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France in Between

A personal yet informative take on France's small to middling towns -- the scenic, the offbeat, and the nitty-gritty.

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From in-between France, July 2026

Roundabout bakeries, yet another little Venice, sobering thoughts on bookshops, and much more...

Why I won't tell you where you should eat or sleep ...unless you ask

I could easily and legitimately review or recommend hotels and restaurants in the cities I visit. But, like Bartleby the Scrivener, I would prefer not to.

Savon de Salon: the Soap Tour of Salon-de-Provence

My last piece about Salon-de-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône, may have had you thinking that I spent two full days strolling and sipping.

Of accordions, lace and weapons

Tulle, the prefecture of the Corrèze department and home to 13,401 Tullistes, was already an odd little place to begin with.

From in-between France, June 2026

A play cancellation in Castres riles an archbishop, a small-town exhibit that's worth a detour, thoughts on rosé piscine, and much, much more

Have I found my Provençal place?

I've been on the look-out for a Provençal city that would tick my mid-sized town boxes while still oozing that southeastern French charm that seems to put a spell on everybody but me.

June 2026 Potpourri

Pondering Provence, reading notes, and have I spent too much of my life à table?

Orange slices

I have a like-hate relationship with Provence.

Am I actually "on a journey"?

I’d say that my late-in-life project to visit as many small to mid-sized French towns as possible fits the journey bill to a tee.

A digest of non-Parisian France, number 10

My special supporters get to read about special stuff.