Hi, I’m Clara—and I’m thrilled that Circle Back asked me to share this guide. I spent just over a month in Rome this past May while working on the TV show, Emily in Paris, and in between shooting, I made it my mission to eat and wander.
Rome is one of those places where even the simplest dishes taste amazing, but the truly excellent meals and hidden gems take a little research. (I have to shout out my lovely friend, Bea, who had been living in Rome as a chef at the American Academy, and Katie Parla, an amazing food writer — I took a lot of recommendations from the two of them!)
I had just lost my mom a month before arriving in Rome, and I truly didn’t know how I’d feel—homesick, grief-stricken, or some messy combination of both. But I was struck by how deeply embraced I felt by the city. Maybe it was the comfort of anonymity, maybe it was the chance to escape my reality back home, but more than anything, I think it was the city itself: warm, familial, and loving.
This guide is my love letter to the trattorias, gelaterias, and specialty stores that I haven’t stopped thinking about.
FOOD:
A Roman family friend told me that great food in Rome is easy - pizza or a delicious bowl of pasta is always base-level delicious, but truly excellent food is hard. Below are places I think are excellent!!!
l'Antidoto, Al Moro, Trecca
Antico Forno Roscioli. Get lunch at the grab-and-go counter. Everything is amazing. Can’t go wrong with anything savory. I loved the pistachio cake. Eat at the park nearby! (Stop at the great vintage store next door: Vintage Avenue 31. Also, walk around the Jewish quarter since it’s right by there!)
Enoteca L’Antidoto. If you’re feeling a wine bar with inventive, Noma-y, Japanese-influenced food, go to Enoteca L’Antidoto. The menu changes daily. If they’re serving tuna in any form, get it. Make sure to talk to the chef and the sommelier! There are very few places like this in Rome. Shout out to a friend of mine who had a very chic little rendezvous with the sommelier.
Pizzeria Leonina and Forno Al Milvio. The secret to getting vegetables in Rome for lunch is to go to a pizzeria and grab slices of pizza and a side of roasted veg or a salad! Love Leonina for a quick and cheap on-the-go dinner too. Eat at either place (they’re close together) if you’re going to the Colosseum or Palatine Hill.
Trecca. If you’re looking for a very special meal that does the classics SO well but is also a cool “neo bistro” with interesting young chefs, go to Trecca. I went for lunch, but it’s equally amazing for dinner. I still think about the fried zucchini in vinegar, the roasted eggplant, and the amatriciana. It’s a little out of the way, but only about 20 minutes via cab out of the center and SO worth it.
Al Moro. Very old school. Fancy Italian. A great place to get all the classics. It’s right by the Trevi fountain, but it’s not a tourist trap. So many people told me to go.
Ristorante Rocco. Absolutely delish. The menu changes every day and it’s on a blackboard, so you know it’s serious. I had an amazing lemon and bottarga pasta here that I’m still thinking about. Also silky anchovies with bread and butter. Sat next to Logan Lerman here lol.
Trattoria de Cesare. Go to the location slightly away from the city (de Cesare), NOT Pellegrino. If you’re feeling like an urban hike, you could even walk there from the city center. I had their famous cacio e Pepe—and it does live up to the hype. It’s worth noting that I had a negative experience at the Pellegrino location. The restaurant was filled with so many Americans and the pasta was boring.
Trattoria Ai Due Ponte. A little outside the center but also incredibly worth it. We were the only Americans. Order the Maialino (crispy suckling pig) and the carbonara! This was tied for the best carbonara I had. Artichokes were also incredible!
Romané. The best chicken cacciatore I’ve ever had. I dream about sopping up the vinegar-y sauce with sourdough. Also tied for best carbonara. Eggplant parm is a standout, too.
Osteria Chiana. Delish pasta, reliable, casual vibe! Everyone here is Italian!
Faro. Great coffee and cute brunch-y vibe - Rome doesn’t really do brunch or breakfast. You get a pastry as you slam down coffee at the bar. But Faro is similar to a classic American coffee/brunch spot with great eggs!
Spots I wish I had time to go to: Armando Al Pantheon (get a res ahead of time!), Trattoria Penestri, Santo Palato (get a res ahead of time!), 33 Giri Listening Bar, Piperno, Pecorino
SKIP: Taverna Trilussa (it so expensive and bad (!!!). The pasta was so oily!); Tonnarella and Nonnarella (super touristy); Osteria da Fortunata (don’t waste time in the line!); All’Antico Vinaio; Mercato Centrale (great if you’re catching a train but otherwise it’s a glorified food court)
And for reference these are the most classic Roman dishes that you will have again and again (and let me say, even after a month, I wasn’t tired of them)
GELATO:
I ate SO much gelato and can confidently say these are the best!
Gelateria del Teatro (if you go to one, it should be this!). They have my favorite nutty flavors in all of Rome: pistachio, almond, and hazelnut...and trust me, I tried a LOT of pistachio and hazelnut. The licorice and cinnamon are also standouts. I also loved the lemon, honey, and rosemary (one flavor).
Gelateria di San Crispino. I will never stop thinking about the hazelnut meringue flavor. The ginger, cinnamon and pear are also amazing, but I dream about the chunks of meringue.
Otaleg. The flavors are adventurous and really intense here. The coffee is borderline bitter, almost savory, a lot of the flavors are, but go and experience the cutting edge of gelato! I loved the almond honey flavor. The crunchy nut flavor is also really interesting. I wish I tried the pineapple cinnamon.
Fatomorgana. Amazing, inventive flavors. The fresh mint chip and the carrot cake were my favorites. I liked the lemon basil, but it was a little icy!
Giolitti. It’s great, but very chaotic. So many flavors, so little time, and so many people pushing you to get to the front. The sour cherry is incredible though.
Gelateria Cecere. Right by the Trevi fountain and a good respite from the crowds. The yogurt and cookies (one flavor) is amazing. The tanginess of the yogurt! Pistachio is also great here too! Very fluffy.
Other places I wanted to try but didn’t have time: Old Bridge (Leonardo diCaprio’s driver told me this was his favorite place and he went everyday lol), Gelateria Artigianale Corona, and Gelateria Tony.
SKIP: Gelateria Della Palma and all the big chains (Gelatist, Gunther, Gelateria La Romana, Venchi)
SHOPPING
Alysi. Amazing small Roman designer. I loved the pieces I got—a brown slip dress with a beautiful print and a butter yellow oversized trench! If you want to get a few very special things from Rome then this store is a must.
Lesley Luxury Vintage. If you go to one consignment/vintage store, let it be this one. They have two locations: one by the Borghese gardens and one by the Spanish steps.
Twice Vintage Shop. in Trastevere. Great selection, great prices. Got two shirts I wear all the time!
Butcher. Right next to Twice Vintage Shop. They have an incredible selection of men/womens sambas and other Adidas styles I had never seen before. I got my new favorite pair of shoes here—they are brown and butter yellow (which are the colors of the two items I got from Alysi!). Maybe those two colors were my colors of the trip.
Vere Pelle Schegge. If you want to get a great leather bag, this is where to go. Amazing prices and quality. I got a Balenciaga dupe! Great for presents. Also got a cute Bottega dupe for a friend. Walk along the street this store is on! A few other gems and great vintage.
Atelier Bomba. I didn’t get to go, but I heard amazing things! It’s repurposed designer clothing.
OTHER MUST DOs:
Villa Borghese (get tickets ahead)
Walk around the Borghese gardens
MACRO museum
Palazzo Barberini
Palatine Hill - if you’ve already been to the Colosseum on a previous trip or aren’t feeling like braving the crowds, just walk around Palatine Hill and see the forum/the outside of the Colosseum so you can check seeing ruins off your list
Not necessary if you’re just in Rome for a few days, but I did a cooking class at Roscioli and loved it!
Sunday flea markets
THE IDEAL DAY:
Start by grabbing a coffee and a pastry at Mostro. I highly recommend the rose bun. Look at the pyramid across the street!
Walk to Mercato di Testacio for lunch (this is a must!). Sample from a bunch of different places, you can’t go wrong. Make sure you don’t skip Mercato di Testacio when you go to Rome!!!
Walk to Twice Vintage Shop in Trastevere. Lots of good shops on that street.
Get gelato at Otaleg on the street behind! Definitely get a wild flavor.
Go to Villa Farnesina if you have time (can also be saved for another day)
Luxurious items for your teeth to your toes and everything in between, made in Italy.
Knitted in Capri, the 100% wool Luno long sleeve from Sono is a British label from design alums of The Row and LEMAIRE. Incredibly chic.
Carnation Scrunchie from Maryam Nassir Zadeh in colorway ‘Golden Olive.’. Doesn’t get more Italian than that.
Swedish Stockings are, in fact, not Scandinavian, but made in Italy!
The Incised Oval Tray by Match is designed as a modern heirloom in the making
The Pouch by Porto Studio is a cloud for your belongings
The Italians have mastered turning the mundane into luxury and this handmade toothbrush is a prime example
The softest Namok Socks, which are made from sheep and produced in a small, family-run factory in an Italian village
La Marzocco makes a perfect Italian espresso every time
The description of Fane’s Bra Bag is too good not to include: “Created by a play of darts, the gentle curves of this ultra-slim design recall the volume of a bra. The Bra bag has been designed to sit comfortably in the hollow of the hip, with a slim ribbon-like shoulder strap. ”
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