Since we’ve moved west, deeper into north-central Florida, we’re only 90 minutes from a favorite Old Florida location. On a recent Sunday afternoon, enjoying the cool behind a cold front, we jumped in the car and headed to Wakulla Springs, a first magnitude spring—one of the world’s deepest and with an extensive cave system. (And, no. You’re not getting me to dive in there!)
Several early Tarzan films and underwater scenes from the 1977 disaster movie, Airport 77, (not the 1980 comedy Airplane!) were filmed in the crystal-clear waters.
But for many of us, its real claim to fame is the 1950s classic, The Creature of the Black Lagoon—a movie filmed before my time, but a favorite and frequent Creature Feature TV broadcast during my 1970s childhood.
Unfortunately, glass-bottom boat tours have been discontinued as the water is now too murky to see much through the tannin and algae. The solid-bottom boats are still a wonderful opportunity to spot alligators, other bank-side critters, and manatees during the winter months.
On our recent visit, the water looked very clear, at least in the shallows from my dockside view.
But none of this explains my compulsion to go there. What brings me back is the hotel generally:
And lobby’s ceiling makes me squeal:
Edward Ball, a poor-born financier whose first big break was his sister’s marriage to Alfred I. du Pont, followed the prestigious couple to Florida and on du Pont’s death managed his sister’s vast assets, including Florida land and railways. In 1937, he purchased the land surrounding Wakulla Springs and constructed the Lodge as a guest house, employing local craftsmen to build his retreat.1
This also feeds my fascination: What of these local craftsmen? Who were they? The county’s population in the 1930s was only around 5,400 and largely impoverished. Who painted this ceiling? My imagination wants to hear their story.
The other thrill for me is that the structure retains so much of its original design and materials. It is not a huge building—not in league with the grand Flagler hotels in St. Augustine. It is much more modest, with 27 guestrooms, a common room, restaurant, and enclosed veranda overlooking the lawn down to the swimming hole of the spring.
We spent one night there a few years ago just to inhabit a place of history that is neither overly renovated nor roped off. It allows the imagination some freedom not found in more polished relics.
I would love to spend a month there drafting a story set in Old Florida…
Farewell, O Syria:
Cover design is complete
Interior design under way
Prior home sale: closed.
New home: under contract and we’re past the main inspection phase. Have a couple of other inspections to complete.
Sedikit demi sedikit, lama lama jadi bukit. (Little by little, over time becomes a mountain.)
Take courage!
~ Lausanne
Thanks for reading Long Ago & Far Away! This post is public so feel free to share it.
In the late 1960s, Ball donated the lodge and land surrounding the spring to the state of Florida. It is now run by the state park system. The Lodge’s website has an extensive article on Ball’s life and work here.
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