Spiraling into Summer

At the Gourley-Stern table. Photo by Ippy Patterson

Sometimes we forget the little machine, then we remember it and have a big time spiraling away. Limited use, yes. Not all vegetables or fruits lend themselves to being stabbed onto stakes and turned into curls. The photo above is of cold, crisp cucumber and sesame salad, perfect to jumpstart a summer dinner. How pretty is that table setting? Almost anything would taste good if you’re seated there among friends. Although everything can be made ahead and chilled, don’t mix the cucumbers with the dressing until about to serve. It’s wilts pretty quickly and you want the crunch.

The recipe:

For 10, trim off the ends and spiralize 5 large and firm cucumbers. Peel only if you suspect the skin has been coated for preservation. Mix together: 5 T. toasted sesame oil, 2 T. honey, 1 t. peperoncini (or more according to taste), 1/2 t. za’atar, 2 t. salt, 1/8 t. pepper. Whisk well. Finely slice a bunch of spring onions. To assemble, toss the cucumbers with the sesame oil dressing. Serve on individual plates and top with the spring onions and toasted sesame seeds.

The next night we attacked potatoes. Roasted spiraled potatoes become crisp in the oven. Grab a big tangle of them for your plate.

In the last photo, you see the slender column with cap that remains. You can roast that too. You’ll need to spiralize 4 russet potatoes for 4-5 people. Place the curls of potatoes in ice water for 10 minutes or so to rinse excess starch, then drain the water, pat the potatoes with a dishcloth to dry, and toss them in the same bowl with 4 T. evoo (Bramasole, of course), salt, pepper, and whatever seasonings you like—maybe a shake of peperoncini and some finely chopped rosemary. Spread on a parchment line baking sheet and at 415 degrees roast for 15-20 minutes, turning over once.

Other fun with spiraling: radishes and carrots to sprinkle over salads. Zucchini to squeeze dry and sauté, adding breadcrumbs and grated parmigiano at the end. Onions to sauté until browning, and served with grilled meats. Sweet potatoes and cabbages. Apples for salad or quick crisps.

At the same Sunday Night Supper (pretty table pictured above), EW brought Spicy Watermelon. This is another way to serve watermelon other than stealing one from a field at night and cracking it open on fence post, as I did in high school, or the recently trendy watermelon salad with crumbled feta and arugula—a combination I don’t get excited about. Spicy Watermelon is a recipe based on an Ottolenghi one. It works as an appetizer, first course or palette cleanser.

For 6-8 servings, slice into wedges half a good-sized watermelon, removing as many seeds as possible. (Sorry, seedless watermelons just aren’t as good.) In a small saucepan add 1/2 cup water, the zest of two limes, 4 T. demerara sugar, 1 t. vanilla bean paste. (Not having that, I used 1/4 t. vanilla.) Bring to a bubbling simmer, then reduce the heat and simmer on low for about 5 minutes. Add the juice of 2 limes and chill well.

Mix 3/4 t. flaky salt, 1 T. Aleppo pepper, 1 t. sumac, 1 1/2 t. demerara sugar and a few grinds of black pepper. Break up the salt with a mortar or the back of a wooden spoon.

To serve, arrange the watermelon on a platter, drizzle with 3 T. evoo (Bramasole, of course), top with basil and/or mint leaves, pour over the spicy syrup, and sprinkle on the salt mixture. Guests will be surprised!

Notes: If you don’t already know Ottolenghi, peruse the delicious website. It makes you want to sprint to the kitchen! I have several of his books and regularly make his chicken and vegetable recipes and his spiced nuts. I need to explore more!

Our spiralizer brand is Brieftons. If you have a Kitchen Aid, there’s a spiralizing attachment.

Signing off with a glimpse of Annabelle in action. Do you know this delicate, lacy hydrangea? Although suffering in the current heat wave, this sublime hydrangea reigns over Bramasole’s upper garden all of July. Cut three or four and there you have your flowers for the table tonight.