In my never ending quest for heritage production in the UK, I recently planned a whole weekend away around two working mills within two miles of each other on the same stretch of River Test in Hampshire. Add in a peaceful country house stay, the real Downton Abbey castle visit, and a delicious lunch in Oxford, and you’ve got yourself a solid one-night escape from the heat of London.
Here’s my entire itinerary, crafted for those who seek a short getaway to the English countryside. You leave London Saturday morning and you’re back on Sunday by late afternoon. One night, one bag, one open road. Let’s go!
Saturday Morning: Whitchurch Silk Mill
An hour and change down the M3 from London (about 60 miles), Whitchurch is a small Hampshire town on the River Test. The Whitchurch Silk Mill is a Georgian water mill in town, which is the oldest working silk mill in Britain still weaving in its original building. When we visited, the waterwheel was not turning due to the extreme heat, so unfortunately we could not see the mill in action. However, in normal temperatures it does, in fact, still turn and the Victorian machinery upstairs still winds silk that gets woven on the looms in the ground-floor weaving shed.
The mill has woven silk for legal and academic robes, period costume dramas, and historic interiors. There is also a riverside cafe, where you can get a coffee and a light snack before you head out with a nice view of the river. The gift shop is small but well-stocked with silk scarves made on site. I walked away with a long piece of handmade silk ribbon, which I plan to use as a sash belt or a head scarf. There are currently only four silk ribbon weavers in the UK, one of which is employed by Whitchurch Silk Mill. So cool to have found this unique example of a traditional craft.
Whitchurch also has a literary claim to fame. Richard Adams, author of Watership Down, lived on Church Street (a few minutes’ walk from the mill) for more than twenty years and is buried in the town cemetery. Adams grew up just outside Newbury and frequently explored the outdoors as a child. Decades later, when he improvised a rabbit story to entertain his daughters on a car trip, he used the familiar landscape as the setting for his tale. You’ll skirt that same stretch of downland (rolling grassy hills) on Sunday morning’s drive to Highclere.
Saturday Afternoon: Bombay Sapphire Distillery at Laverstoke Mill
Two miles up the river is the second mill on our itinerary. Interestingly enough, Laverstoke Mill first appeared in the Domesday Book of 1086 (man, this country is old). The mill’s rich industrial story truly began in the early 1700s, however. The Portals, a family of French Huguenots, transformed the mill into a leading hub for banknote paper production. This is where the innovative watermark was created, and by the 1950s, Laverstoke Mill was supplying banknote paper to over 100 banks around the globe.
You can still have a drink inside The Vault, one of the four robust strong rooms, constructed to safeguard banknote paper (hence the fortified ironclad windows and an iron door to protect against theft). At least two of these secure rooms have since been converted into chic bathrooms.
With its monetary chapter in the past, now the mill makes gin. Every drop of Bombay Sapphire sold worldwide is distilled at Laverstoke! We didn’t book a guided tour of the distillery, but you can certainly do that and see how the gin gets made. Instead, we decided to have cocktails by the mill (G&T for me and a gin martini for my husband).
Saturday Night: The Retreat at Elcot Park
From Laverstoke, it’s about 25 minutes’ drive north to Elcot, where an 18th-century red brick house overlooks the North Wessex Downs (remember, the “downs” are actually hills in British). The house was built in the late 18th century and acquired a new wing later to accommodate more guest rooms, in addition to a spa, an outdoor pool, and two restaurants. We didn’t try the spa, which looked very relaxing, but did partake in some pool and relaxation time.
We ate at the 1772, the all-day brasserie named for the year the house was built. The food was good and the views were excellent. Book your dinner reservation when you book the room, especially on a Saturday. A local car enthusiast club was having a meet-up at the hotel when we were there, so the parking lot was full of classic cars and the motorists rented out the private reception room for their get-together in the countryside.
Sunday Morning: Highclere Castle
Twenty minutes’ drive from Elcot Park, and you will be humming the theme song to yourself before you know it. Highclere Castle is Downton Abbey as you’ll recognize immediately from the TV show. It is still the private home of the Earl and Countess of Carnarvon, which is why there are only specific times during the year that you can visit. The summer opening runs from mid-July to early September, so book your Highclere tickets in advance since they definitely sell out.
You can walk through the interior rooms, where a lot of the scenes from Downton Abbey were filmed (no photography inside). Interestingly, the castle already had period appropriate furniture, so the TV set designers just asked the family to use what was there. So, the big dining room table you see in many episodes is still there to see as well as the rugs and other furniture pieces. There is also a desk that once belonged to Napoleon that you can see in one of the drawing rooms!
We didn’t realize this before we came but the basement of the castle now holds the Egyptian Exhibition, and there is a wild story that goes with it. The 5th Earl of Carnarvon financed Howard Carter’s excavations in the Valley of the Kings. In 1922, the two of them opened the tomb of Tutankhamun, the first pharaoh's tomb ever found essentially undisturbed, and the most famous archaeological discovery ever made.
The exhibition downstairs traces the whole saga, including the Earl’s death in Cairo only months later from sepsis from an infected mosquito bite he nicked while shaving. The city’s lights reportedly went out at the moment of his death and his dog at Highclere allegedly died at exactly the same time. This led to hundreds of stories related to the curse of the pharaohs and how King Tut’s tomb should not have been disturbed. Arthur Conan Doyle, for example, told reporters an avenging spirit might be responsible; and for years, any death loosely connected to the excavation got added to the curse’s tally. My favorite story goes that King Tut also died from sepsis that resulted from a chariot race accident - coincidence? You decide after you visit the exhibit or read more about the controversy here.
Sunday Lunch: Oxford
From Highclere it’s about 45 minutes up the road to Oxford, which puts you there in time for Sunday lunch. Our visits to Oxford always feel a bit like coming home. We always stay at the Old Parsonage Hotel, located just a short walk away from the heart of Oxford. We actually first came here for our honeymoon and my in-laws have been staying here since the 1970s. Even if you are not staying here, call them for a lunch reservation and ask to sit on the outdoor terrace. The food is excellent and the vibes are good.
Next door to the hotel is St. Giles’ Church, which dates back to the 12th century and family lore has it that some of my husband’s ancestors from many generations back were married there. I love hearing the church bells from the outdoor terrace facing the church at the hotel.
Another option for lunch is Gees Restaurant and Bar, where you can sit in the outdoor courtyard, which gets a nice breeze even on the hottest day. In the past, we’ve enjoyed a hearty lunch of soup, pasta, and salad. I also love seeing all of the potted geraniums in their greenhouse dining room. It’s a great, family-friendly spot for a delicious meal, but definitely make a reservation!
Before heading home, stop by Objects of Use, a cute shop near the Oxford Covered Market. Every item is designed to be both beautiful and useful - from handmade kitchen tools to small household treasures. In the past, I’ve picked up a pair of French rabbit embroidery scissors from Nogent, France, a town known for its fine cutlery since the 14th century - a perfect addition to my needlepoint kit.
From Oxford you’re an easy 1.5 hours’ drive away from London, so you will be home before the Sunday sun sets with gin and silk in tow.
The Logistics:
Book first: Highclere Castle (open Sun–Thu in summer only)
Book second: Bombay Sapphire Discovery Experience (Fri–Sun; pre-booking required)
Book third: The Retreat at Elcot Park + dinner and spa reservation
No booking ahead needed: Whitchurch Silk Mill (Closed on Mondays)
Driving times: London → Whitchurch ~1h15 · Whitchurch → Laverstoke ~5 min · Laverstoke → Elcot Park ~25 min · Elcot Park → Highclere ~20 min · Highclere → Oxford ~45 min · Oxford → London ~1h30
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