The Rockstud Revival Is Here

When the trailer for The Devil Wears Prada sequel dropped last fall, social media erupted in critique. Suddenly everyone was Joan Rivers! Why would the film, a window into the fashion world, open up with a pair of heels that debuted 16 years ago?

Now old enough to get their driver’s permit, the Valentino Rockstuds are presumed fossils of a bygone fashion era. Conceived by co-creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the shoes were released as part of the brand’s fall 2010 collection, later inspiring accessories like the 2016-adjacent Rockstud bag. Valentino’s home city of Rome, where “bugnato” studs are a signature architectural feature, influenced the design’s pyramid-shaped studs.

While Chiuri always seems to catch fashion flack, she and Piccioli are owed credit for the Rockstud, incontestably some of the most defining footwear of the 2010s. The shoes might be gathering dust in the back of closets (or popping up on resale sites like TRR) now, but they remain one of Valentino’s most recognizable pieces to this day. Even if you’re not a “Fashion Person," you likely recognized them in the trailer.

Whether you like it or not, the silhouette is stepping into the light again, and not just because it was featured in the trailer as part of an orchestrated brand placement between 20th Century Studios and Valentino. (Quoc-Anh Truong Cornette, head of integrated marketing at Valentino, confirmed the arrangement on LinkedIn.)

In the wake of the indie sleaze revival—and in rebellion of quiet luxury beige and tradwife whispers—a provocative accessory reigns king. Nothing proves this more than the resuscitation of the Alexander McQueen skull scarf or the Balenciaga City bag. These days, it seems the richer the reference, the better the sales. The Rockstud feels like a natural (studded) step forward, another reflection of our desire to return to a pre-filter era.

And the ‘80s of it all! Plenty of designers this year, Alessandro Michele included, have borrowed from the decade’s oversized eyewear, chunky pumps, and pinstriped skirt sets. Dare I say we’re eloquently leaning into the era’s tackiness? Consider the Rockstuds a chicer equivalent to the studded acid-wash vest.

It’s also worth noting that, after the death of the house’s founder in January, it feels more fitting than ever for the spiked silhouette to make a comeback.

Alessandro Michele, who presented his first collection for Valentino in June 2024, took his time in debuting his own iteration of the icon. “I didn’t want to do this the day after I arrived here, because I found it weird and I didn’t know this territory so well,” Michele told WWD.

His pre-fall 2026 collection, debuted late last year, updated the shoe with a tapered square toe reinforced by a metal cap, lending a bit more edge to the studded superstar. Varying heel heights make the look customizable, but if you’re skipping the tripping hazard, you can always go for Michele’s new strappy sandal.

The teeny-tiny square toe and metal toe cap make the new silhouette extra exciting to me—and besides Ms. Priestly herself, stars like Devon Lee Carlson, Dakota Johnson, and Lily Allen have already stepped out in the updated heel. Some are Valentino ambassadors; some are tapping into fashion nostalgia; all are leaving me inspired to style the Rockstud.

Michele’s revamped Rockstud “preserves its iconic geometry…a structural code of the Maison,” read a Valentino press release last week, announcing the new Garavani New Rockstud campaign. The shoe’s namesake studs often cast an edgier light on the house’s scalloped shorts and flouncy floral dresses.

The Rockstud has been reimagined prior to Michele: In 2020, Piccioli called on international designers to create their own version of the Rockstud for its 10th birthday, while the following year, Valentino introduced the bigger and bolder Roman Stud. The spring 2022 collection featured studs of all sizes on gladiator-style sandals.

Priestly isn’t the first fictional character to rock the shoe either. Lily Collins wears them in the second season of Emily in Paris, while Seema wears a wedge version when her character is introduced in And Just Like That. These are ladies with industry insight!

Back in the shoe’s 2010s heyday, everyone from Emma Stone and Gigi Hadid to Jennifer Lopez and Vanessa Hudgens flaunted their Rockstuds. One thing about the silhouette, regardless of time or designer? It’s always been an if you know you know moment.

Whether you love them or hate them, the Valentino Rockstuds are here to stay. They have a pre-algorithmic charm that just can’t be beat (as much as TikTok will try to convince you otherwise). If they’re good enough for Miranda Priestly, they’re good enough for me.

Looking for your own pair of (vintage-ish) Rockstuds? Consign on TheRealReal using my link to gain $200 in credit rather than the usual $125. Want to see what I’m up to (and what I’m wearing)? Follow me on Instagram and TikTok. Interested in working together? Reach out here.