Dario, Oh Dario, Where Art Thou?

Dario Vitale feels like an ex I can’t shake. Everything reminds me of him…

It seems only yesterday the designer put out his first—and ultimately last—collection for Versace. I’d never felt more alive! Slinky muscle tees, pigmented pants high and tight on the ass, and strong-shouldered leather jackets…all sauced up with chunky belts, snakeskin leather boots, and metallic pendants that implied they stayed on during sex.

It was decadent, dirty, and doomed.

Vitale presented his new vision for Versace in September. By December, the brand was bought out by Prada Group—Vitale’s former employer, given his last role as Miu Miu design director—and he exited just a day after the merger was finalized. In February, Pieter Mulier, formerly of Alaïa, was announced as the next creative director.

It’s worth noting Vitale was the first non-Versace to helm the brand, and Donatella did not attend his debut. Her absence was never explained, leaving even more of a mystery to Vitale’s departure.

As soon as it was announced Vitale was leaving, I mourned openly. I visited the SoHo Versace flagship as if I was attending a funeral, aching to get a glimpse of the open casket that was Vitale’s campaign for his one-and-only collection, photographed by Steven Meisel.

Versace, by definition, is splashy and in-your-face. For Donatella, that looked glamorous and aspirational. I previously described her “fierce brand of glam” as “a glittering Dolce Vita complete with super models, super sequins, and super stilettos.”

For Vitale—and Gianni too—Versace felt like more of a reflection. Ostentatious and spectacularly flamboyant, sure, but something that mirrored an existing attitude.

The physical invitation for Vitale’s show instructed guests to “wear something reckless, as though mocking propriety.” The set, the home-turned gallery Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, was a Miami Beach still-life: An unmade bed, empty glasses, an ashtray, and a spilled packed of ibuprofen littered the venue. The bed sheets were Vitale’s own, he told reporters backstage after the show.

The runway served as a transition from the night before to the next sweaty dance floor. Color combinations skewed unapologetically tacky, logo briefs reared their Medusa heads, and ribbed leather vests worn on bare skin reflected the carnal desires of their wearers. It was a collection of excess, Dionysian in nature.

Few have captured similar levels of (complementary) sleaze. Demna took a similar route with his bougie, daddy’s-money Gucci collection, but it didn’t land as organically and brazen as Vitale’s. To me, Demna’s Gucci is too curated to be sleazy. And while controversial, I don’t feel his resort show was as polarizing as Vitale’s one-and-done collection.

Coming out to say you liked Vitale’s Versace felt like that Norman Rockwell painting (you know the one). It was risky, and that doesn’t translate well retail-wise.

According to Prada Group’s Q2 2026 earnings call, sex sells, but clearly not enough. With the appointment of Pieter Mulier, it seems Prada Group is looking for a Tom Ford for Gucci effect—someone to switch up the customer base and boost sales. A better (or at least, more recent) example might be Demna for Gucci, or Matthieu Blazy for Chanel, where sales are up 16%. Mullier’s sleek designs certainly promise commercial success, and while I’ll miss Vitale, I’m excited to see what he does from the brand.

Still, people love an exclusive, so it’s no surprise Vitale’s sudden departure stirred up some retail hype. If I somehow won the lottery overnight, or was named in an unknown rich relative’s will, I would have armfuls of Versace shopping bags too. Alas, neither of those lightning-strike moments happened to me, so I’ll be poring over resale sites as penance.

In the fashion world, you could be in one day and out the next, as Vitale exemplifies. Yet his underdog status has turned his pieces into cheeky if you know, you know moments, and wearing them signals a nod of respect to his brief and bold tenure.

Last week, Marc Jacobs (oh how I love you Marc!) shared a photo of himself in banana-yellow high-rise pants from the Vitale collection. Meanwhile, Harper Bazaar’s Lynette Nylander owns a nasty pair of pumps (and an even nastier matching skirt) featuring Vitale’s Warhol-inspired prints. She wears them together as God (Vitale) intended.

Celebrities outside the fashion bubble—with credit to stylists—have taken to the Vitale’s vision too. Let’s not forget when Julia Roberts soft-launched his designs with custom suiting at the 2025 Venice Film Festival. Her look was so impressionable, Amanda Seyfried tapped their mutual stylist Elizabeth Stewart for the same outfit. “Thanks for sharing @juliaroberts,” she captioned her Instagram post later.

Mind you, this was all before Vitale’s designs debuted on the runway!

As soon as those looks did hit the ground, however, they were running. The day after the show, Addison Rae—styled by fashion genius Dara—appeared in a bejeweled bra and undies for her New York Addison Tour show. Later, she wore a custom metallic dress by Vitale to the Academy Museum Gala.

You can still catch the designs in the spotlight a whole year later. Robyn recently performed in a full look from the runway, while Rina Sawayama and Amy Adams have both stepped out in Vitale’s diamond-studded cocktail dresses. I’m honestly surprised Charli XCX didn’t slip into some Versace leading up to the release of her Music, Fashion, Film album.

All to say, eff the sales! The real fashion freaks (and capital-F Freaks in general) are putting themselves in Vitale’s clothes. Despite his exile, you can’t deny his influence, either. Maybe it’s just me, but I feel like I’ve seen his designs everywhere lately.

Meryll Rogge’s first show for Marni was one of my favorite debuts since Vitale, partly because it seemed his creative direction was alive and well within the collection. His leather daddies got a kitschy makeover while his V-neck knits were pared down in color (and surface area). It was really Rogge’s sequined skirts and funky patterns, however, that made me name her Best Dressed of Milan Fashion Week.

Meanwhile, dressed up in obnoxiously neon patent leather with a contrasting elastic band, Gimaguas’ new Bailarina Pump seems an obvious nod to the designer’s ‘80s-inspired leather pumps with white leather “socks” peeking out. The contemporary brand has also taken note of Vitale’s retro color palette.

If there’s one thing for certain, it’s that the tackiness of the ‘80s is back and bigger than ever: Look at Valentino fall 2026, Marc Jacobs spring 2027, Chloé spring 2026, and Vaquera’s last few collections.

It’s a larger trend and not spearheaded by Vitale specifically—but he was the first one brave enough to go there and go all out. His Versace is gone but never forgotten. I don’t know where he is, or where he’s going, but whatever it is, I’m there (in vintage Versace, of course).

Fortunately, you can still shop a bit of Vitale’s collection on the Versace site. While my favorite piece from the collection—this pop-art pencil skirt—is no longer available, its matching pumps are available in sizes 36.5 and 37. (My size, is that a sign??) This other pop-art skirt is fabulous too.

Gianni’s Versace courses through the veins of Vitale’s, so it’s only right to cite the original texts as well. These vintage high-rise pants in grape jelly-purple, fuchsia, and mint are cousins of the ones shown in the latest collection; try belting them up with this chunky mixed-metal belt.

These milky white leather pumps, these purple satin heels, these studded wooden heels, and these embellished gold pumps instantly channel a sultry strut. See also: this studded vest from Gianni’s fall 1992 collection, which might as well have walked down Vitale’s runway.

The pieces I loved most from Vitale’s collection were blasted over with those pop-art prints. This sheer floral top from Gianni’s reign is great, as is this insane spring 1991 Marilyn Monroe-printed skirt suit. If I were to buy anything though, it’d be this printed asymmetrical hem dress and jacket from Donatella’s spring 2002 collection.

Outside of the Versace hemisphere, there’s this vintage pop-art Balenciaga skirt, this mixed-metal Gimaguas belt, this vintage embellished Chloé vest, this vintage mesh metal JPG top, and this 2004 Balenciaga striped skirt. For the sexy machismo vibes, your best bet is Vaquera: This leather daddy hat, these black leather pumps, this cropped acid-wash denim jacket, and this classic “bra” graphic tee should do the trick.

Want to see if I inevitably cave into those Versace pumps? Follow me on Instagram and TikTok. Looking for more vintage Versace et al? Check out all of my fashion finds here, and if you want an extra $200 in site credit at The Real Real, consign using my partner link. Interested in working together? Reach out here.

Lord, Take Me to Versace's '80s Dream House

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September 28, 2025

A lot is going on at Versace, and it goes beyond maximalist prints and shocking cutouts. Dario Vitale, former design director at Miu Miu, has officially debuted his first runway for the brand—of which he’s the first non-Versace to run.