Blessed by Blood

After climbing up the side of a volcano, we decided we needed to take it easier the following day. We had plans to visit the ‘presepi’ workshops and the odd church (there are dozens in Naples)

The presepi are carved figurines, primarily created for Christmas creches but other figures have developed over time. (We saw a Trump presepi and passed by it quickly). They can be made from plastic, terracotta or wood. The skill is nurtured through family lines and each workshop proudly displays the family name over the door. Observing a woman at work, I marvelled at the intricacy of the task and hoped her eyesight held up over the years.

Most of us consider a creche to be made up of the standard holy family: an angel, two shepherds and three wise men; not to forget the friendly beasts which around him stood. However, in Naples, everyone joins in the fun. There is a woman carrying her own baby to compare notes, a pizza maker, a cheese man, the inn keeper - all walks of life are represented. We even found a figurine defecating. Setting up the creche and placing the baby Jesus on Christmas eve are essential components of celebrating the holiday in Naples.

Delighted with this tradition, I purchased a few figurines myself. I stuck to the usual only adding in one guy delivering pizza. (My daughter had a stint as a pizza delivery driver so it had to be done). Besides, all those people gathering at the stable must get hungry!

After our tour of presepi shops, we visited a handful of churches. All of them were exquisitely decorated and if I knew art history I could describe the different baroque and romanesque styles. It was in a chapel off the Duomo that I had my religious experience. In the chapellina of San Gennaro, there is a phial of the martyr’s blood. He was executed in 305 AD by first being thrown into a furnace which didn’t kill him and then having his head lopped off. A woman collected some of his precious blood at this point and preserved it for the ensuing faithful of Naples. The blood is brought out three times during the year and miraculously liquefies, promising good fortune for Naples. The last time the blood stayed solid, Vesuvius erupted. As a result, San Gennaro is the patron saint of Naples.

We just happened to arrive as the blood was coming out for veneration and I was able to go up to the altar and be blessed by the relic. A once in a lifetime experience. Apparently, Pope Leo is due to arrive today (May 8) to venerate the blessed blood. Though I’d love to see the Pope, I don’t think I can cope with the crowds. There may be a great deal of non-peaceful pushing and shoving involved.

A traditional Neopolitan pizza was had after our church trail and then I partook in a siesta. That evening, we walked along the bay, watching the lights twinkle on and greeting the dogs that were out for their evening stroll. A perfect end to the day.