A pre-travel guide to Paris

Ilana here! I’m soliciting your Paris stories, recommendations, memories—I’m en route!!

Growing up, I had a map of Paris next to a poster of the Eiffel Tower on my wall. You may know the one. My mom helped me frame the posters, elevating them and my idea of Paris, to masterpieces. My love for Paris grew, evidenced by decoupaged collages of fashion weeks and Chanel ads, a well-loved Devil Wears Prada DVD, Yelle on my iPod, and the pursuit of French language.

Thinking about Paris made me feel creative, hopeful, and probably sexy before I knew how to label it as such. I wanted flakey croissants in bistro chairs, rouge lips, and perfectly tousled hair. In high school, I had the opportunity to realize this dream, traveling to the City of Lights with my French class. I came out of that trip feeling let down and betrayed. I did NOT care for Paris. Looking back I can’t exactly pinpoint why, but it’s hard to reconcile fantasy with reality, and I moved on from my love of Paris.

In college, I decided to revisit my Parisian fantasies. I enrolled in French class. In my Western Architecture course, I was thrown into mid-nineteenth-century Paris and Baron Haussmann’s urban renewal campaign under Napoleon III, which transformed medieval Paris into the modern city we largely see today.

Revisiting Paris through the lens of architecture and planning reframed my view and helped me make sense of my own interest in studying cities. Paris is an architectural record, one I was motivated to read, sketch, critique, and observe. So, I went back to Paris, this time for a half-marathon—what better way to see the wide boulevard and detailed facades I’d studied, right?! 13.1 rainy, windy miles and a horrible scam with a French doctor later, I was yet again thrilled to leave Paris.

Writing this, I’m in the air, a few hours away from my third adventure to Paris, this time for a very special trip with close friends and some solo time on the back end. With a strong sense of self, solidified taste, and a general lust for solo travel I’m entering this trip with an open mind and heart, ready to receive Paris yet again.

Since no good trip can begin without soliciting recommendations from trusted sources, from my esthetician to friends and lovers of friends, I’ve started to compile them all (150+ and counting) but I’m open to even more. Tell me your Paris fantasies, tales of romantic evenings, secret menus, rooftop views, hidden galleries, the best pain au chocolat, your most elusive vintage finds.

And for my own record…a few spots that were recommended multiple times and/or particularly piqued my interest:

Eat: Clown Bar, Early June, Gibon, Deux Gares Express, Chez Carrie

Art: Gerhard Richter (retrospective) at Louis Vuitton Foundation; Minimal (exhibition) at Bourse

Drink: Septime la cave, Folderol, Recoin

Shop: Merci, Bobby, the Room, Palace Callas Vintage, Thx God I’m a VIP

On this trip I’m reading Giovanni’s Room (merci Lindsay + Miloš for the reco!), sketching in a teeny tiny notebook (merci Sylvie!), and listening to lots of Blood Orange, Her’s, the Marias, and Barry Can’t Swim.

Perhaps third time is the charm? I’ll circle back soon.