Provence by Design Guide

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Provence — oh, I love this region so much.

I was fourteen the first time I visited. It was over spring break of my freshman year in high school, the same age that my daughter is now (?!). My grandparents were living near Geneva while my grandfather taught in a study abroad program, and they took us on a little road trip down south.

As I think back, I realize this was the trip that sparked my passion for travel. I remember coming home and telling my friends all about it as we sat on the concrete of our school’s quad, eating our paper bag lunches and daydreaming about all the places we wanted to go. There are still SO many places I want to go.

But there are certain spots that keep calling me back. Places with that je ne sais quoi that pulls me in. When I find one of those places, I want to know it better — to make local friends, to return to favorite spots, to discover new openings, and to slowly make myself at home.

Honestly, it’s also why I’ve been slow and deliberate in rolling out new By Design trip destinations. Each place has to feel like someone I’d like to visit again and again — not an exciting one-and-done hang. Or I need to partner with someone I deeply trust who already has that kind of relationship with the place. The connection has to be real.

(I read a great piece yesterday that put words to this exact feeling — if you’re curious, it’s here.)

For me, Provence is one of those places. Over the years, I’ve returned again and again — in different seasons, with family, with friends, and now with travelers (including my By Design groups). It’s become one of those familiar friends.

It’s a completely different vibe than Paris. Easier going. Sunnier, warmer (usually). The food and landscape are Mediterranean — olive oil instead of butter, tomatoes and rosemary, cypress trees and wide open skies. There are cities, the sea, countryside, mountains, and charming stone villages. So much variety within a fairly small footprint.

But this guide isn’t for everyone. It’s not trying to be Fodor’s, Eyewitness, or even Rick Steves. It’s a highly curated, slightly idiosyncratic guide to Provence from a very opinionated person (ahem 👋) who loves design, art, artisanship, vintage, good food, hidden corners, and connecting with people.

And honestly — that’s why we love newsletters, right? For a specific point of view in a niche little realm.

I originally shared a version of this guide a couple of years ago, and after spending time in Provence again, it felt time to update it — with fresh notes, a few additions, a quick closure check, along with some recommendations from local creative friends.

I’m dividing this into two parts so it doesn’t get crazy long. Today we’ll head into the Luberon and nearby for some of my favorite villages. In Part 2, we’ll explore Cassis, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, and Avignon.

But before we get started, if you love design-led travel guides, you might also enjoy:

– 24 of My Favorite Design Hotels in Paris
– A Long Weekend in London
– Paris by Design City Guide
– A Classic French Island
– A Week in Sedona
– Paris for Book Lovers
- Provence by Design Guide, Part 2

And now for some of my favorite spots in and around the Luberon Valley. This isn’t meant to be comprehensive — it’s a highly edited roundup of places I love and have visited personally, with a few newer (or new-to-me) additions. I’ve organized everything in alphabetical order by town.

Hotel prices are based on rates for September 2026 at the time this guide was published.

Lourmarin is one of my favorite places in Provence — small, lively, and easy to spend time in without trying very hard.

Château de Lourmarin — Worth taking the tour to discover the layers of history. And if you’re there during the warmer months for the classical concert series, go. It’s magical.

Friday market — One of the best small town markets in Provence. Catch it on a sunny day, and it’s absolute heaven.

Atelier Marchal — Gorgeous, simple Provençal antique furniture and objets that will make you wish you owned a house in Provence.

Caractères — Hard to spot from the outside, but such a good find. The owner designs most of the simple, beautifully made clothing herself and will happily style you while you shop. (Thanks to Meta, Chaunté, and Mer for insisting I go in 😘.)

De la Cuisine au 20 — Gourmet kitchen and food shop. They make their own cassoulet and sell it in big jars — perfect for an easy dinner back at your Airbnb.

Franc 1884 — Exquisite handwoven lavender pomanders you didn’t know you needed until you see (and smell) them in person. Such craftsmanship.

La Colline — Impeccably curated home goods and gifts. Two boutiques across from each other — see both.

La Demeure du Bailli - Extremely elegant antiques.

Le Petit Gris Piedra — Sweet children’s shop with toys and clothing in soft, muted tones.

Auberge La Fenière — Farm, hotel, and restaurant centered around beautiful, nourishing, seasonal food. About a five-minute drive from town.

Bacheto — I’m usually not very into hotel restaurants, but this one is an exception. Delicious breakfast, incredible space, and I still think about the fish with beurre blanc I had for dinner one night.

Gina Cafe Cuisine - Homestyle Italian cooking in a casual spot.

Glaces RAVÍ — Local, artisanal ice cream done very well.

La Louche a Beurre - Steak frites in super cozy surroundings.

La Maison du Gibassier — The only bakery in town (at least when we were there). Our favorite was the almond croissant. Also, try the gibassier, the local specialty.

Le Bistrot — Solid, charming, and “correct” (as the French say). We especially loved the beet carpaccio.

Les Caves du Chateau — A variety of local wines in an actual cave underneath the Chateau de Lourmarin.

Les Commissions du Moulin — Hip food shop run by the hotel. Coffee, sandwiches (takeout only), and great little gifts and provisions.

Pizzeria Nonni — Pizza that hits the spot. If you’re a cheese lover, order the margherita, not the plain cheese. Trust me.

Super Taf 2 — Cute, scrappy little grocery in the middle of the village. I’ll let you in on a little secret: they make inexpensive, fresh sandwiches at lunch, but they sell out quickly, so plan accordingly.

💌 Continue reading for where to stay — plus more design-led addresses in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Gordes, and Ménerbes.

If this guide has been helpful so far, a quick ❤️ tap truly helps.