Tokyo Thoughts

Tokyo Thoughts

I’ve been in Tokyo for the past couple of weeks and will continue to be here for a few more weeks before heading to Busan, South Korea. I’ve been posting a collection of thoughts about Tokyo daily at Facebook, and I thought I’d repost them here, too, since a lot of people have long ago jumped ship on the USS Meta. So, here are a round-up of observations about life in Tokyo.

June 25

1. We had our first earthquake this morning. Not major, but enough to feel the sway on our 8th floor apartment.

2. I’m not sure I will ever get used to heated toilet seats. Especially when it’s 80 degrees out.

3. There really are no vegetables here. Or at least I can’t find them. I literally walked in circles for hours searching for grocery stores. I found one grocery store on the third floor of a shopping building, but it only had some cut pineapple, some very expensive cut watermelon, even more expensive grapes, and some vacuum-packed corn. Sigh. The search continues.

4. But there are 7-Elevens everywhere! We had mango smoothies for breakfast from the freezer + smoothie machine. I’m sure I could do worse than subsisting on mango smoothies and rice for a month.

5. Due to a mishap with our luggage delivery service (meaning it wasn’t delivered when it was supposed to be), the gingerbread man needed to get a button-down shirt stat. He wandered in the same shopping area I wandered in earlier looking for vegetables. He found casual shirts, but no button-downs. But when I went to pay for something at the 7-Eleven later and looked to my left, guess what was there? Yes. Men’s white button-down shirts. Who knew 7-Elevens could be so versatile?

6. We watched a woman yesterday come out of a door with a cordless vacuum cleaner and proceed to vacuum around the door, out to the curb, in the gutter, and all of the sidewalk around the corner.

7. Tonkatsu is really good.

8. We went for shaved ice yesterday in the midst of the heat. Japanese shaved ice is not like American shaved ice. It is like a gargantuan dish of snow with sauce on it. I got white peach, and it was like applesauce, but made from peaches. By the time I finished, my whole head was cold. It was lovely.

9. Saturday we’re supposed to get a typhoon. Maybe Sunday will bring Godzilla and we’ll have the full Japanese experience?

10. We’ve seen two people with Trader Joe’s bags here. I told the GBM that they were a Thing here and so we bought some to give as gifts. I don’t think he believed me until we were on the subway and the guy across from us had one.

6.26.26

1. I braved the subway all by myself and therefore deserved a treat, so I got an ice cream treat that is encased in waffle-pattern cone-styrofoam (you know the stuff?). Not bad—and bonus, not messy.

2. Another earthquake today, but I didn’t feel it because I was out and about. But the elevators shut down for the GBM and the subways were delayed.

3. Speaking of natural phenomena, not only are we supposed to get a typhoon on Saturday, it’s supposed to be a double typhoon. 🌀 = lots and lots of rain.

4. But it’s ok! We don’t have to go out tomorrow because I found FRUITS & VEGETABLES! Joy! Carrots and onions and garlic and zucchini and apples and a lemon and even some plums!

5. It’s very easy to turn into a collector here. When you go to a temple, you can get a stamp in a notebook, called a goshuin. When you go to a train station or historical site or park, you can also get a stamp. (But don’t mix the secular and sacred stamps in one book). I’ve gotten two temples earlier this week, and I got four secular stamps today.

6. The reason for the subway ride was to go to the National Museum of Western Art, because art is good for the soul. Unrelated, I also learned about a fur-faced child adopted by a powerful aristocratic family in the late 1500s. Good for her.

7. After the museum, I went to a cafe for lunch, where I ordered a SALAD, which deserves all the capital letters because it was manna from heaven. I also got an herbal lemon soda, which was absolutely 💯! It was pretty, too, with a spike of rosemary, lemon rounds, and lots of fresh mint.

8. I may be getting used to the heated toilet seats.

9. At 5:00, the giant outdoor PA system goes off with a jaunty jingle that sounds like the ice cream man is coming for YOU. I think it’s just to signify that it’s 5:00? I’ll keep you posted.

10. Did you know that at the entrances to many stores/public spaces, there’s an umbrella dryer? I’ll have to get a picture of one because words can’t describe it. Other places just have an umbrella stand, while some places also have umbrella-sized plastic bags for you to put your umbrella in.

6.27.26

1. Today I attempted the washing machine. Giving birth may have been easier. It turns out the washing machine is a washer and the entire bathroom has a drying cycle?

But also the washer is a dryer.

But only if the drying cycle is on.

For the bathroom.

I think.

2. I was woken up last night by yet another earthquake. The GBM slept through it. It was bigger than the other two we’ve had this week. I couldn’t help but think the earth was singing, “Rock-a-bye baby, on the treetop…” as we swayed. When I got up this morning, I saw that they had even sent out an emergency alert to notify us of some shaking. I understand now why all the cabinet doors have push lock mechanisms.

3. Typhoons yeah, but mostly just rain here.

4. I tried two new snacks today: chocolate covered corn puffs (had the texture of malted milk balls), and these frozen grape balls that looked like red and green grapes, but tasted like grape popsicles. I got them in the hopes that they would soothe my throat. Mostly they just gave me brain freeze.

5. Although the GBM and I are both sick, we took the subway to the imperial palace to walk through the east garden. I would have brought you along for a walk, but I’ve got laryngitis in a bad way and can barely whisper.  Maybe later? But we did get a stamp for my book.

6. We have a closet space on an internal wall, but there are no hooks or shelves—not useful as a closet. I’ve been thinking that maybe it’s an earthquake shelter. Anyone know?

7. Our bathroom has a shorter, but deeper tub. The rest of the room is the shower. Outside of that door is the sink, super-toilet, and the washing machine/dryer that will someday take over the world. It’s humbling every time I go to wash my hands.

8. MUJI has good black pepper rice crackers. However, they are each individually wrapped. I suppose that’s fine if you only want to eat one or two, but I’m sorry, if you make them that good, people are going to want to eat more in one sitting. And by “people,” I mean me.

9. Did I tell you about the hot ginger drink I had at a cafe? (That was when I saw the woman vacuuming the street.) I found a bag of brown sugar and ginger mix with the tea at the grocery store (the one sans vegetables) and I’ve been drinking it with a slice of lemon. I’m hoping it will help my throat, but I’m wishing I had picked up some honey, too.

10. I’m off to attempt to convince my circadian rhythm that it’s night time. Wish me luck.

6.28.26

1. Unfortunately, I have very few thoughts on Tokyo, as we both stayed in the apartment all day, sick.

2. I did take a bath, which requires one to turn on the hot water heater. A cheerful female voice says something in Japanese (which I haven’t bothered to have Google translate for me), and then you have to push a button to start the water. There are no taps. Just buttons. I suspect the bathtub is in cahoots with the washing machine to take over the world.

3. Only a small earthquake today—just enough to set the window blinds swaying.

4. The view from our window makes me think of Shaun Tan’s THE ARRIVAL for some reason. Maybe because there is no color in the buildings across the street. They’re all charcoal grey and concrete grey and stone white with very pronounced fire escapes and air conditioning units. Not what one would call a good view, but it’s perfect urban perspective sketching.

5. Provisions are holding, but running low, meaning that I will have to venture forth tomorrow in search of sustenance again. Thankfully, I’ve got a better idea now where to go (thanks Kiyono!) We still have one onion, one carrot, and a few bananas, as well as something that looks like a croissant that had been flattened in a panini press until it was crispy like a cookie. Also, chocolate. Because me.

6. I spent a good portion of the day watching YouTube videos. The ads in Japanese are no better than the ones in English.

7. Garbage here is separated into all sorts of categories, with (I think) the main ones being combustible and recyclable. I haven’t figured out the bins yet, prioritizing clean laundry over trash, but now that we’ve been here a few days and the garbage can is filling up, I’m going to have to figure out what to do with it tomorrow.

8. I’m getting used to the sounds of the trains roaring by. I don’t mind it, because the public transportation here is so good. Wish we had good public transportation back home. If wishes were streetcars, beggars would ride.

9. A rather annoying thing about our apartment is that there are exactly two glasses, two mugs, two wineglasses, two dinner plates, two salad plates, two bowls, two sharp knives, and two sets of silverware. Also, one flipping-style spatula and one ladle. That’s the extent of our minimalist kitchen. Thankfully, there are also two dishwashers: me and the GBM.

10. I’ve discovered a place called Big Foot Spa (maybe it translates differently in Japanese?) that I’m longing to go to. Also a place that does head spas. Head to toe pampering. I’m here for it! Well, as soon as I can stop coughing.

6.29.26

Tokyo thoughts tomorrow. Tonight, I’m going to head to bed and hope the antibiotics send all the bad germs on a death march.

6.30.26

1. So I went to the international clinic yesterday and after registering, I received a card with the number 54, and then was sent to the second floor to await being seen. I filled out paperwork, saw the nurse, answered questions, took a strep test (negative as expected), and waited to see the doctor.  And then I answered the same questions all over again with the help of an online translator. Some things are the same no matter where you are. Fill out paperwork, then fill out the exact same stuff again. Answer questions then answer them again for someone else. 🤷‍♀️

2. I left with a prescription for antibiotics and directions to take it to a drug store. The receptionist said the closest one was across the street. The thing about Tokyo is that everything is vertical. Google Maps may take you to a location, but then you need to figure out where, exactly, in the tangle of floors and underground passageways the place that you’re looking for is. Makes navigation challenging.

3. After tracking down the antibiotics, I decided to seek out some more groceries. This seems to be the main purpose of my life right now. When I was checking out, the cashier wrapped my small glass jar of peanut butter and my small bottle of balsamic vinegar in puffy wrapping, then taped it into a neat parcel. She then gave me a bunch of mini ice packages in a bag to keep my yogurt cool. Such care!

4. At places with seating (restaurants), there’s a basket on the floor to put your belongings in so they don’t get dirty and stay together.

5. On the steps of the metro, there are arrows indicating which side is for going up and which side is for going down so everyone is in sync and foot traffic just flows along.

6. Sometimes when you’re sick, ramen is really the best thing you could ask for.

7. I went to a department store today in the midst of my wanderings, and Japanese style is really 🔥.

8. Most people on the streets are well covered. I mean, it’s in the 80s with high humidity, and yet women will have a long tunic on over pants and most of the men are in shirts and ties. I wore shorts today and I don’t think I will again, no matter how hot it is.

9. One of the most interesting things is that there are work clothes that have built-in fans in the sides, so you’ll see construction workers with their shirts ballooned out from the fan running.

10. Japanese manhole covers are so cool.

7.1.26

1. Restaurants give you a package containing a wet wipe for your hands to be used before you eat. Love this.

2. But no napkins.

3. There is a tiny drawer under the stove that contains a little broiler. I had no idea until the GBM pulled it out and proclaimed we could make toast.

4. The more I go out and see everyone covered in long pants and often long sleeves, with many of the men in full business suits, I wonder about the onsens or baths that are fully nude. Seems a contradiction?

5. I went to a drug store today because we needed some soap and shampoo. There are sample envelopes for most of the shampoos and conditioners for like 60 cents. I got a bunch because I was tired of trying to Google Translate them all to find the right ones for curly hair.

6. I also got nail clippers because I’ve heard that Japanese nail clippers are the best.

7. We were treated to a dinner tonight with the GBM’s work colleagues. We had a private area in a pub—a section with space for a table and eight chairs on a platform with sliding doors. I was surprised to smell cigarette smoke during our time there. I know that many Japanese people smoke, but I didn’t realize there were public places where smoking was allowed.

8. They ordered from a tablet and the waiters would simply bring the food. There was a green salad with some chopped up raw fish on it, edamame, sliced tomato with mayonnaise, chicken skewers, beef tongue, sashimi, grilled squid, fried chicken, and cubed egg (like frittata). Many of the dishes came with a dollop of mayonnaise on the side.

9. It’s really nice when you have friends who can fly for free and come visit.

10. Especially because I’m beginning to feel better and that head spa is calling to me.

7.3.26

1. Seriously, can Japanese kids in their school uniforms be any cuter? Plaid pants, pleated skirts, sailor collars, and little hats.

2. And on that thought of cuteness, I saw a pink public half-size bus, and a whole bunch of cars that look like Richard Scarry cars. I can’t help but picture little foxes or pigs driving them.

3. Speaking of pigs, it’s surprising the things one can find to do in Tokyo—like spend an afternoon with several small pigs sleeping on your lap. Yes, and tomorrow we’ll visit the Owl Cafe.

4. Also, we went to Itoya yesterday, which is a 12 floor stationery/office supplies/art store/home goods store. At least on floors 1-8. Floor 9 is for social gatherings, floor 10 is residential, floor 11 is farm, and floor 12 is a cafe. Yes, you read that right. Floor 11 is a farm. They have hydroponic lettuce growing there. Heaps of it.

5. Yesterday was also Big Foot Spa day. As I was crying out in pain during the massage part when the masseur was grinding out some particularly stubborn knots, all he did was chuckle and keep going. 😑 The milk of human kindness, indeed.

6. The cucumbers I got here are incredibly long and skinny—like half a European cucumber.

7. There are very few benches or places to sit.

8. Visited the kitchenware street again. So much cool stuff, including the tiniest little spoons and spatulas, as well as gigantic teapots, whisks, and wooden paddles. I *might* have purchased a few things.

9. Black sesame gelato is really good.

10. We stopped by the post office to get some stamps, but you have to go to a little kiosk to electronically enter what you want to do, then get a number, that the counter-person will then call out in Japanese, and you will be grateful when they wave to you because you don’t know large numbers in Japanese. Heck, you don’t really know small numbers either.

7.4.26

1. We started the day with a visit to a temple honoring Confucius. We arrived before it opened, but a woman came out of a gated area and urged us to follow her. She opened up all the gates for us and let us explore. It was peaceful—trees lining the walkways, a very large statue of Confucius, and the most beautiful goshuin stamp I’ve get gotten.

2. But the big event of the day was the Owl Cafe. Never in a million years would I have expected to be sitting in a space in Tokyo with an owl named Sushi sitting on my shoulder preening for 20 minutes. I decided afterwards that a person must be able to find just about anything he or she wants in Tokyo. Instead of fireworks, we got owl feathers.

3. There is a holiday here this weekend involving star-crossed lovers. For us, this meant a street festival with colorful lanterns and banners decorating the streets, plus food vendors lining the sidewalks. The GBM and I split a chicken breast that had been pounded thin and fried, then sprinkled with a spicy powder that made my mouth tingle in the strangest way, almost like my lips were foaming.

4. We also stopped by a table selling grapefruit juice. A woman in a kimono took a whole grapefruit and fed it into a machine that squished the heck out of it which then drained into a cup full of ice. It was tart, but very welcome as it was quite warm.

5. Japanese ice is strangely different from American ice. It is absolutely clear and it takes a really long time to melt.

6. On the subway coming home, there was a baby in a stroller who pulled off one brown sock. The parents were looking for the missing sock until the GBM pointed out where the baby was sitting on it. The baby looked at Bill like he had completely betrayed him, then let out a cry. Dad pulled out a doughnut and gave the boy a piece. It’s all the same everywhere.

7. As we walked in the Akihabara area, we saw several sets of very long lines of people. We think that there must have been some new release in the anime world. There was also a large truck with pictures of anime characters on the sides, blasting music, in a marketing way, which seemed to corroborate that.

8. We met the Buffalo Bills samurai this morning. He’s a super Bills fan and is part of the Bills mafia here in Tokyo.

9. Everywhere you look here there are gapachon machines, which are like gumball machines, but instead of a gumball, you get a plastic ball containing small toys, miniatures, action figures, key chains, or any number of things. They’re all different.

10. Potato chips here are really thick.

7.6.26

1. Many magazines here come with a box attached to it—a giveaway, so to speak—of makeup samples, or a water bottle, or a Hello Kitty lunch bag, or various themed tote bags. The whole kit and kaboodle costs less than $10.

2. We went out for dinner tonight to a place that served two versions of grilled eel. That’s it. Served with rice, a container of soup, and a variety of pickled things. The presentation is just so gorgeous, though. I’m thinking I need to come home with some black and red lacquered boxes for dinner, just for dinner pretties.

3. I discovered a bread at the grocery store that was about the size of a larger roll, but it was striped dark and light green, and the inside was pink with black “seeds.” Total watermelon bread. So cute.

4. The Google Translate app is . . . often very amusing. “Carefully massaged sideburns the color and aroma of domestically-produced red shiso.” Or (forgive me for this one), “Piss off” on a package of ramen. Well ok, then. I guess I’ll get a different brand.

5. I saw a package labeled “Asparagus Biscuits” in English, and while I’m intrigued, I’m not that intrigued. 😂

6. I did, however, try edamame gelato, which, unsurprisingly, tasted like beans. The black sesame was so much better.

7. But that’s ok, because I washed the edamame gelato down with salted caramel soft serve that came with some toffee crunchies on top and the lightest cone that tasted just this side of burnt sugar. Yum. Also really beautiful.

8. The sheer size of the buildings here is astounding. I considered just how much the glass of the windows must weigh for one of these buildings and I’m flabbergasted.

9. The gelato was located in the sub-basement of one of these enormous buildings. When we walked inside, it was like an office building lobby, and I really thought we must be in the wrong place. It was empty—not a soul there but for Karen and me, but take the elevator down two floors and we were suddenly in a hoppin’ food court-type area, but with bars and sushi instead of burgers and cheap tacos, and masses of people.

10. It’s so interesting walking the streets in the rain, as there is simply a sea of umbrellas, and when the cross-walk turns on, it’s a complicated dance of umbrella levels as the crowds from both sides of the street merge and part.

7.7.26

1. Sunrise here is at 4:30.

2. I’ve discovered that there’s an otter cafe here too, as well as a hedgehog cafe, and various cat cafes.

3. I love seeing people on the subway in their native dress. Saw a well-dressed kimonoed woman carrying a large turquoise Prada bag.

4. There were huge lines of people waiting for their number to be called for entrance into the pachinko parlors this morning. Like over a hundred. Easily. Apparently, people have lucky spots and line up early to get their particular place. When the line wraps around the corner, they make a space clearing the corner for pedestrians.

5. No matter how hard I try, I think I’ve done every rude thing possible here at least once.

6. Phone booths still exist here in the land of cell phones.

7. We went thrifting today. I got four dresses and a bag for $13.

8. One of my favorite parts of the day was at a museum, where we spoke to a Japanese couple who showed us an abacus and some children’s games. The ability to connect with delightful Japanese people through the power of Google Translate is really amazing.

9. In our wanderings looking for the museum, we came upon magic in the form of a vast pond full of lotus plants, with several about to bloom. And in the distance were structures set up with glass chimes that had written wishes hanging from them. It was unreal.

10. Sometimes (often), the best food is in the basement of department stores.

I’ll continue to share my thoughts about Tokyo, because every time I turn around, there is something unique or beautiful or magical or interesting. That’s one of the things I love about travel. For now, I’m off to the 7-Eleven to get some ice cream.