Nantucket Wants You To GTFO

Good evening Gatekeepers. Today’s syllabus includes a bit about nostalgia, the state of luxury fashion, and who is getting shown the door. Those could all be the same thing, you won’t know unless you read further.

Plus: color combos to try this week, Gabbriette’s gothic bridalwear, Pucci’s space-age flight attendants, and the simple early-2000s outfit formula that I’ve been craving.

• Gap relaunched its 1990s fragrance collection under the new Gap Beauty line. Scents include the reimagined Dream, Grass, Heaven, Om, and the new addition, Harmony. I have not smelled these scents but I’m taking this as yet another signal that the mall might make a comeback.

• The residents of Nantucket want influencers to GTFO. A store called Four Winds Craft Guild put up sign earlier this summer that says “no influencers.” Influencer and founder of Dairy Boy, Paige Lorenze, commented on the sign calling it “anti-feminist.” Mind you, the influencer industry as a whole is largely run by women. Nantucket is historically a very exclusive place to be, maybe even more so than the Hamptons logistically speaking. Would love to know what you think of this — is anti-feminist a stretch or were the locals out of line here? Could they have simply put up a “no filming” sign? Either way, beef outside my tax bracket. Is it kind of proving their point that I want a Nantucket-esque “No Influencers” sign above my guest bathroom mirror now?

  

• LVMH’s luxury slump may finally be thawing but only barely: sales rose 1% year over year in the second quarter, compared with 11% for watches and jewelry. LVMH credited Jonathan Anderson’s strong Dior debut, which suggests fashion’s endless creative-director shuffle is beginning to produce something besides press releases and the headlines that include the term “musical chairs.” Because jewelry is growing faster than fashion, it may signal that shoppers are returning to luxury more selectively rather than resuming their old habits.

• The Miu Miu FW26 collection is partially online. I’m still very in love with these bubble sole sneakers, but only in the brown suede. Speaking of Miu Miu…Hailey Bieber in these campaign shots?? Don’t hate me but I don’t think this makes much sense. I love Miu Miu and I love Hailey but I think they’ve grown apart aesthetically speaking and it’s just not hitting for me.

1. Olympic Blue & Dark Tyrian Blue

2. Spectrum Red & Ivory Buff

   

• Fall down the Matières Fécales rabbit hole after the cult Paris label created Gabbriette’s three wedding looks—a collision of Bram Stoker’s Dracula, repurposed Margiela, equestrian camp and painstaking couture technique. Study how designers Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran translate their dystopian “dark glamour” into bridalwear without sanding away its strangeness. It’s a useful lesson in making tradition conform to a personal aesthetic, rather than dressing as someone else for the occasion.

  

• Fall down the fashion designer x airline glamour pipeline. In 1965, Braniff enlisted Emilio Pucci to create a futuristic, layered wardrobe of tunics, culottes, patterned tights and even a plastic “bubble helmet” called a RainDome. More from Fashion in Flight, here.

  

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• More sporty collabs are happening; latest one on my radar is the Free People x Rusty line. Reminds me of the collage I made in the Athletic Aesthetic article. Proof that the sporty look is becoming about borrowing the mythology of a sport!!

• Pleats Please is on Net-a-Porter now, which might be my sign to buy this dress that I’m convinced I would wear at least once a month.

• I’ve been on a early Disney stars street style kick lately. Maybe it’s all the low rise jeans floating around, but I just miss the simplicity of a cute top, jeans, and flip flops. Life was better!! I’ll leave you with this inspo pic of Ashley Tisdale and my current cart to recreate it. I think I’m just really loving super simple outfits right now. Not minimalist, just simple. You feel me?