Three and a half months, so many stops, two dozen different homes, a lot of walking, countless bus rides, dozens of unfamiliar streets, rainy afternoons matched by epic beach days, spontaneous detours, and more quality time together as a family than we’ve ever quite had. While my husband and two kids (14 and 11 years old) and I traveled throughout Portugal, England, France, and many different corners of Spain, it was San Sebastián, that became home for nearly two of those months.
Unpacking our four suitcases and four backpacks into a two bed apartment in the Antiguo neighborhood of town, five minutes from Ondarreta Beach, we eagerly built a (temporary) version of everyday life in Donostia. Slowly, we found our favorite coffee shops, our favorite bakery for croissants and baguettes, the best small grocer for fresh fruit and the sweetest butcher (only open for 3 hours a day). We walked our new streets each morning and little-by-little we began to feel less like visitors and more like temporary locals; the kind of feeling I think many of us are chasing when we travel.
Not to feel like a bumbling tourist, but rather, a local who is familiar with their way around knowing just the right spots to duck into without a reservation, no map needed, greeted by a friendly recognition in passing by.
One of the greatest gifts of this trip was getting to see and visit so many different friends from Madrid to Lisbon, Devon to London, Barcelona to Sevilla. While in Basque Country though, we were able to spend a lot of time with those who have (officially) built their lives in San Sebastián. Our monthly Well Traveled contributor, Elisa Maria, (who is currently taking a maternity break!) welcomed us into her world and home with such loving arms, generously and enthusiastically introducing us to all the places she loves most, reminding me that the best parts of travel are almost always the people who shape your experience of a place.
San Sebastián (Donostia as called by locals) is a city for delicious food, for nature lovers, for ocean lovers, for those who want to take their time and relish in every bite, each sip of wine, each walk along the wild coastlines.
After two months there, I left with an enormous appreciation for this corner of the world and the rich, passionate, cultural gem that is Basque Country.
Simply put, San Sebastián is a city for people who LOVE FOOD.
So the best place to begin recommending what I enjoyed most about getting to know this wonderful region, is to start with where I loved to eat in this beautiful city by the Bay. This list could easily be twice as long, but these are the places we found ourselves returning to again and again:
Coffee Shops: Simona, Rompe Huevos, Somos
Rekondo - An unforgettable dinner. Be sure to ask to see the wine cellar.
Akelarre - Go for a drink on the terrace overlooking the sea.
Casa Cámara - Worth the journey for lunch alone. Reserve ahead.
Bar Desy - One of the best burgers in town.
Kaisushi - Exceptional sushi. Reservations encouraged.
Driper - Our favorite neighborhood spot in Gros for coffee and breakfast sandwiches (also open Friday evenings).
Narru - Perfect for date night in the heart of the city.
Portuetxe - A charming old-school Basque restaurant made for long weekend lunches.
El Kbzon - Korean-inspired pintxos in Gros.
La Viña - Order a glass of Txakoli and don’t leave without trying the original Basque cheesecake.
And because the best recommendations always come from locals, Elisa Maria also shared a few more of her favorites:
Boui Boui - the perfect stop for picnic provisions before heading to the beach. ❤️
I have a lot more to say about this very special place (and time of life for me) which I’ll be sharing in upcoming posts. But for now, I think I’ve given you just the right amount to sink your teeth into.
I’m getting hungry just writing this…
I’d love to know - have you been to San Sebastián yet before? Did you have any extra special spots you loved?
-Molly x
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