Eric’s, Dubai restaurant review: ‘A capsule of Goa that belongs entirely to Karama’
Twenty years of Goan cooking, and what survives when a cuisine travels.
Liam Collens
Food, culture and observation from Dubai, Piemonte, London and the places worth crossing a city for.
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Amused Bouche 08
Bite-sized if not biting commentary. In this issue: nobody wants a mixed verdict, eating through a 49C Dubai summer and saying goodbye to a one-eyed cat.
ROW on 45, Dubai — Restaurant Revisited.
Three years after finding a great restaurant hiding inside an overworked one, has ROW on 45 done the work it promises?
Taqueria Freedah, Dubai restaurant review. “It runs both hot and cold.”
Uninvited Opinion. At Taqueria Freedah, the room is warm, the beer is cold and the off-menu item is worth the sweat.
Amused Bouche 007
Bite-sized if not biting commentary. In this issue: the real World Cup battle is not on the pitch; a three Michelin starred restaurant loosens its tie; ChatGPT creates my footballer love child + more.
Something for the Weekend: The Long Dark Summer
My son is waiting for his friends to return in September. So are Dubai’s restaurants. Neither of them knows if they will.
La Fonte - Ristorante Vineria Enoteca, Acqui Terme restaurant review. “Without a Guiding Hand”
Uninvited Opinion. La Fonte has the room, the wine list, the terrace and the talent. What it lacks is someone to say no.
Tong Fong Fatt, Dubai restaurant review. "Singaporeans Eat Here. That's Enough."
Uninvited Opinion. My quest for an incomparable Hainanese chicken rice continues. Al Barsha gestures towards a credible, if imperfect, sanctuary.
The Devonshire, London restaurant review. “It’s Fine.”
The Devonshire has been praised so enthusiastic, and for so long, that criticism feels almost impolite. After dinner in the Grill Room, I found myself thinking less about the food and more about what happens when consensus becomes accepted truth.
Amused Bouche 06
Bite-sized if not biting commentary. In this issue: Italian renovations, cookbook celebrations, restaurant openings, supermarket collaborations and my increasingly middle-aged hobbies.