All the recent chatter about World Cup visitors falling in love with American food, especially fast-food, got me thinking about what we truly love to eat. And about the fact that there’s much more to love than what the fast-food chains are serving up. An exploration of our historical favorites is a reminder that our country isn’t a monolith, that our tastes and cuisines have historically been tied to the places we live and the foods available there, and that what is beloved in Iowa or Indiana is very different from the favorites to be found in Maine or Mississippi. There is no better microcosm of that idea than our preferences in sandwiches. So, here’s a look at some of America’s regional favorites:
THE PO’ BOY—Louisiana. Supposedly created by a sympathetic restaurateur to feed the “poor boys” of the streetcar union who were on strike in 1929, this iconic New Orleans sandwich is made on French bread with shredded lettuce, remoulade sauce, and any one of a wide range of proteins, from “debris,” the extra bits and gravy from a pan of roast beef to deep fried oysters or shrimp.
PHILLY CHEESE STEAK—Philadelphia. Introduced in the 1930s by brothers Pat and Harry Olivieri, who ran a hot dog cart, it’s thin sliced ribeye (often frozen first to aid in slicing) on a crusty roll, topped with cheese, usually Cheese Whiz, Cooper Sharp or provolone, often with opinions and/or peppers added. Pat Olivieri went on to open Pat’s King of Steaks on Passyunk Avenue in South Philadelphia. Pat’s rivalry with competitor Geno’s Steaks right across the street is legendary.
LOBSTER ROLL—New England. Best known as served in Maine, chunks of cold lobster meat mixed with just a touch of mayo, seerved in New England style split top hot dog bun which has been grilled with butter. There’s also the Connecticut version, served warm with butter instead of mayo.
HOT BROWN—Kentucky. A broiled, open faced turkey sandwich with bacon and Mornay sauce, this one was created at Louisville’s historic Brown Hotel by Chef Fred Schmidt in 1926 as an alternative to the traditional ham and eggs as a late-night snack for folks who had attended the hotel’s famous late-night dances.
ITALIAN BEEF—Chicago. This one’s been vaulted into the national consciousness thanks to the TV Show The Bear about an Italian Beef stand turned fine dining restaurant. The sandwich is thin sliced roast beef in a spicy gravy piled on a hero roll and topped with a relish mix called giardiniera.
PIMENTO CHEESE SANDWICH—Throughout the south. It’s perhaps best known these days as the iconic concession sandwich served at the Master’s Golf Tournament, where it is still sold for $1.50. This southern classic is a combination of cheddar cheese, mayonnaise, and diced pimento peppers served on basic white bread.
PASTRAMI ON RYE – New York. Of course, this one’s available all across the country but it’s quintessentially New York, first served up there in 1888 by butcher and Lithuanian immigrant Sussman Volk. It’s now inextricably linked to Katz’s Deli on the lower east side, where pastrami on Rye with mustard is their classic offering. And get this—in its earliest incarnation in Romania, Pastrami was made not from beef brisket, but from goose.
MAID RITE – Iowa. Created in 1926 by Fred Angell, a butcher in Muscatine, Iowa, this is sort of a deconstructed hamburger or a sloppy joe without the sauce. Crumbled ground beef is cooked with beef broth, onions and Worcestershire sauce, topped with mustard, pickles, and raw onions and served up on a steamed bun.
That’s just a sampling of regional favorites. But if you want to eat your way across the country, it’s a good start.
On the next Culinary Characters Unlocked podcast dropping tomorrow, Chef Renee Erickson who built a restaurant empire in Seattle gets brutally candid about the challenges facing restaurateurs today. Available wherever you get your podcasts:
YOUTUBE
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT4Zovt2BsSuh98FvyEwcFA
APPLE PODCASTS
SPOTIFY
AMAZON MUSIC
https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/28353fc5-11df-4a3e-8481-f989eb4aeaab/culinary-characters-unlocked
PODBEAN
https://www.podbean.com/podcast-detail/k2n6g-31b0b8/Culinary-Characters-Unlocked-Podcast
Eat well,
David
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