This is a monthly series I’m writing here, Just Between Us, where I sit down with someone whose perspective I’m genuinely curious about... and we see where the conversation goes.
This month, I’m chatting with Mary, the writer behind Mary | Architecture Atlas. She actually discovered my work first, and once I began reading hers, I quickly understood why so many people enjoy it. Mary travels with an eye for architecture and history, two things I’m endlessly fascinated by myself. While I tend to photograph beautiful buildings, she digs into the stories behind them, adding another layer to places I thought I already knew.
In this conversation, we wander from an unexpected cathedral in Bourges to the west coast of Ireland, stop for raclette in Annecy, and make a case for spending the night inside history instead of simply walking through it.
So, pour yourself a glass of Burgundy for this one.
Come, listen in.
Many years ago, we were driving from Paris to the South of France and stopped over in Bourges. I knew nothing of it at the time, and we just wandered out our door in the morning, only to stumble upon an extraordinary Gothic cathedral. This was my first trip to France, and although I knew of other Gothic cathedrals like Amiens and I had already seen Chartres Cathedral, Notre Dame Cathedral and Sainte Chapelle, I was still blown away by Bourges Cathedral.
Travelling too fast and wearing yourself out, or squeezing in one more thing in the day. The best travel days have breathing room for spontaneity. Now, travelling with a family of four, the way I travel has changed a lot. I’ve learned to slow down and appreciate the wonder in the world. This is part of why I am so interested in historic hotels, as this way the history is already embedded into the experience.
The west coast of Ireland. I loved the boat ride out to see Skellig Michael and Little Skellig. It was my daughter’s first boat ride; even though she was born near the Pacific Ocean, her first boat ride was on the Atlantic. On that same trip to Ireland, we stayed at the lovely Ashford Castle and visited many other historic sites as well, like Newgrange.
Raclette in Annecy. There was this giant wheel of cheese, and it was amazing. I will never forget it. If visiting, L'Etage is the restaurant.
I don’t think Verona gets as much love as it deserves in the Northern Italy itineraries. Verona has one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheaters still in existence. It can seat up to 30,000 people. And about an hour NW of Verona is the incredible Santuario della Madonna della Corona, which is a 16th-century church built nestled into the rock on a mountainside. You can climb the 1540 steps to access the stunning site.
As I read through Mary’s answers, I realized she experiences places a little differently than most of us.
Where I might admire a beautiful building or photograph an interesting façade, Mary wants to understand the story behind it. That perspective comes from her background as an architect and architectural artist, and it shows. She has a way of connecting architecture, history, and travel that makes you slow down and look a little closer.
That curiosity is what led her to create Mary | Architecture Atlas. While planning a trip to Ireland, she couldn’t find the kind of resource she was looking for, one that explored destinations through architecture and history while uncovering remarkable places to stay. So she built it herself.
If you love understanding the stories behind the places you visit, I think you’ll really enjoy her posts. Mary’s newsletter, The Places of Wonder Mail Club, explores destinations through the lens of architecture, history, and historic hotels. She also shares her own architectural drawings, where members receive an original illustrated postcard and the story behind the place each month.
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