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let them eat cake

A newsletter about food and value.

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no. 124: diane

This morning I rolled out of bed declaring that I was off to make the dogs some Steak Diane, but neither D – for whom this dish is surely named – nor I could remember what the hell Steak Diane actually was.

the quarterly review of sandwiches, vol 2 issue 2

The problem with writing a quarterly review of sandwiches is that you wind up eating more sandwiches.

no. 122: the biggest river in london

This isn’t really my beat, but Isaac Rangaswami’s, or Jonathan Nunn’s, you should go read what they have to say after finishing this.

no. 121: a short list of almost perfect bars

When we opened our restaurant, we changed the menu every week, sometimes more than once.

no. 120: great american

I’ve written much about the Singaporean food I ate growing up: lou arh, chicken curry, kueh. I have not written about the American food.

no. 119: a month

This is another chapter of the first book I wrote.

no. 118: quarterly

This substack might be turning into the Quarterly Review of Sandwiches and I’m OK with that.

day tripping

Hullo to readers old and new!

no. 117: one kind of bread

If you’ve been reading a while, you’ve probably seen a picture like this.

no. 116: really sharp pencils

An interview with the folks at Balthazar