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Footnote: Two Nomadic Authors Hike the World · Aug 17, 2026

IN PORT: Beauty and Pain in Molde, Norway

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Lisa McMann · Footnote: Two Nomadic Authors Hike the World

Check out our #1 bestselling book How to Become a Nomad: A Practical Guide to Transitioning to Full-Time Travel and Living Without a Home. We give clear, practical answers to 18 questions holding you back from making the leap.

IN PORT is a regular feature where we highlight our walking and hiking adventures in the sea towns we visit on cruises. For hikes in non-seaside places, look for the LANDLOCKED posts.

Our second stop on the Rotterdam-to-the-4th-power cruise was the beautiful city of Molde, Norway. Our hike, Varden - The Molde Panorama, began immediately from the terminal, taking us gently uphill through the city and past a cool-looking cemetery for about a mile before we reached the trail head.

Stikk UT! translates to “get out there” or “go outside.”
The gorgeous trail head

The wide trail was hard-packed gravel the entire way. We saw several brave parents pushing strollers up the ascent.

We also saw some of these.

Did someone, uh, drop something? No, it’s just a slug!

Not gonna lie, this was a challenging hike. Six miles and 1300 feet of elevation gain from a mostly steady, sometimes steep climb for the first three. I would classify this as a difficult hike, rivaling the hike that must not be named.

It was much steeper than it looks!

The saving grace? Lots of benches along the way, a lodge about 3/4 of the way up with basic coffee and heart-shaped waffles with jam, and a pretty amazing view.

The view from the summit was pretty spectacular too. Worth the effort? Definitely.

When walking clockwise, the back half of the official trail returns to the cruise port by following a road. We initially took that way but quickly discovered that the traffic from people driving to and from the summit left us constantly watching for cars. We made a U-turn and retraced our more scenic and relaxing route back down the mountain.

Downhill was easier for the first ten minutes, and then we were both hurting. My hip flexors and Matt’s knee still haven’t forgiven us. If you have knee pain on a descent, here are three simple tips that can help:

  1. wear a slip on knee brace (Matt uses this one as it’s lightweight and packs flat)

  2. lengthen your hiking poles and plant them first to take the initial impact

  3. turn slightly sideways (it’s slower but can bring relief)

Lisa smiling because her hip flexors hadn't started hurting yet

After the two-mile trek down the mountain, we limped into town, determined to see it before we collapsed back in our cabin.

Thank goodness for that bench
LEFT: A popular troll statue found in retail areas throughout Norway. RIGHT: Art on the side of a building depicting a naked man with a torch being held by a snakey-dragon thing. Because why not?

Despite the body aches, Molde was an extremely satisfying port. If you like the idea of this hike but it seems too hard, never fear! We saw plenty of people taking taxis to the top and walking down. The nature is well worth it.

Did you know? Lisa’s New York Times Bestselling THE UNWANTEDS magical fantasy series for ages 8 and up has sold nearly 2.5 million copies and won multiple state awards. Try book one, The Unwanteds in hardcover, paperback, e-book, or audiobook.

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