Stockholm Syndrome

I have been traveling to Sweden since the summer of 1998 and have lived here permanently since 2022. The question I get asked most frequently by visitors, friends and internet acquaintances alike, is where should I go in Stockholm? Where should I stay? Where should I eat? What should I see? What are the best places for kids? And of course where should I shop? I have loved fashion my whole life and been a professional shopper for more than half my life. (Hello 50 this week eek!) If Supermarket Sweep were still a game show, I would have a good shot at winning. Many of our nearest and dearest friends arrive this week for our birthday celebrations so I have finally put together all of my recommendations in one place. Here is my very personal, very biased guide to my new hometown. After four years I am starting to get the hang of it.

The short version.

Hotels

Ett Hem, Grand Hotel, Hotel Nobis, Miss Clara, Hotel Diplomat, Villa Dagmar, Hotel Esplanade, Hotel Skeppsholmen, Stockholm Stadshotell, Elite Hotel Marina Tower

Dining Classic

Prinsen, Sturehof, Riche, Konstnärsbaren (KB), B.A.R., Tennstopet, Operabaren, PA & Co, Lisa Elmqvist, Ulla Winbladh, Den Gyldene Freden, Pastis, Pelikan, Wasahof, Mäster Anders

Dining Modern

Agnes, Ambar, Animo, Babette, Baccanale, BAMBi, Bar Nacka, Bar Nîmes, Cafe Nizza, Ekstedt, Frantzen, Freyja, Madam, Misshumasshu, Minh Mat, ok ok, Prospero, Schmaltz, Solen, Sperling & Co, Stockholm Stadshotell, Sushi Sho, Take Ramen, Triton, Wood Stockholm

Dining Daytime

Bleck, Beirut Cafe, Blå Porten, Freyja, Lisa Elmqvist, Mormors Restaurang & Dumplings, Moderna museet, Nationalmuseum, Rosendals Trädgård, Schmaltz

Bars and Wine Bars

Akkurat (beer) Ambar, Alba Vinbar, Bar Ninja, Crum Heaven, Folii, Lilla Compagniet, Mikkeller (beer), One Tap (tequila and mezcal), Pharmarium, PS Foajé, Riche, Riche Fenix, Savant, Tyge & Sesil, Stockholm Stadshotell, Zum Franziskaner (beerhall)

Bakeries & Cafes (breakfast, lunch and fika)

Art Bakery, Bageri Två Systrar (apple cake to die for), Café Pascal, Café Saturnus, Drop Coffee, Dåndimpens (best bagels,sourdough, daily sadwiches: to hell and gone) Gast Café, Krümel (cookies and matcha), Le Violon Dingue, Lilllebrors Bageri (the best), Robin Delselius, Svedjan Bageri (best in Söder), Skeppsbro Bageri, Socker Sucker (fancy), Stora Bageriet (best allround), Thelins konditori, Vete Katten

Museums & Galleries

Museums: Bonniers Konsthall, Hallwylska Museet, Nationalmuseum, Moderna Museet (new Carsten Höller slides in the back!), Nordiska Museet, Vasamuseet, Skansen, Junibacken, Liljevalchs, Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde, Thielska Galleriet, Tekniska Museet, Sven Harrys Konstmuseum, Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseet, Millesgården (Lidingö), Hospitalet Stockholm (Nacka), Artipelag (Gustavsberg) Auction houses: Stockholms Auktionsverk, Bukowskis Galleries: Carling Dalenson, Galleri Magnus Karlsson, Wetterling Gallery, Saskia Neuman Gallery, Galerie Nordenhake, Gallery Steinsland Berliner

Shopping (see my closet edit for Stockholm here)

Home: Svenskt Tenn, Malmstenbutiken, Re:Deco, Ribbhagen & Sørsand Antik, Nordiska Galleriet, A la Carte Antik, Studio Cathy Nordström, Märta Måås-Fjetterström, Layered, Nordic Knots, NK, Jacksons Design, Modernity, Dusty Deco, Tambur, An Ideal For Living, Byggfabriken, Brandstationen, Gustavsberg Fashion: A Day’s March, ATP Atelier, Toteme, Engelbert, Palmgrens, Rosens, Blankens, Byredo, COW Parfymeri, L:a Brucket, Grandpa, Nudie Jeans, 6/5/4 Sportswear: Fjällräven, Hestra, Houdini, Haglöfs, Klättermusen, Peak Performance, KA YO Books: Rönnells Antikvariat, Hedengrens, Adlibris, Akademibokhandeln, English Bookshop Food: Östermalms saluhall, Supermercado, Röt, Urban Deli, Androuet Ost, Melanders Candy: Pärlans konfetyr, Gamla Stan Polkagris Kokeri, Bubs, Pick-and-mix candy at any ICA grocery store Kids: Polarn O Pyret, Mini Rodini, Lucca, Silly Silas

Walks, Parks, Places, Venues

Kungliga slottet and Drottningholm (Royal Palaces), Gamla Stan, Stortorget, Humlegården, Strandvägen, Skeppsholm, Djurgården, Rosendals Trädgård, Östermalms saluhall, Stadshuset, Norr Mälarstrand, Kungsträdgården, Stockholm Central Library (closed for renovation!) Vitabergsparken, Lilla Blecktornsparken, Katarina kyrka, Sofia kyrka, Skinnarviksparken, Långholmsparken, Reimerholme, Skogskyrkogården (Gamla Enskede) Venues: Berwaldhallen, Cirkus, Nalen, Orionteatern, Trädgården, and the most magical kid’s puppet theater Dockteatern Tittut Spas: Sturebadet, Centralbadet (closed for 2026!), Yasuragi

Islands and nature reserves and other spots if you want to go exploring further afield

Stockholm Archipelago Trail, Sandhamn, Grinda, Utö, Finnhamn, Svartsö, Landsort, Möja, Nåttarö, Nynäshamn-Lövhagen, Torö, Nacka Strand, Nyckelviken, Gustavsberg, Yasuragi, Erstaviken, Saltsjöbaden, Älgö, Mariefred, Öland, Gotland

The long version.

Shopping:

Sweden is known for its classic, minimalist, functional design vernacular, so sometimes Swedish brands, especially fashion brands, are more my taste than my personal style, since I am still a maximalist at heart. From Ikea to H&M, Sweden invented fast furniture and fast fashion, but also has a long history of traditional craft and artisanal design. Stockholm is small, with only about 1 million people (less than Austin), and Sweden is a small country of just about 10 million people (less than NYC). So the home market is small, and shopping can feel a bit provincial, despite an insane amount of creativity and the international influence and reach of Swedish companies. That being said, the last time my BFF Ria visited she bought an entire suitcase full of things, and she NEVER shops. So it really is just about finding the niche shops and brands that make Stockholm so singular. I could argue that Swedish men’s and kid’s fashions are even better than the women’s, but that’s a different article. I have created a June shopping edit featuring some of my favorite Swedish designers.

Shopping in Östermalm

Fashion: Östermalm is Stockholm’s version of the Upper East Side. Of course you will find all the big fashion chain brands here, from Chanel, Celine and Bottega to Cos, H&M, &Other Stories and Zara. But you will also find flagship shops of independent and emerging Swedish fashion brands Toteme, Acne Studios, Our Legacy, A Day’s March, Nudie Jeans, A.T.P., Blankens and Rosens, the tiny multi-brand shop where I just bought my Cecilie Bahnsen birthday party dress. No not the Uniqlo one, though they are cute. Sweden has a ton of sporting and technical gear stores too, because Swedes are obsessed with being outside, regardless of the season or weather and they are extremely sporty. Some of my favorites are Haglöfs, Hestra, Klättermusen, Fjällräven, Houdini, YMR Track Club, UNNA and the very cool, very niche, might be more at home in Tokyo, multi-brand running shop KA YO. There is one big multi-brand department store NK, but I really only buy functional things for my house or food in their food hall as I find their fashion and design assortment meh. Stroll up Biblioteksgatan and the small intersecting streets for your fashion fix, or pop into the Byredo flagship for everything heavenly scented and exquisitely packaged. Kungsgatan and Norrlandsgatan for all your sport and technical needs. Here you will find the extremely popular new Bubs store as well as my favorite beauty store COW Parfymeri. But if you want a real candy fix, go into any ICA grocery store and you will find giant aisles of pick and mix candy. Birgerjarlsgatan houses all the major brands and Swedish cult jewelry brand Engelberts. Oscar Jacobson is my go-to for fancy fashion gifts for Nik. Also a shout out to the best Swedish kids brands Polarn Och Pyret and Mini Rodini.

Art & Design: Most of the major design shops, galleries and auction houses are to be found in Östermalm too. If you only have time to go to one store in Stockholm, make it Svenskt Tenn, the singular, magical world of interiors on Strandvagen. The company was established in 1924 by the visionary entrepreneur Estrid Ericson, who recruited Austrian architect and designer Josef Frank a decade later. It was here that Josef Frank was given a unique space to create and throughout the years, he produced over 3,000 drawings and sketches as well as 250 prints that are signed and preserved in Svenskt Tenn’s archive. It is #myprintedlife incarnate, and it is my happiest place. It never fails to inspire. From there, walk up Sibyllegatan and you will pass Palmgrens, the historical Swedish leather and saddlery shop. My favorite antique table top shop is A La Cart Antik right around the corner on Riddergatan, which has whimsical opening hours and an owner that always seems like she doesn’t want to sell you anything. Continue up Nybrogatan to Nordiska Galleriet, Sweden’s other most famous and iconic modern design emporium. And the comparatively new Dusty Deco on Östermalmstorg. I personally own four pieces of furniture from them. They have US distribution and free shipping! Malmstenbutiken, featuring the beautiful designs of iconic Swedish designer Carl Malmsten is just down the street on Humlegårdsgatan. Another niche fabric and wallpaper showroom I love is Cathy Nordström. All of her fabrics and wallpaper are made in Sweden with traditional methods and I use them for every single project I design. But take note, she takes a proper Swedish holiday from now until mid August, so if you are coming soon you will just have to window shop. To see extraordinary Swedish antiques go to Ribbhagen & Sørsand Antik for all things silver and pewter and Jacksons Design and Modernism for the very best of mid-century modern Scandinavian designs. Try to sweet talk your way into a visit to the Jacksons Design warehouse and archive in Frihamn. I always peruse the auctions at Stockholms Auktionverk and Bukowskis for a little bit of everything. Some of my favorite art galleries are Carling Dalenson and Saskia Neumann. I also love Galleri Magnus Karlsson and Galerie Nordenhake. For rugs there are the newbies Layered and Nordic Knots and the most stunning showroom from the weaving and rug archive of Märta Måås-Fjetterström on Strandvagen near Svensk Tenn.

Shopping in Södermalm:

A lot of the brands mentioned above, A Day’s March, A.T.P., Nudie Jeans started with shops and studios in Södermalm. The main shopping street is Götgatan, but it’s more of a high street. You can find Arket, APLACE, Designtorget and Press Stop, one of the few remaining magazine and printed matter shops in the city. Otherwise the best shopping is south of Folkungagatan, on Södermannagatan, Nytorgsgatan and Skånegatan where there are a lot of smaller, independent and multi-brand shops. I like 6/5/4 Stockholm surf shop for Patagonia shorts and perfect colorful tanks and sweatshirts from Colorful Standard and lots of good finds for Nik. Pärlans Konfektyr makes the most amazing caramels and truffles and in the summertime serves insanely delicious seasonal soft-serve. Grandpa is another casual multi-brand store where I have found many favorite things, and has a strong men’s selection as well. There is a tiny hole-in-the-wall vintage ceramics and record shop next door I love called An Ideal for Living. Swedish apothecary L:a Bruket is also right there. I am obsessed with their new limited edition Rhubarb/Geranium hand and body wash. Swedish summer in a bottle. My favorite table top and decor store in Stockholm is Tambur on Folkungagatan. I am like a kid in a candy shop with all of the perfect glasses, Italian ceramic vases, servingwear, ice cream bowls, butter spreaders, linen towels, baskets, gorgeous solid wood cutting boards. I would happily have every single thing they sell in my home. Same for Byggfabriken, a very traditional hardware and building materials store that focuses on every classic Swedish detail you could want for your house. Brandstationen on Hornsgatan is a fun, multi-brand and primarily vintage home store where I have gotten Murano lights, vintage ceramics and art. I have seen many great shows at Gallery Steinsland on Bondegatan.

Museums: Luckily the majority of Swedish museums are located together on Djurgården with the big exceptions being Nationalmuseet and Moderna museet on Skeppsholmen. But if you stroll on Djurgården you will find Vasamuseet (a preserved 17th century warship that sank in the Stockholm harbor on her maiden voyage in 1628 and took hundreds of years to find and salvage), Nordiska museet, Lilejvalchs Konsthall, Junibacken (the Astrid Lindgren museum for kids is a must), and Skansen the most incredible architectural park and open air zoo of native Nordic animals and salvaged traditional and regional Swedish architecture. HIGHLY recommend and love their gift shop too. If you exit on the backside you can walk to Rosendalhs Trädgård, my favorite botanical gardens and greenhouse cafe. If you continue further (there is also an adorable blue tram, sometimes running vintage cars you can take), I suggest Prins Eugens Waldermarsudde, a gorgeous old villa turned museum and further still to Thielska Galleriet, also housed in a stunning former private residence. Hallwylska Museet is a collection of art and artifacts collected by Countess Wilhelmina von Hallwyl displayed in her former home in the city center on Hamngatan. A little north of town you will find two incredible museums that were the ateliers of two of Sweden’s most famous sculptors both named Carl, Carl Eldh and Carl Milles. Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseet and Millesgården are both small museums with beautiful gardens and architecture and gorgeous sculpture collections in the former studios and homes of the artists. If you have science and STEM obsessed kids I highly recommend Tekniska Museet, the science and technology museum that has an architecturally award winning 3D space movie screening hall or get yourself to Tom Tits experiment in Södertälje, the twins favorite place on earth. One great thing about Swedish museums is that they all have amazing food. Blå Porten connects to Lilljevalchs, the cafe at Nationalmuseum is award winning and the food and views at the cafeteria in Moderna museet is one of my favorite spots. And if you are an architecture nerd, head to the stunning cemetery and chapels in Skogskrykogården in Gamla Enskede designed by Gunnar Asplund och Sigurd Lewerentz and on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Restaurants: Swedish food is way more than meatballs and cardamom and cinnamon buns, but I highly suggest you eat a lot of each. Stockholm has an abundant amount of fancy fine dining Michelin starred restaurants, most of which I haven’t been to with one exception. I know most people don’t come to Stockholm for sushi, but Sushi Sho is out of this world. With seating for only 10 people, it is a hard to snag reservation so plan at least one month ahead. The menu is a ten-course chefs-choice omakase, with a focus on local and seasonal seafood and produce. We have been twice for special occasions and I have never tasted anything as delicious or beautiful. I would like to try Operakäalleren, Frantzén, Ekstedt and the new Adam Albin (designed by the amazing Swedish architecture and design studio Hallerod). For a less fancy classic Swedish dine try Sturehof, Prinsen, Riche, Konstnärsbaren and their bar next door KB, PA & Co, B.A.R., Godot Brasserie, Operabaren, Tennstopet and Lisa Elmqvist in the Östermalm foodhall for seafood lunch! If you need a serious steakhouse fix I recommend Sperling & Co which also serves maybe the best fries I have ever eaten, and I have eaten a lot of fries. I think we ordered them four times over. For a more modern take on the European bistro, try Agnes, Ambar, Animo, Prospero, E&G, Lilla Ego, ok ok, Babette, Bar Nacka, Bar Nîmes, Savant, Freyja, Baccanale, Triton, Cafe Nizza, Stockholms Stadshotell. And when you are sick of European food, go to Missumasshu for Asian mix, Madam for Korean, Minh Mat for Vientamese or Take Ramen.

Bakeries (and hot dogs): Bakeries are their own category and should be taken seriously for breakfast or lunch, but more importantly for your afternoon fika, aka coffee and pastry break, which Swedes take very seriously and take every day. Luckily most of them have a couple of locations around town so one is always close at hand. My favorites are Stora Bageriet, Café Pascal and Lillebrors bageri. If you are having a cinnamon bun emergency and cannot get to one of the above, Fabrique, Vete Katten or Thelins will do and they are everywhere. Also it is 100% ok and great to eat hot dogs anywhere, from a street vendor by the water or in a park, even 7-eleven or Circle K. Swedish hot dogs are the best!

Hotels: If I could check in anywhere in the city, for that matter in almost any city, it would be Ett Hem. Comprised of a beautiful Arts and Crafts villa from 1910 and two adjacent townhouses, reimagined together as very personal and private luxury hotel by the inimitable designer Ilse Crawford. It is perfection. It is absurdly expensive, but if you can save up or splurge for a very special occasion I cannot recommend it highly enough, even for just one or two nights of your visit. I will meet you there for breakfast, my favorite anywhere in the city. Grand Hotel, the most iconic and old-school fancy hotel in town, Nobis Hotel (beautiful, classic, great location) or their sister property Miss Clara, Hotel Diplomat (classic, amazing location) and their sister property Villa Dagmar (tiny rooms, but chic and also great location next to Östermalms saluhall), Hotel Lydmar and the very cool, low-key Hotel Skeppsholmen (such a cool location on the water on the south side of Skeppsholmen). For a really budget friendly option I swear by Villa Esplanade right next to Diplomat. It is very old-school European, has not been renovated in a while, but is still charming. My friends literally won’t take my advice and stay there because it is so affordable they think something must be wrong with it. You might get a somewhat janky, very Swedish 80s bathroom with a shower that has plastic foldable doors, but I swear it is fine and charming and for the price, who cares?! I’ll take old and charming and affordable over new and annoying and expensive any day. Stockholm Stadshotell is a gorgeous new hotel complex in Södermalm reminiscent of a Parisian hôtel particulier. it’s a place where we really eat and drink and recommend staying in an area more like where we would actually live. Stockholm is tiny, everything is only like twenty minutes away max, so don’t be afraid to stay outside of Östermalm! Same goes for the Elite Hotel Marina Tower in Saltsjökvarn, one stop out of the city on a water taxi from Stockholm proper. Don’t miss out on taking a water taxi!

Parks:

Stockholm has so much access to nature and the water and green spaces galore. And the most amazing playgrounds in all of them. It really is a paradise for kids and a very easy place to travel as a family. My in-laws had an apartment on Rådmansgatan when I first started visiting Stockholm in the late 90s and my sister-in-law lived nearby for years afterwards so I am very partial to the area surrounding Humlegården, the park we walked through anytime we went anywhere and where our nephew first went to pre-school. Engelbrektskyrkan just to the west is where my sister-in-law got married and is magnificent! Vasaparken in Vasastan is another perfect place to spend an afternoon. There is a big football pitch (ice skating rink in the winter), an amazing playground with hot dog and ice cream vendors and Sven Harry’s Konstmseum. Kungsträdgården is the Royal garden, in the city center near the Royal Palace. It has the gorgeous cherry esplanade that blooms in April and also has an ice skating rink in winter. The first time we visited Sweden after the twins were born, we lived in Södermalm for a month, so I am very nostalgic about it and all the places we spent swinging and running around with the boys. We probably have spent the most hours in Nytorgets playground. Vitabergsparken is also a perfect summer spot. You can eat outside at Kajsas I parken, which has a huge play area for kids. Stora Blecktornsparken has a zip line and big slides and in ground trampolines and rabbits and goats! Lilla Blecktornsparken has the best wading pool and open play area with golden evening sun on the steps of Bleck where there is always a good DJ. Axel Landquists park is tiny with a perfect playground for toddlers and the excellent Capanna Verde gellateria. Skinnarviksparken on the north side of Söder is so picturesque with the highest point in Stockholm. And we spent many afternoons taking stroller walks and Aperol spritz breaks in Långholmensparken and along the southern edge of Söder along Norra Hammarbyhamnen. For a more dramatic garden and park experience, head to Drottingholm, the UNESCO World Heritage Royal summer palace and gardens where you can wander for hours. Don’t miss The Chinese pavillion.

Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan literally translates to old town and is the original city center dating back to the 1200s, a labyrinth of tiny alley ways and colorful buildings. The Royal Palace is here which is impressive, the Royal family still lives there and the flags will be flying if they are in residence. There is a great armory museum in the basement if you or your kid are into that sort of thing. The Nobel museum is also there. Stortorget (big square) is a cobble stone plaza dating back to the Middle Ages and is one of the most picturesque and photographed spots in the city. It is also home to an amazing Christmas market if you are a brave soul that visits in December. Skeppsboro bageri is a sprawling organic bakery on the water and is a great spot to recharge if you are getting on and off a taxi boat, which is a must way to get around the city. You can’t really experience Stockholm, which is a large collection of islands where one of Sweden’s biggest fresh water lakes meets the Baltic, if you don’t get out on the water. A few other classic Gamla Stan pitstops: Den Gyldene Freden has been serving Swedish food since 1722, Pastis French bistro, Pharmarium cocktail bar, Zum Franziskaner for beer and schnitzel, Gamla Stan Polkagris kokeri for classic Swedish peppermint sticks.

Södermalm

The Brooklyn of Stockholm, Södermalm is the largest island of the city and, like Brooklyn, the most diverse and energetic part of the city. It’s also where my in-laws have an apartment and many of our friends live so we spend a lot of time here. I love walking through Katarina Kyrkogård, the most beautiful church and cemetery. You can walk from there up through Mosebacketorg and Mosebacketerrassen for a drink with views out over the water and the whole city. And walk even further on Katarinagångbro over to Gondolen for a viewing platform of the whole city. Freyja on Hornstull is an elegant rooftop restaurant and bar with some of the best views of the entire city. Another favorite walk (starting with fika at Svedjan Bageri after catching a magical puppet show with your kids at Dockteatern Tittut) is through Skinnarviksparken and up to Skinnarviksberget, the highest point in the city. Then continue down along the water to the west and over Långholmensbron, where you can see all the old classic motor boats in the Stockholm wooden boat club and make a loop around the island. Långholmen and Reimerholme are two city islands where everyone hangs out and goes swimming in the summertime. On the south east side of Södermalm, walk up the hill to Sofia kyrka for beautiful views out over Vitabergsparken and the whole city. You can have a sprtiz outside in Kajsa i parken and they have a big play area for kids. Lilla Blecktornsparken is the perfect place to while away a few hours, sitting on the steps of Bleck having a cold beer in the setting sun while your kids play in the park and splash in the fountain and wading pool. Or wander through Stora Blecktornsparken (best playground and rabbits and goats!) and along the water on Norra Hammarbyhamnen.

Here are a few helpful words to get you through your trip. Just say them all the time to everyone and you’ll be fine. Also, almost everyone speaks English, but appreciates the effort.

Hej (hey) hello

Hej hej (hey hey) hi

Hej då (hey doe) goodbye

Tack! (tahk) thank you, please

Ja (yaw) yes

Nej (nay) no

Ja tack (yaw tahk) yes, thank you

Nej tack (nay tahk) no, thank you

That’s it for today. Thanks for reading.

Välkomnna!

Jen