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Getting Around with William O'Connor · Aug 16, 2026

I'm conflicted about a buzzy new museum

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William O’Connor · Getting Around with William O'Connor

I’ve never been more confused as to how I felt about a museum than the new David Geffen Galleries at LACMA. Housed in an undulating glass-and-concrete structure that straddles Wilshire Boulevard, it’s a snazzy and slick addition to the jumbled collection of buildings that make up this popular museum complex. But as I walked its halls of floor-to-ceiling windows and dark gray concrete, I was reminded of that now-legendary Wall Street Journal interview with Aretha Franklin.

It’s sort of a standard series of questions one might ask a giant of one generation about the next. The interviewer throws out some names—Adele, Alicia Keys, Whitney Houston—and Aretha has positive things to say. When asked about Taylor Swift, though, Aretha replies: “Okaaaaay … Great gowns, beautiful gowns.” And nothing else. In just five theoretically complimentary words, the Queen of Soul rendered Swift to mere superficiality.​

Images of artwork in the Geffen Galleries at LACMA Images of artwork in the Geffen Galleries at LACMA Images of artwork in the Geffen Galleries at LACMA
Snaps from walking around the Geffen Galleries

Walking the Geffen Galleries, many parts of it are undeniably beautiful. The contrast of religious paintings from viceroyal Mexico or Impressionist landscapes on the raw concrete is fetching. There’s a reason that art hung on concrete has yet to go out of style in the homes of the uber-wealthy. Indeed, the building feels like a Malibu compound was dropped in the middle of Los Angeles.

​But as photo-ready as many of the spaces were, the experience felt lightweight. It did not, to keep with the Aretha metaphor, sing. That a museum must have something to say is probably a reductive requirement, but the Gallery did not seem to try to say anything other than that it was pretty and expensive.

Much like a gown.

Shots of Geffen Galleries at LACMA Shots of Geffen Galleries at LACMA Shots of Geffen Galleries at LACMA
Some of the exterior and outer halls

Why I’m merely confused, though, and not downright hostile, is that this was intentional. “A revolutionary curatorial approach” is how LACMA itself describes the layout in this Peter Zumthor-designed edifice. Across one floor, works from antiquity on through the 20th century are found interspersed. Not only does there appear to be little traditional rhyme or reason to how things are laid out, but there’s no obvious way to explore it. “No hierarchical layout,” is how the museum talks about it, and instead expects visitors to just wander through the various spaces. We often found ourselves turned around, doubling back, querying each other with “Wait, didn’t we just see this room? Let’s go left this time!”​

Why do this? The aim was to create something contemplative, something that allowed visitors to draw connections between works of art without the heavy guiding hand of curators.

In some ways, it was successful. We did flit from work to work, meandering for an hour or so. And it was a museum experience that was very different from most other major museums. I have spent the two weeks since going struggling to assess it. That struggle may prove their very point.

Images of the Geffen Galleries Images of the Geffen Galleries Images of the Geffen Galleries
Some gorgeous light and a Louis Sullivan artifact that I thought looked like it was held prisoner

The problem is that despite its lofty ambitions of transcending categorization and traditional didactic methods, it ended up coming across as arbitrary and superficial. As if, confronted with a world of growing illiteracy, shortened attention spans, and a proclivity for things that will look aesthetic in a feed, the museum chose vibes. Like it buys into the worst (and untrue) stereotypes about LA.

I will, however, undoubtedly be back.

A few final notes:

  • The Bacon studies of Lucien Freud are unviewable because of the light reflecting from the floor-to-ceiling windows. Remarkable for a $750 million project

The outer hallways at the Geffen Galleries The outer hallways at the Geffen Galleries The outer hallways at the Geffen Galleries
The outer hallways at the Geffen Galleries
  • The outer halls with the glass cabinets came across as if somebody forgot them out there

  • Walking up the outer stairs into the entrance is strange. It’s empty, and not in a *gasp* empty kind of way. Just odd negative space.

  • Somebody much smarter and more eloquent than me should use this museum to write a thought-provoking piece about what the purpose of a museum is in the 21st century

  • I worry that this gallery will prove to be a forgettable iteration of the last decade’s architectural tendencies and thus be wastefully torn down like the building it replaced

Maybe I should come up with a tagline under which to file the constant stream of stories of airlines cutting benefits we’ve all gotten used to. The latest? KLM is cutting free wine, beer, and cheese sandwiches on its European flights in economy. It’s also limiting its shortest flights to just water and a stroopwafel–no tea or coffee.

Ha, ha, ha. While the EU won’t admit the rollout of the EES has been a disaster (despite more reporting showing that wait times have doubled at certain major airports), the launch date for the next step, the ETIAS travel permit, has been removed from the official page.​

Apparently the New York Times keeps turning to the same TikTok high-end concierge for its stories about rich travelers, and folks are awfully skeptical she’s the real deal.

Aman has given its side of the story in that kerfuffle over an influencer being locked out of the new Mexico property, and I’ll be honest, nobody is looking great.

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Aidan McLaughlin@aidan_mclau

he’s right

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roon @tszzl

whenever i visit paris I have whatever the opposite of Paris syndrome is. it was shocking to me that such a place could exist and not be the most important city in the world and not incessantly talked about

2:30 PM · Aug 11, 2026 · 676K Views

39 Replies · 208 Reposts · 5.87K Likes

The day I become blasé about visiting Paris is the day I should have my passport taken from me and be forced to pay a tithe into a fund for people who have never gotten to travel. A Paris trip is always special. That said, I have little desire to move back there!

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Remember all the crowing about FIFA having been a success? Well, the numbers are in and international tourism for July to the U.S. was down 3% from the year prior.

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A crystal-inspired sauna in Sweden A crystal-inspired sauna in Sweden

I kind of hate-love this purple crystal sauna on a lake in Sweden!

When I visited Greece for the first time more than a decade ago, my boyfriend insisted that I wouldn’t get seasick because the Med there doesn’t get rough. Since he’d been many times before, I didn’t fight it even though it didn’t make sense to me. Fast forward to our trip and he’s holding a barf bag on a ferry during an island crossing. Now the Wall Street Journal is out with a story about the harsh realities of those island ferries in which I learned that some people call them the “Vomit Comet.”

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I used to travel alone a lot for work. For a while I loved a lot of things about it–the freedom, the ability to set my own schedule, the bed to myself, etc. I didn’t mind dining alone as I love reading a book at dinner. What eventually got to me was looking at or doing incredible things and wishing I had somebody to turn to, to hit on the shoulder, and say, “Isn’t this incredible?!” Props to Fodors and Ken Budd for capturing the downsides of solo travel.

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