Two days ago, the heat looked like it might define this race, with temperatures reaching 41°C, dozens of riders abandoned the hottest hours altogether, using Toktogul to recover before committing to the next stretch.
By Son Kul, the colours had flipped. The dry browns around Toktogul had given way to a huge green basin beneath the mountains, with the lake and its scattered yurts sitting above 3,000 metres.
Son Kul means “the last lake” in Kyrgyz. For the riders this year, the name feels fitting. Beyond the lake, the route begins its turn towards Baetov, the Chinese border, and increasingly empty country. There are still villages ahead, but the gaps between them soon begin to grow considerably.
It may have felt like the storm had already begun, but in reality, the opening days may have been the calm before it. Thunderstorms are brewing into Tuesday too, so the metaphor might not remain a metaphor for long.
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