SIZE Part 2: Taking Your Measurements

I removed the paywall. In the near future, some of my content will be limited to paid subscribers, but not this one.

That said, I’m hoping this Substack, and the related one I’ll begin during March will help pay my expenses. So paid subscriptions are most welcome. Thanks so much.

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Materials required:

As you take your measurements, make a note of them.

Use a tape measure. This pink one is my favourite because it’s softer than most others I own and have seen. Softer is more comfortable and also allows a more precise result.

Also, a friend gave me the small pink one. It’s retractable; I keep it in the small kit I take with me when I meet with clients. It’s narrower than standard tape measures, and also softer, so again, it gives a more precise result. (And, you can keep it in your bag to take measurements when you shop.)

In general, wear a supportive bra with no padding. (See exception below; also find more information below.) Either take your measurements over your bare skin/lingerie, or wear very close fitting and thin cami, top, and tights or close fitting and thin workout wear. Any bulk will give you imprecise measurements.

Measuring Your Bust

The tape measure should touch your nipples in front and lay across about 2 or 3 inches above the very bottom of your shoulder blades, in back. Keep the tape level (avoid allowing it to sag in the back) and snug but not tight. Don’t squoosh your breasts, or any other part of your body.

To measure your bust, you must wear a bra. If you’re an A or B cup snd have little sagging, you may not need to wear a bra at all, and certainly not an under wire bra. Don’t wear a padded bra! Padded bras will affect you getting a precise measurement. I’m wearing an Aubade underwire, lace bra with no padding. It has boning on each side to smooth out some sagging, excess skin. (I’ll share my weight gain and loss experience with you at some future point.)

Larger bra cups require an underwire for this measurement. Even if you never wear a bra, unless you have firm breasts with no sagging, to get the most precise measurement, you should wear an underwire bra if you are a C cup or larger.

Get a bra fitting. Do not have a bra fitting at Victoria’s Secret. They measure the bust incorrectly so that the band is bigger and the cups smaller. But because most of the support comes from the band not the shoulder straps. VS fittings reverse that and produce a poor fit. I recommend Neiman’s, Nordstrom’s, or another shop that has a good lingerie department. Then buy one bra; every so often, a bra is very useful.

There is an important reason to wear a bra for this measurement. Breasts that sag will place the widest part of the breast area below the position used for breasts in garments which is just below the armpit. For loose fitting tops and dresses, the position of the breasts matter less. But closer fitting styles only provide space for breasts below the allotted area.

I don’t believe in remaking the body to fit clothing but rather, clothing should be made to suit us. At the same time, I don’t believe that a bra tries to remake us, it supports the bust which often takes pressure off the back and, if wearing a well fitted bra, can ease tired shoulders and upper back.

NOTE: If you find good bras too pricey, make note of your size and buy a bra from a discount shop/site. If buying online, I highly recommend Gilt.com. They sell beautiful lingerie at deep discounts. I also highly recommend buying one really good bra. The French (Aubade, Simone Perele, Chantelle, Eres, Etam, etc), English (Fleur of England, Rigby & Peller, Agent Provocateur, etc.), and Italians (Cosabella, La Perla, Intissimi, etc.), and of course, the German brand, Wolford, etc. make beautiful lingerie for women of various sizes. The English, in particular, make beautiful bras for women of all sizes. All the brands I’ve listed can be found, from time to time, on Gilt or through other sample sale/discount shops/sites. Once accept that beautiful, well designed lingerie is worth owning, the sticker shock lessens and finding off-price pieces becomes as important as finding on sale designer clothing.

Measuring Your Waist

To find your waist, stand straight and tall, hands at your sides. Let one hand glide down your outer thigh until there is a crease in your side. That crease indicates your waist. Mark it with a pin, a post it flag, or something similar. (My waist is marked with the thin cord.)

Be sure to measure your waist at that point. Leave the position mark in place.

Mass produced clothing, as well as sewing patterns, assume the waist is at the navel. But, the waist is also defined as the narrowest place between bust and hips. (Mass produced clothing/sewing patterns also assumes the waist is the narrowest part of a woman’s body, and that is true.) In my next post/video, I’ll talk about using real measurements to find sizes that best fit your actual body even when it doesn’t correspond to brands’ assumed measurements.

BTW, my actual waist is 4” above my navel. (The position of my navel is marked by the silver weight.) Human bodies vary greatly; I guess we fail to read the body specification instructions in the womb and just grow as we please.

Measuring Your Hips

For the hip measurement, in addition to the circumference, make a note of the how many inches down from your waist you measured. (See instructions below.)

Measure your hips where they are widest. Mass produced clothing, as well as sewing patterns, assume the widest part of the hips is 9” below the waist. So measure down 9” from the mark you made at your waist. Mark the spot, and measure at that point. But check further up and down. Measure what you think is the widest point. (Most women know their bodies.) If that’s not obvious, measure an inch or so up and begin measuring an inch or so below the tape to check whether your hips are wider at another point. You should check as much as 4” or so below the 9” point. The widest point is the actual measurement of your hips; do go with that measurement. Mark that point.

The actual numbers matter! Early on, when I was first sewing clothes to wear to the office, I made several tailored dresses using the measurement at the 9” point. They all fit on top but, at best, pulled tightly across my hips. The 13” position on my body is my widest point. Once I began altering and making patterns that fit my actual body, and choosing sizes and styles that did the same, I was able to wear pencil skirts and close fitting dresses.

In my next post/video, I’ll give information on using your measurements to choose garments that fit better. In the meantime, compare your actual measurements to those given in the size tables provided by your favourite brands. Enjoy!