Bonnie’s Corner No. 3

About a month ago Andrew and I were up late talking after Elio had gone to sleep — one of those rare quiet windows — and I told him I really wanted to go north. To mountains. To fresh running water and giant trees. Usually that kind of wish floats away by morning. This time I picked up my phone, half asleep, and started researching.

We decided we wanted to go to Yosemite but I knew the campgrounds inside the park would be completely booked for peak summer. And knowing I’d be very pregnant, I wanted somewhere that was actually comfortable. We found Under the Canvas — glamping tents about ten minutes from one of the park entrances and booked immediately. HipCamp is also a brilliant resource for privately run campgrounds when the national parks are full.

What we packed

The packing list for an almost three year old who will definitely end up in the river…

For Elio:
3 pairs of trousers, 2 shorts, 5 t-shirts, 2 pyjamas, plenty of underwear (we love these organic cotton ones), Keen sandals, swim shorts and top, a jumper, a baseball cap, and his beloved flashlight, which at this point counts as a toy.

For me:
3 trousers, 2 shorts, 2 shirts, 2 t-shirts, a bikini (I love You Swim, especially with a growing body), a jumper, sunglasses, bandanas, and the cross-body bag that has become my permanent mum uniform.

Wash bag essentials:
Toothbrushes (I’ve finally upgraded to electric), kids toothpaste we love, a simple face cream, a good face wash, soap in a tin, and mosquito patches for Elio. He’s not keen on repellent spray so these sticker-style patches were a genuine revelation and a big hit.

For the six hour drive I woke up early and made sandwiches, loaded up on snacks, and finally made the investment in a proper soft cooler from Yeti, the kind I’d been eyeing for a while and am very glad we got.

The trip

We took the fast route down the 5 highway, which sounds less romantic but delivered for Elio. An endless parade of tractors and trucks out the window, which at this stage of his life is genuinely thrilling content.

We arrived before check-in so headed straight into the park through the El Portal entrance, which opens dramatically through a rock tunnel. We pulled over almost immediately and dipped into the river. After six hours in a car, cold mountain water feels extraordinary. Elio didn’t need any convincing.

Yosemite Valley — swimming, ice cream, and a first marshmallow

The valley is the heart of the park — visitors centre, campgrounds, and some of the most accessible trails and viewpoints of El Capitan, Yosemite Falls and Cathedral Rock. It was hot so we kept it simple: a swim at Sentinel Beach, where I dunked my head fully under the water and felt like I’d finally, truly arrived. Elio and I hunted for good rocks. We found lots of excellent treasures.

Ice cream was next. My friend Wyn had told me to try an “Itty-bitty” ice cream sandwich from the village shop and he was absolutely right. Elio, meanwhile, was completely committed to a king-size Drumstick cone that looked objectively terrible. I let it go. Holiday rules.

That evening at Under Canvas, Elio roasted his first ever marshmallow over the fire. He was focused on the entire process. The tent was lovely and we all slept well.

The swimming spots worth knowing

Our favourite spot, one we returned to twice, was the sandy beach beside El Capitan Bridge. Lots of space, patches of shade, easy to reach from several parking spots with a short walk down. The view up to El Capitan from the meadow nearby never stops being surreal. We had a picnic there and just sat with it for a while.

On our third day we joined some friends we’d bumped into randomly on the first day of our trip for a hike at the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. A 3-mile loop to a waterfall, mostly shaded, following the river the whole way. It had rained the night before so the pine trees and ferns smelt so fragrant. It felt like the pacific north west until the sun started burning through the clouds. Our group included three toddlers, a ten month old baby, and a very pregnant me. So it felt quite the achievement when we made it back to the car. All ready for a snack.

After a picnic in a grassy field right by where we’d parked to go to the beach again by El Capitan bridge we inflated the kayak we’d brought. Elio was extremely excited. I watched happily from the beach while the boys paddled downstream.

Tioga Pass — a different world

On our final morning we drove up to Tioga Pass Road in the northern part of the park, a completely different landscape from the valley. Our first stop was Olmsted Point: pale grey rock, almost white in places, dramatically exposed, with Half Dome visible in the distance. We finally remembered to get out the Thule hiking carrier for Elio, which he was delighted about.

Our last stop was Tuolumne Meadows. If you’re coming from the west, pull off to the left just before the visitor’s centre for a walk around Pothole Dome. A quiet, lovely loop that most people drive past. The meadows themselves are a remarkable and fragile ecosystem. We stuck carefully to the paths.

The drive home

We took the scenic 395 highway back with mountains either side for hours. It adds about an hour to the journey and is completely worth it, especially if you stop at Wild Willy’s Hot Springs just north of Bishop. Andrew and I had each been separately before we met, so bringing Elio felt like a full circle moment.

As the sun went down after a dramatic afternoon rainstorm, I felt genuinely full. Full from the trees and the cold water and the big skies. Full from days without a screen, in deep connection with my family. I’d answered some kind of call to go to the mountains and Mother Nature, as usual, knew exactly what we needed.

Have you been to Yosemite with little ones? Any favourite spots I missed? Tell me in the comments, we’ll be back.