ZOLI

Praised by both The New Yorker and The New York Times, Zoli occupies part of the Amant contemporary-art campus. The resto is airy, urbane, industrial with an underwater glow. The food delivers Ned Baldwin’s style of elevated, homey goodness familiar from Houseman. With his fish-and-vegetable focus, Baldwin manages to keep the food comforting while going fancy. If I go back, I’m getting the fries. And, in season, definitely get the okra skewer. Here’s to seeing more okra on menus.

But the wine. There’s plenty to choose from, and the list is obviously natural-leaning. These are the hardest lists because everything seems possible. Much to choose from! So let’s take a look. The lower-priced wines run from $60 to $76, and there’s quite a bit to choose from.

From the skin-contact section? I’d be curious about the Vodopivec. A little too much sulfur for my taste, but if I suspend that objection? Those wines with age are so very good, and you don’t see that one very often.

For pink— it was a pink night— I chose the Lamoresca Rosato ($62). The trouble is, it’s always better on day two, but as our second bottle, it was grand.

I’m a little more verklempt when it comes to the reds. There is not as much that shouts, “Choose me!”

Except? I adore the Grand’Cour 2024s, so that is a no-brainer at $110. And for $76, you cannot go wrong with the Villemade. Those are safe choices if you want to ensure deliciousness.

A few prices made me gasp, such as the 2022 Emidio Pepe Pecorino . The markup isn’t the issue—it’s a modest two times retail. But wasn’t this wine about $85 only four years ago? Or is that my imagination?

Don’t get me wrong: I love that wine, but the price is hard to swallow. Still, if you’re shopping in that category for a first wine and have never had it, give it a whirl.

If I were going to spend more money, my choice would be the 2021 Julien Crinquand Les Canons du Jean Savagnin for $168. I adore seeing Ria’s wine ($60)—she’s doing the vine proud in TFL—but the best bargain, to my palate, is the 2022 Hervé Villemade Les Châtaigniers. It’s Cour-Cheverny: 100 percent Romorantin, raised in concrete. What a beautiful, edgy wine. It worked with just about everything—especially the artichoke.

AND WHAT WOULD YOU PICK?

Let me know in the comments!