spray all over one of my mates, who was staring all googly-eyed from the shoulder. After that I caught a few more shortboard waves, but then they started to fade and drop off a bit. So after another 30-40 minutes, I went back in to grab by 9’6” log, and paddled back out. The rest of that longboard session was fun too, albeit back down to waist high, it was super glassy and ended with a beautiful sunset, a logjammer’s paradise.

The next ten days or so we had waves most every day, somewhere in the thigh to waist to nipple high range. Plenty of fun summer surf to be had on your log, fish, or beefed up small wave shortboard. Personally, I have kept to the log, but the under 150 lb groms have been having a blast on pretty much whatever they feel like riding. Yesterday morning into the afternoon was super fun and clean with offshore winds too! Plenty O fun indeed! I was working and couldn’t get in until the evening, but even with the light onshores it was still quite fun after work and the water’s now super warm! Yay August!! The beginning of the hurricane season is upon us, and the late summer water temps here in Li are hard to beat.

So please Poseidon/Neptune and/or the Diosa del Mar, please do bless us and bring us big and glassy waves for the next few months at least! Please O please and pretty please, with overflowing bowls of cherries and then some on top times infinity! Please do bless us with months on end of pumping glassy surf with offshore winds!!

Alright folks that’s it for now. Please do keep your eyes peeled for some art of mine in print, with an article by local legend Dylan Stott, in one of the forthcoming issues of Session Magazine. Should def be a fun read and it’s always an occasion when surfing is represented in bound and printed matter, as opposed to digital LED backlit screens. Pray for surf!