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“Walk forever?” a shopkeeper named Mr. Takamori asked me on the evening of July 18, 2017 , in the village of Jōbōji, in north-east Japan. I wasn’t, not then, I was only walking from one end of Japan to the other, which isn’t forever, but I can’t say his question hasn’t remained with me ever since. Five years later, in the endless, pale blue light of a summer day in Estonia, I keep thinking…
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