Latest Condiment Fascination: Chili Crisp-Marinated Albacore

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Remember when Mark Bittman, the author of the "Minimalist" column in the New York Times from 1997 to 2011, went through his pimenton phase? He was infusing everything from soups and meats to fish and vegetables—mostly to good effect—with the Spanish smoked paprika, making it a ubiquitous staple in pantries across the country (including mine). An hour to marinate, then flash-frying for two minutes…

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