RSS Amplifier

cocktail napkin notes · Apr 27, 2026

The Dispatch: Copenhagen

0
Sign in to vote or save

Elizabeth Victoria Clark · cocktail napkin notes

Whatever bit of cool you think Copenhagen will be, double it. The interiors? Impeccable and impossibly well considered. The fashion? Even better. And the food? There’s a reason the city holds one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars per capita.

And yet, Copenhagen is approachable, comfortable, walkable, and entirely unfussy. For all the talk about impossibly cool Danish girls (and yes, their style is next level), this is not a town that feels exclusionary to visitors, so long as you’ve got a great oversized topper to blend in, and you don’t walk into the bike lane. You can go just about anywhere and feel entirely at ease, from a neighbourhood bakery to a three-star dining room. Everything you’ll want to see is either within walking distance or a short, seamless metro ride away.

I loved coming here solo (and felt completely safe doing so), being here with friends, and rediscovering it again with my husband. No matter how you do it, I promise you’ll love it. So let me take you through the highest points of the land of hygge:

Stay at Hotel Sanders. Eat more pastries than you think is reasonable. Shop extensively. Make the Louisiana Museum trip a priority. Drink dill snaps. Leave space in your suitcase for a very good Danish coat.

  • Hotel Sanders: My favourite stay in the city, and in contention for one of my favourite hotels in the world. Perfectly located in the heart of everything you’ll want to see, with rooms where every detail is exactly where it should be, from the coat hook upon entry to a complimentary minibar stocked with everything you’ll actually reach for. The rooftop for morning coffee and the fireside bar for evening cocktails make it just as good for starting the day as it is for ending it.

  • Villa Copenhagen: Larger, and in a slightly less desirable location (in my mind), but the rooms are bright and airy, and the rooftop pool and sauna are a major draw.

  • Atelier September: The best breakfast plate in the city, but the granola and baked goods are equally worth ordering. There may be a line, but it moves quickly and is worth the wait.

  • Apotek57: As beautiful as it is delicious, tucked inside Frama. One of the chicest ways to start the morning.

  • The Roe Bar: Set inside Louise Roe’s interiors boutique, where the elevated design is matched by great coffee and excellent breakfast plates. I love to sit at a bar seat before a day of bopping around boutiques, as it’s set in one of the best shopping neighbourhoods.

  • Apollo Bar: From the same team as Atelier September, just beside Nyhavn. Cool, cozy, and a very good place for one of your first mornings in the city.

  • Granola

  • Studio x Kitchen

  • Juno the Bakery: Often considered the best in the city, and after two trips of thorough pastry research, I can confirm it earns the title. Go for the cardamom bun, and don’t miss the saffron bun if it’s in season.

    • A note on cardamom buns: I don’t usually love them. The flavour can feel overpowering, and the texture a bit too bready. Juno is the exception. It defines the category.

  • Andersen & Maillard: You will have seen the pistachio cube croissant on social. Get it, but get more, it’s all delicious.

  • Hart: Multiple locations, and no, it’s not a chain in the way you’re thinking. It’s consistently excellent. The cardamom croissant is a must (even for a bit of a cardamom hater like me), but don’t skip the tebirkes, a traditional Danish pastry filled with a marzipan-like paste and topped with poppy seeds.

  • Lille Bakery: Take the public ferry if you can, as it’s one of the most charming ways to get around the city. Get the cinnamon bun if they have it, or anything else if they don’t, then head to Copenhagen Contemporary.

  • Rondo

  • Riviera

  • Benji

  • Esso

A note on dining: as one of the leading restaurant cities in the world, this is by no means comprehensive. I haven’t done a full Michelin tour (yet), and plan to come back for a more food-focused visit, but these are the places I’ve loved so far.

  • Admiralgade 26: One of my favourite meals in the city. Every dish feels thoughtful without trying too hard, with ingredient combinations that are unexpected but completely work.

  • Bottega Barlie

  • Cantina

  • Barr: We visited their pop-up at Noma, which made for a particularly special experience.

  • Kødbyens Fiskebar: Excellent seafood. You absolutely must get the crab and caviar bite to start.

  • Ved Stranden 10: A must. Go before or after dinner.

  • Ruby: I came here on my first trip for a pre-dinner martini and remembered it being excellent. Returning this time, I can confirm it’s still one of the best I’ve had.

  • Bar Vitrine: A natural wine bar from the Frama team, so the design alone is reason enough to go.

  • Lille Blå

  • Pompette

  • Kjær & Sommerfeldt: A historic wine shop where you can open a bottle and drink it on site.

  • Another Nué: The ultimate cool-girl Copenhagen store. I’ve bought some of the most treasured pieces in my wardrobe here over the years, and it’s worth following for the window displays alone.

  • MKDT Studio: My favourite Danish designer.

  • Tekla: Bedding and homewear done perfectly (and likely seen all over your algorithm).

  • By Malene Birger

  • Toteme: The boutique is just so beautiful, and I do believe it’s cheaper to buy the brand in Copenhagen and Stockholm than elsewhere in Europe.

  • Koné

  • Pico

  • New Mags: One of the best coffee table book stores I’ve come across.

  • AF Agger: The source of my most frequently asked-about coat.

  • Griegst Jewellery

  • Sophie Bille Brahe

  • Lié Studio

  • Jerome

  • Frama: Go first for breakfast at Apotek57, then wander about and buy a hand cream.

  • Millefiori Interior: Only open a few days a week, but worth going, if you’re able.

  • Helle Mardahl Studio: Like stepping into a candy-coloured dream. The glassware, the colours… this space is truly joyful.

  • Louise Roe

  • Normann

  • Tadaima: Feels like the coolest people you know designed their dream apartment and opened it to the public (which, essentially, they did). The mix of objects, interiors, and clothing (including Almada) is incredibly well done.

  • Hay House: A cornerstone of modern Danish design.

  • Stilleben

  • Ferm Living

  • Klassik

  • Rue Verte

Copenhagen has an incredible secondhand scene, with a strong mix of designer resale and true vintage. It’s not particularly inexpensive, but the curation makes up for it.

  • Copenhagen Contemporary: Stepping inside the now-permanent James Turrell installation remains one of the most memorable art experiences I’ve had.

  • Louisiana Museum: Take a 45-minute train ride just outside of the city to discover one of the most unique indoor/outdoor museum experiences. The trip is easier than you’d think and absolutely worth it.

  • SMK

  • Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

  • Thorvaldsens Museum: Colourful and underrated. Stop at Ruby for an excellent cocktail after.

  • Nikolaj Kunsthal

  • Sunday-S Gallery (by appointment)

  • Finn Juhl House

  • Rosenborg Castle: Skip the interior and walk the gardens with a coffee from any of the excellent nearby options in hand.

  • The Little Mermaid (and her genetically modified counterpart)

  • Eat your way through the essentials: cardamom buns, a proper Danish breakfast plate (or a BMO if you’re in a hurry), and at least a few smørrebrød. You will never regret ordering another pastry.

  • Don’t overthink getting around. Almost everywhere is walkable, and anything further is easily reached by a clean, safe, and efficient metro. Get the app, if you can. It makes things easier.

    • On that note, take the metro from the airport. It’s located directly as you leave arrivals and will get you into the city quickly and cheaply.

  • I’m told there are excellent Pilates studios in town. I was too busy pastry-maxxing to try them, but Studio 41, PWR.8, and Ara’kai come highly recommended.

  • Two gaps in my Copenhagen resume: saunas and canal swimming. Don’t make my mistake. Do both, if you can.

No posts

Read the original on elizabethvictoriaclark.substack.com

Comments

Nothing yet. Say the first thing.

    Sign in to join the conversation.