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Pizza Tourist · Jul 11, 2026

The French Riviera has it's own pizza

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Ines Glaser · Pizza Tourist

Tan legs, bitter drinks, pétanque, pastel-colored buildings where the light meets the sea. I encourage you to split your time between the coast and a small village inland in the French Alps. With a jump in the sea, or a pool to plunge in…

Dear Pizza Tourists,

At noon in Nice you’ll hear the sound of a cannon go off every day. In the 19th century, Sir Thomas Coventry, a Scottish Lord, would spend his winters on the French Riviera with his wife. They say she was a social woman, who would go for morning walks and get distracted at the local markets speaking with friends. Her husband didn’t want to dine alone, so he financed a cannon to go off every day at noon to remind her to come home for lunch. Today, the city of Nice sets off a giant firecracker in lieu of the cannon, reminding the local Niçoise that it’s time for lunch.

  • Pizza on the French Riviera

  • A bucket list for your next trip

  • A chef-driven guide to some of my favorite spots

  • A review of three destination hotels

  • What I’m reading…

It comes in the form of socca and pissaladière. Socca is a chickpea pancake fried in olive oil. It’s served torn up, with flakey salt. In Italy it’s known as farinata, in Marseille panisse. And of course everyone is passionate about where it came from first.

Pissaladière & Socca

You may have noticed that I am obsessed with Pissadalière. Caramelized onions, anchovies, Niçoise olives, and thyme on a flat bread. To me – it’s kind of like the Margherita. You’ll find them at boulangeries and farmers market stands all along the South of France. Everyone’s got a different take on the dough.

Nice is nice ;) You shouldn’t skip Nice. Like any port town, it can be dirty, there can be petty crime, but it’s so internationally diverse, holds a passion for Provençal cooking, and the restaurants are amazing. The color of the pastel buildings against the blue sky fill your heart with peace.

  1. Eat socca, a chickpea pancake that is said to be the “pizza” of Nice.

  2. Eat pissaladière, a caramelized onion tart/pizza.

  3. Have a glass of wine on a cafe terrace (pick a seat outside the restaurant with the best people watching view).

  4. Try tapenades from a local market. With a crusty baguette!

  5. Eat Salade Niçoise. The famous Niçoise salad holds culinary governance from locals on how it’s prepared.

  6. Eat Pan Bagnat – translates to “bathed bread”. It’s basically a Salad Niçoise in a sandwich with red wine vinegar that soaks in a hearty bread. A perfect beach sandwich?

  7. Have a picnic with what you find at the local farmers market. Beach, road-side river, in your hotel room!

  8. Eat barbajuan - stuffed, fried ravioli

  9. Find a croissant from a boulangerie not on your list. You don’t need to stand in line for a croissant.

  10. Play pétanque in the park. Preferably with old men. Or at least sit on a bench (without your phone) and watch a game.

  11. Stay in a random French village with a pool

  12. Eat a long Seafood lunch with a glass of Provençal rosé

  13. Have a late night out dancing at a discothèque. Make new dance floor friends.

Nice is nice!
  • Farmers Markets at LE MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS and LE MARCHÉ DE LA LIBÉRATION.

  • Pan Bagnat at KIOSQUE TIN TIN. Where the locals get sandwiches after the market.

Read the original on lupacotta.substack.com

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